Independents

It feels like a lot of new releases all look the same. Semi-openworked, with amazing hand finishing. But no real focus on engineering/complications? Max Busser said something along these lines earlier this year in an interview and I think he's totally rig... 

I exchanged a couple of emails yesterday with Sarpaneva, thanking him for executing my watch immaculately well, and pointing out that I find it increasingly difficult to discover and recognize true originality and artistry in high horology.... Perhaps it'... 

I am a layman in terms of independent brands and I stopped following them as intently over the past few years. Many new entrants, most are beautiful but they seem to share a common aesthetic feel. To me they are like certain artwork: happy to admire them ... 

Akrivia AKs, Krayon Everywhere and Anywhere, Sylvain Pinaud monopusher chronograph, Petermann Bedat 2941 and 1967, Renaud Tixier DRT Tempus Fugit and Monday, Dann Phimphrachanh Seconde Vive, Remy Cools Souscription Tourbillon and Tourbillon Atelier, Theo ... 

He was thinking on a grander scale that 10-20 offerings, there have been hundreds of releases that, more or less, look alike or are based on the same fundamentals yet demand exceptional price premiums when you compare to equivalents from the big Maisons..... 

new independents having no real focus on engineering/complications, then went on to praise Max for his chronograph and PC. I've listed many young independents with complications which Patek categorizes as grand complications.

I know this is a passionate subject but can we have this conversation whilst remaining civil with each other.

But for example Akrivia AKs and Berneron rely on third party movements Sylvain - simple module on top of unitas movement Similar with Petermann Bedat , base Valjoux 13 The most impressive watch on the list with movement developed in house is Krayon anywhe... 

are transitioning to fully in-house movements. They are still young and just started their career not long ago. Grant them time to blossom and develop, and judge them when they have their complete portfolios in 10-20 years' time.

I am getting a bit tired of this discussion but one last time - the way the Swiss (and English) watch industry always worked was - when you need a complication you go to a specialist. Patek went to AP when they wanted to make the early pocket watch repeat... 

was initially his project for the Meilleur Ouvrier de France competition. It was not meant to be sold as is, but to demonstrate his capacities around creating a chronograph and finishing. Then, people started to ask him about buying it.

I have huge respect for him as a watchmaker. My general point was that given the R&D required, designing an integrated chronograph from scratch is an impossible task for an independent. Look at even AP and how long it took them to move to in-house chronog... 

…several don’t meet any real innovation threshold to me. Now perhaps there is not that much room left to roam and so real innovation will be scarce. Krayon is one I’ve been looking at a lot this past year. There is something new I think. But another dead ... 

to attack them as a group, simply because they highly hand-polished their watches. There have been some undertones here especially on interior angles. These watchmakers are unique individuals and they use their own scarce resources to produce their watche... 

I admit i am looking nowadays more to older indie (or some bigger brands) models then new releases. I still love the look and charming style and designs from lets say a decade (or two) ago . Ofcourse some still make incredible and interesting watches whic... 

Approximately two decades ago, we were in a golden era of independent watch design and manufacture. In my opinion this era began with Vianney Halter and the Antiqua in 1998, which split the traditional perpetual calendar complication into separate subdial... 

I especially have noticed a lot of new releases from smaller indeps which architecturally combine a small off-center dial and a balance assembly on the dial side. Literally, dozens of variations of the same concept. This dilutes the importance of each new... 

As you mention MB&F has been incredibly innovative in their collaborations with Stephen McDonnell, Remi Maillat of Krayon designed high complications at Cartier, Romain Gauthier is an engineer. Such examples are few and far between. Most independents have... 

…this is not a good state to have. While more tenured collectors will have this “fatigue”, I think new collectors and speculators and folks with overblown FOMO will prop up much of these order books for several years. Now, a contradiction to the potential... 

While I see the point that similar designs appear I also have noticed some original ones. To each his own and let the market play out. Singer is a brand that produces some intriguing watches, nothing like the style described in the original post. The watc... 

A product that only exists in an unfinished Prototype form at best and it’s been pre-sold as it might work, no matter how hard it is pushed by speculators, who follow Journe’s strategy, to me has zero value. The benchmark for me, is at least 20 years in t... 

Complicated watches fell out of fashion, maybe 5 to 10 years ago. Or the flood of people that discovered watches during COVID naturally prefer simple watches over perpetual calendars. The environment is quite different from the early 2000s too. Independen...