quattro
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20911
Holy Trinity "hooded" lugs
Typical lugs consist of two lugs adjacent to each other.
In contrast, "hooded" (or "shrouded") lugs consist of a single horizontal bar that secures the case to the strap.
What could be called "semi-hooded" lugs consist of two regular adjacent lugs linked by an intermediate hooded section.
And what I propose to call "articulated hooded" lugs consist of a two-part structure, one belonging to the case, the other to the strap.
From the late 1930s to the 1950s, Patek Philippe and, to a lesser extent, Vacheron Constantin have produced an incredible variety of those lugs. And I just added some Audemars Piguet, which wasn't very much involved in this lug design, for the sake of the "holy trinity".
This (far too long) post (I know and apologise) is an ode to endless creativity, fantasy & joyful exuberance...
Enjoy!
A/ PATEK PHILIPPE
1/ HOODED LUGS
Ref. 1585
credit: onbehalf
Ref. 575
credit: fabsuisse vintage watches
Ref. 1438
credit: kibble watches & goldammer
Ref. 1408
credit: onbehalf
Ref. 574
credit: onbehalf
Ref. 544
credit: Matthew Bain
Ref. 482
credit: onbehalf
Ref. 144
credit: onbehalf
2/ SEMI-HOODED LUGS
Ref. 539
credit: @johnbehalf & onbehalf
Ref. 540
credit: @johnbehalf & onbehalf
Ref. 1493
credit: onbehalf
Ref. 136
credit: onbehalf
B/ VACHERON CONSTANTIN
1/ HOODED LUGS
Unkown ref. from 1938
credit: classic 55
Ref. 4009
credit: hodinkee
Unknown two-tone reference from 1948
credit: connoisseur of time
Unknown reference from 1946
credit: connoisseur of time
2/ "ARTICULATED" HOODED LUGS
Ref. 4083
credit: phillips & antiquorum
Unknown ref. from the 1930s
credit: goldammer
Ref. 4075
credit: @mimandcroket & antiquorum
C/ AUDEMARS PIGUET
World’s Fair watch from 1938 (part of Michael Friedman’s collection since 2003)
credit: revolution
Unknown ref. from 1938
credit: phillips
Unknown reference from 1940
credit: revolution
Holy Trinity "hooded" lugs
Typical lugs consist of two lugs adjacent to each other. In contrast, " hooded " (or "shrouded") lugs consist of a single horizontal bar that secures the case to the strap. What could be called " semi-hooded " lugs consist of two regular adjacent lugs lin...
Thank you so much!
I think I could have a personal soft spot for the very special and charming ref. 482...
WOW!!! Many thanks Emmanuel for taking the reins and putting together this extensive photographic, beautifully done essay on hooded lugs!
And to have put it together at light warp speed is truly amazing! Again, thank you! Best, Patekova
Thank you so much!
Digging into these references and trying to differentiate the types of hooded lugs was a real pleasure. Here are too more, found after posting (but exhaustivity is clearly impossible here). Best, Emmanuel PP Ref. 1577 VC unknown ref. credit: romain rea ...
Another wow!
So many beautiful things that I can't quite collect my thoughts. This creativity is not only by these companies of course. I have seen Omegas and Longines among others with great art deco designs. Even companies that are no longer with us had some strikin...
You are completely right:
IWC and Rolex could also be mentioned and certainly many others. But Patek Philippe seems to have gone particularly far in this design direction. Thanks a lot for the kind words.
Love these surveys. You must have a great archive.
Two comments The ref 574 is the smaller version of the top hat ref 1450 That ref 1436 from Kibble has a horrible redial Love that you have included AP and VC models for comparison Thanks again ' Julian
Thank you so much, Julian.
You are absolutely right about the 574: here are some photos of the bigger 1450. As for the 1438, yes, they say on their website that it’s an “early refinished dial”… I guess I shouldn’t have included it. Best, Emmanuel Ref. 1450 credit: onbehalf ...
