Vacheron Constantin

Review: Vacheron Constantin Quai de l'Ile Date Self-Winding

 

It has now been three years since the Quai de l’Ile was launched in the North American market. The line was debuted at SIHH 2008 and was ready for limited distribution that autumn. I wrote a detailed review of the titanium Quai de l’Ile Day-Date-Power Reserve in the summer of 2009:

vacheron.watchprosite.com

I still stand by my conclusions from that review, principally that I find people have a love-hate relationship with the design.

Since that review, Vacheron Constantin has continued to show its commitment to the Quai de l’Ile by developing a special edition tantalum and palladium 86050 for the Only Watch auction in 2009,

and then following it up with a limited edition model with a slightly different configuration of the tantalum and palladium case components:


And late last year Vacheron Constantin added a new complication to the Quai de l’Ile line, debuting their annual calendar complication in an enlarged 43 mm Quai de l’Ile case:


One other obvious move was to dramatically change the look by creating solid dials. The Quai de l’Ile Annual Calendar watch only has solid dial options, and those options are also now available on with both the Date and the Day-Date-Power Reserve models.


I think Vacheron Constantin was unlucky with the timing of the launch of the Quai de l’Ile, as the US market, the first to receive the Quai de l’Ile, went through wrenching upheaval with the collapse of the financial and housing sectors and the associated recession, tempering people’s taste for adventurous (expensive) designs, resulting in a general movement to more conservative timepieces.


Making a case for the Quai de l’Ile

The Quai de l’Ile was presented with a lot of marketing hype about the customization of the case, with the ability to mix metals for the bezel, lugs, flanks, case, and crown. This aspect of the design never appealed to me. What did appeal to me was the idea that damaged case parts could be replaced, as there comes a point where to polish out scratches or dings would deform the elegant lines of that are characteristic and essential to the Quai de l’Ile design.


In wearing the watch on a more permanent basis than the review watch I tested in 2009, I have noticed an effect that appeals to me. The round dial gives the effect of a round watch. Excluding the lugs, the case has a definite cushion shape. But taking the lugs into account, the watch takes on the feel of a tonneau design.


I quite enjoy the chameleonic effect of shifting between those three frames of reference in my perception of the design.

My review in 2009 was of the titanium case, and I am a little torn between appreciating Vacheron Constantin’s use of an industrial metal for it’s most adventurous horological design and appreciating the mix of perfectly executed satin and polished finishes on the palladium and rose gold pieces. The polished line of the overhang along the flanks is a beautiful touch:


and let’s face it: I like shiny, pretty things!


It is no secret that China is one of the most important markets for Vacheron Constantin (among other brands). What is less well known is that palladium is not a desirable metal to the Chinese consumer, not being initially thought of as a precious metal. Notice that the Quai de l’Ile Annual Calendar is made in white gold rather than in palladium.


My One Gripe

The Quai de l’Ile is an inspired design. I love having it and I think that I will enjoy it for years to come. What I don’t love are the straps with which Vacheron Constantin partners the case. The first problem is that the regular length strap is short by about 15 mm. It leaves no tail on a standard sized wrist like mine. This is the first watch for which I have had to order a long strap.

And the long strap I am getting is not the shiny black crocodile that Vacheron Constantin delivers with the watch, but rather the special gray crocodile strap that came with the tantalum Quai de l’Ile. I know I am not the first person to make this switch. I just don’t think that glossy straps suit the Quai de l’Ile. My secret desire is for Vacheron Constantin to supply a number of strap options for the line, and having this be another way that collectors can customize the Quai de l’Ile to suit their taste, much like Panerai collectors do for their beloved PAM’s.

Straps matter, and across the board, Vacheron Constantin is not showing the Quai de l’Ile to its best effect with the stock selection.



The Caliber 2460

For the past ten years Vacheron Constantin has done a brilliant job in becoming a true manufacture, designing movements for the exclusive use in its watches. The caliber 2460 used in the Quai de l’Ile Date proudly bears the Geneva Hallmark, and exhibits all the fine finishing that is required to earn that distinguished honor, from polished screw heads that have beveled edges, to wheels that have bevels spokes (on both sides) and circular grain finish, to the high polished stud that holds the terminal point of the hairspring among other technical criteria.



For the past six years the family of 24** self winding watches have been providing reliable timekeeping in a range of watches for Vacheron Constantin. It has been a good base for complicated watches

I’m a Purist

The biggest choice collectors will make when picking a Quai de l’Ile Date or Day-Date-Power Reserve will be to choose between the sapphire dial and the solid dial.  (With the annual calendar models there is only the solid dial, though with a choice between a silver or ruthenium finish). Being a Purist I feel called to the original concept of the Quai de l’Ile, and to me the sapphire dial is integral to the effect of the watch.

With the Day-Date-Power Reserve watches, the sapphire dial gives the wearer regular glimpses at the spectacular design and finishing of the bridge and wheels under the dial, showcasing the classical watchmaking skills that set Vacheron Constantin above other brands.

The under dial view of the Date model doesn’t give the wearer quite as dramatic an effect as in the Day-Date-Power Reserve watch, due to the depth of the movement of the latter, but the top plate is beautifully finished with circular Geneva waves (where most models using Vacheron Constantin’s in-house automatic calibers in the 24** family will have a perlage finish on that plate). Plus it is neat to see the wheel that quick sets the date, inside the date ring at 4 o’clock, do its work.

Like with many Vacheron Constantin watches, there is a depth to the dial that draws attention, whether it is the “applied” number at 12,3,6,and 9, the ink filled, laser engraved date numbers, or the mini-Maltese crosses and spiral from the security film under the dial.

The ring  of text around the outside of the on the dial of the Quai de l’Ile Date is an English translation from a letter of Francois Constantin to Jaques-Barthelemy Vacheron, “With your able assistance, I promise you that we will make as much from watchmaking as all the commercial travelers together.... I assure you that we will be strong: our watchmaking is highly esteemed here, by continuing to do better if possible and that is always possible."  I have always liked the “Do better if possible and that is always possible” motto, and feel that Vacheron Constantin still lives by it to this day.

As for the solid dial Quai de l’Ile, I like the fact that Vacheron Constantin retained the sapphire ring highlighting all 31 days and display is by the same paddle that highlights the date. I miss that nod to the original conception in the Day-Date-Power Reserve models, and would rather seek out a Jubile 1755 for that complication. Despite my distinct preference for the sapphire dial, I have no doubt that these solid dial models will prove to be more popular than the sapphire dial ones going forward.


Making it Mine

 The Quai de l’Ile is an expensive watch, and like the watches in the Historiques collection, comes at a material premium to watches that use the same or similar movements in the Patrimony collection, the solid core of Vacheron Constantin’s production. It is easy to make the case that those Patrimony watches are a better value. But sometimes you just want a watch.

I’m at a point in my collecting where I am highly selective with what I will purchase for myself. I have been thinking about the Quai de l’Ile for three years now. It’s been a watch I have wanted from the beginning, but couldn’t make mine for various reasons until recently.

In the context of my collection, it complements my Patrimony Contemporaine. The Patrimony is simple, smooth, elegant, and classically beautiful. The Quai de l’Ile has a complicated design, with a mix of angles and curves, bold, but still beautiful. The Quai de l’Ile is certainly good on my wrist:


And it puts a smile on my face.

Bill Lind
VC Forum Moderator

I'm always happy to talk about watches! Please send me a PM if you have feedback or questions about this review.