-I dont think there's a quality difference between Roth-era and now. At both times, the company was owned by Swatch.
-Would strongly consider some of the amazing new Breguet's with tourbillons. They are a VERY good value too. Some have calendars and are a bit more than this, but not by a crazy amount.
-The service costs last I checked with Breguet were crazy reasonable. Like ~$800 for my time only tradition. Not the retrograde, but the normal time only.