Patek Philippe

After the discussion with Shak, I was intrigued enough to do research. The military wristwatches originated in WW1. Most were issued to officers, though artillery NCOs and signallers must have also had their wristwatches. 

In addition, many affluent Englishmen enlisted as lowly privates. They brought their own wristwatches with them.

Thanks to David Boettcher for his research on the British Army and the photos.

www.vintagewatchstraps.com 

 
The basic requirement for a military watch is legibility. Typically, they (like the original pilots watch) had large numerals and plain faces. IN WW1, they often had wire lugs and 'unbreakable' crystals. Eventually, hands and markers were luminous.

At the beginning of WW1, there was a vast assortment of wristwatches as the servicemen bought their own watches. Eventually, the government issued watches to servicemen. 

Covers were tried for the dial, but were found to be impractical. Eventually, shatterproof 'crystals' were used, and the dial cover became obsolete. Covers were also tried for the rear of the case. But, it was found that screw cases were better. For protection from the environment 

Here's a review of the Patek Officers Watches (3960 and 5053) by Stephan. He has a purist POV. Rejects the date window at 6 o'clock for the 5053. Calls the 5153's guilloche dial “bizarre”.

grail-watch.com 

 
Interestingly, the railway track on the 3960 dates from the Victorian age of railroads. How traditional do you want to be?

Let's be clear. None of Patek's Officers Watches are military watches. They lack the luminous hands, nor do they have the water resistance (etc) that we expect today. Nor the wire lugs for NATO-style straps. In addition, military watches do not have crystal backs.

However, I would a argue that they (Patek Officers Watches) represent a sporty version of the gentlemen watch. And, the 5153 as the aesthetically luxury version. 

Yes, it is a modern design. But, lets not forget that sunburst patterns were common in the art deco period. There's nothing wrong with Patek being three generations behind the present.

Hope this helps.

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