Seiko

Review - Tribute to 62GS - Part 2 : Review of the SBGR095

 

GRAND SEIKO HISTORICAL COLLECTION – Tribute to 62GS, SBGR095 - Part 2 : SBGR095 review

See Part 1 : Historic models : www.watchprosite.com /

1. New 62GS collection

In 2015 Seiko celebrated the 55^th anniversary of Grand Seiko. After the re-issue of the 1967 44GS in 2013, Seiko decided to re-issue its first ever automatic watch in the GS collection, the 62GS.

The 62GS collection features eight references. Four are re-creations of the 1967 original model with an automatic caliber and four are modern re-interpretations featuring Grand Seiko’s most advanced movements, including Spring Drive. All are limited editions.

 1.1. Re-creation models

Re-creation models are driven by the 9S65 caliber. One model is in steel with a silver dial and the other ones are in different shades of 18K gold with a cream dial.

• SBGR095, Stainless steel (65.8g), 600 pcs worldwide,

• SBGR091, 18K white gold (96.0g), 100 pcs worldwide,

• SBGR092, 18K yellow gold (95.0g), 100 pcs worldwide,

• SBGR094, 18K rose gold (93.0g), 100 pcs worldwide.

SBGR095, SBGR091, SBGR092 and SBGR094 - Copyright Seiko Corp.

 

The other common specifications will be explained in the next paragraphs.

 

1.2. Re-interpretations models

Re-interpretation models are driven by Hi-Beat 36,000 9S85 and the Spring Drive calibers.

• SBGH037, Hi-Beat 9S85 caliber, silver dial, stainless steel, 1000 pcs worldwide,

• SBGH039, Hi-Beat 9S85 caliber, brown dial, stainless steel, 700 pcs worldwide,

• SBGA125, Spring Drive 9R65 caliber, cream dial, High-intensity titanium, 1000 pcs worldwide,

• SBGA127, Spring Drive 9R65 caliber, blue dial, High-intensity titanium, 700 pcs worldwide.

 

SBGH037, SBGH039, SBGA125 and SBGA127 - Copyright Seiko Corp.

2. SBGR095 review

2.1. Case

The original 62GS had a multi-sided case, long and razor-edge hands and a bezel-free construction resulting in a wider dial opening.

The tribute to the Original 62GS, SBGR095 maintains all these characteristics in a slightly enlarged case in line with current proportions modern watches.

The SBGR094 case is in stainless steel. Each case facet is polished by only the most skillful and experienced craftsmen. This process is known as Zaratsu, or blade polishing and is made by carefully applying a rotating tin plate against the case at a very precise angle. As I said in my previous reviews, the result is absolutely flawless and it is incredible to watch through a magnifying glass and also a challenge to be pictured!

 The upper case part between the lugs is not polished.

In side view, the middle part seems to be sandwiched between the sapphire crystal and an inverse dome featuring the back.

Personally, I’m very impressed by 2 points:

• The straight and sharp edges of the facets all along the case. I’m definitely a 44GS lover, and I feel the same intense experience with this cut roughly design.

• The junction between the case and the lugs. The lugs are almost flush to the edge of the crystal. Magic !

2.2. The bezel

There is no bezel. The crystal is fixed directly to the case. It’s magnifying the dial overture and the mirrored multi-faceted case.

2.3. The crown

The four re-creation models are the closest to original with its famous off-centered crown recessed and placed at the 4 o’clock position. Originally, this location aimed at emphasizing the fact that the watch was automatic and did not require a winding crown. However, the re-creation models, including SBGR095, hold a manual winding mechanism.

Honestly, when Seiko introduced the new 62GS collection, I was very impressed by the reinterpretation SBGH039 model. Finally, this is the 4 o’clock position of the crown that convinced me that the SBGR095 would  suit me better. And … I’m not disappointed!

The top of the crown has no logo and is slightly sharp. Features:

• Manual winding,
• Quick-change correction for date (1st click),
• Time setting (2nd click with stop second).

2.4. The crystal

The sapphire crystal features anti-reflective coating in order to enhance legibility of the dial, and to reduce reverberation. It is slightly domed on both faces and raised about 1mm above the case. It helps highlight the depth of the dial.

2.5. The Caseback

As Seiko explained on the dedicated 62GS website, “the case back emblem and function indicator layout design are faithfully replicated using raised relief stamping”. However, the seal is not in gold and some prints have been modified.

The SBGR095 back medallion has an engraved Lion like the first 62GS models. This is not the GS medallion that Seiko will adopt in the next 62 GS models and will become the official emblem of the GS collection.

The indications around the seal are:

1. The movement number (9S65-00R0 here) : necessarily different from the original model but still presents,
2. Initial "Water proof" is replaced by "water resist 10bar",
3. Initial "SS" is replaced by "stainless steel",
4. The serial number of the watch has been replaced by several indications:

• Limited edition of 600 pieces,
• "Made in Japan",
• A specification of the magnetic resistance up to 4 800 A/m, not indicated in the original model. This is in agreement with the ISO764:2002 standards.
• The letter "A" as well as the encircled "A4", that are found on the current model, are internal classifications to Seiko.

The SBGR095 case back is screwed, allowing a water resistance of 10 bars and an optimal protection against dust and sweat.

2.6. The dial

The SGBR095 dial is a heritage of the original one, including the color and the printings (for example “Diashock”). Like the original, the color is a superb silver grey with a sunray pattern. The dial is totally flat (one of the characteristics of “The Grammar of the Design” Taro Tanaka designed later).

Its literature consists of five lines in different fonts. “Seiko” and the “GS” logo are made of steel and are applied but slightly embossed compared to the dial. The “Automatic” layout is printed closed to “Seiko”.

The typography “Grand Seiko” and “Diashock” is printed as the tiny “JAPAN 9S65 – 00L0 R 2" at 6 o’clock.

Neither Arabic nor Roman numerals around the dial: The very fine markers representing the minutes are barely noticeable but they reflect on the crystal thickness.

Due to the bezel-free construction, the dial opening is large and the legibility is absolutely amazing.

2.7. Hands and markers

The reference is the original 6245-9000TAD dial, not the 6245-9010TAD. It means that we find again large and flat indexes. Markers are made of steel and applied on the dial. They are a combination of 9 faces totally polished by diamond-cut.

The index at 12 o’clock is doubled.

The indexes are simply magnificent and a delight to contemplate through a magnifying glass.

Hour and minute hands are also made of steel in a three faceted Dauphine shape with a particularly sharp sledge. The almost unnoticeable upper one is polished, whereas the side facets are brushed.

Hands and markers also participate in the perfect readability in all the conditions of light. They both show the perfection of the details and the constancy in the research for the light effects.

2.8. Day aperture

The day aperture is at 3 o’clock. Its bottom seems to be finished in a cream color, and the black letterpress is thin. It is raised by a steel edge, with mirror-polished effect.

On the other hand, there is a quick calendar correction using the crown but the date change is set between 11:30 PM and 0:30 AM.

2.9. The movement

Originally, the original 62GS wasn't a Hi-Beat model. It’s the reason Seiko decided to keep a non Hi-Beat caliber inside the SBGR095. The Hi-beat and Spring drive calibers are dedicated to the re-interpretation models. The movement is the automatic 9S65 movement introduced in 2010 and dedicated to Grand Seiko.

 

 9S65 caliber - Copyright Seiko Corp

The characteristics are:

• 28,800 vph,
• Automatic winding type with manual winding function. This manual winding function was not featured in the original model.
• 72h power reserve,
• 35 jewels,
• Diashock mechanism for Shock System,
• Balance spring made in in "SPRON 610" alloy, giving the timepiece improved shock resistance and anti-magnetism properties,
•  Current GS label: mean daily rate of +5 to -3 seconds. In the specification chart below, Seiko Corps. defines what a GS label mean daily rate of +5 to -3 seconds really means during daily wearing : from -1 second/day to +10 seconds/day.
  

2.10. Band and buckle

The band is made of black alligator, doubled with leather. Scales go hand in hand with the design of the case. I think that Seiko really did an excellent job in terms of taste and coherence. The buckle is a pin buckle of the same metal as the case. It does not bear the inscription Grand Seiko as a lot of limited series but only "SEIKO" in the same police as that of the dial.

2.11. Wearing

The back parts of the watch that are in contact with the skin make way for soft edges. Perfect proportions and irreproachable wrist wear make the 65.8 g of this Grand Seiko very pleasant to wear. I previously said that I fell in love with the SBGR095 cut roughly design. But honestly, I am a bit concerned, as this case seems to be conductive to impacts especially on the edges. Let’s check again in the future!

2.12 Specifications (Seiko Corp.)

REF. SBGR095

Limited Edition: GRAND SEIKO HISTORICAL COLLECTION 62GS

Limited: 600 pcs

Driving system: Automatic with manual winding mechanism

Caliber No.: 9S65

Case: Stainless steel

Glass: High definition box-shaped sapphire crystal

Coating: Anti-reflection coating on inner surface

Lumibright: -

Accuracy:

+5 to -3 seconds per day (under a static use); This accuracy is the result of measuring the loss/gain of the time for seventeen days before the inside movements of the watch are put in the case. The measurement has been done in the factory where temperatures or position of the movements are controlled. When the watch is actually worn, the accuracy should be from -1 second/day to +10 seconds/day (-1 second/day to +8 seconds/day for Cal.9S85, 9S86).

Water resistance: 10 bar

Magnetic resistance: 4800 A/m (60 gauss)

Weight: 65.8 g

Case size: Diameter 37.6mm Thickness 12.9mm

Remarks:

• Screw back
• Jewels: 35
• Power reserve: Over 72 hours

Hieraklion
Paris, France, 10/31/2016