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I love the 5496P. There… I’ve said it. This watch is one of my absolute favorites and why not? It is a grand complication retrograde perpetual calendar
moon phase watch, with raised pink gold markers, a perfect (IMHO) size at 40 mm, thin enough to be comfortable on a small wrist (mine), self winding, has an extra solid platinum caseback, is in a classic style Calatrava case and is simply (IMHO) beautiful. So what is there not to love about this watch?
It is a total mystery to me why I seem to be in a very small minority of Patek collectors who actual like this watch. Do I think one day it will become much loved and thought of as being beautiful ((like 5020P) which somehow went from ugly duckling to majestic swan? I don’t expect that to happen, although I have been wrong before.
So I am curious to know, among those relative few who like this watch, what exactly appeals to you about it?
I am even more curious to know among these who do not like this watch, what about it is unappealing? Please do not hesitate to comment negatively. My feelings will not be hurt. From an academic standpoint, I will appreciate your help in trying to understand its lack of popularity.
Looking forward to reading your thoughts.
Best, Patekova .
As you know, I’m in the 5496P lovers camp too.
I tried it on a couple of years ago and I found its proportions pretty much perfect. The case is simple and beautiful, the dial very well structured and legible as compared to classic PC dial layouts. My favorite version is the one with the honey-gold dial (by a huge margin), the white dial with WG markers comes second and yours third (sorry 😉). Best, V.
Thank you Volker for your reply and your honest assessment of the 3 dial variations. The honey-gold color is an unusual choice by Patek and very attractive!
Hi 👋 Patekova, this PC with retrograde date IMO is a
gem !
Given the amount of functions, the dial is clean (given the apertures) and the baton hour markers convey a classic Calatrava look 👀! 💪
To me, this reference is under-appreciated because PC as a group has gotten less attention than sports watches in the past decade or so. Same goes for other other lines such as ellipse and Calatrava. Perhaps there is a “fashion” element in Horology as well ? If so, it will become “hip” and cool 😎 again in the future ! The issue is then how far out in the future 😉
BTW, love the 3D effect of the applied numerals for the dates👍
Gordon, I appreciate your detailed analysis. Certain watches contrary to the focus on “sport” models have done extremely well. I
am thinking 3970, 5004 and 5970 all of which add the chronograph function to the PC.
Great observation Patekova ! Perhaps if your 5496P
has chronographs function then its popularity will go through the roof !
Patekova, as someone who once seriously considered purchasing the 5496p-015, I'll give you my honest opinion (why haven't I bought it yet?).I wanted to add a watch with a retrograde function to my collection.
I wanted to add a watch with a retrograde function to my collection. The far right wing was this 5496p-015. The reason is that it is made of platinum and has a three-dimensional date, and the gold (J?) hands on the silver dial are very cool.
I've encountered other iterations of the same 5496, but I haven't had the opportunity to actually see it (-015) for a long time, but a year ago I picked up this model for the first time at a shop.
My first impression at that time was (I was a little worried) that the design process of the moon phase window circle felt strange.I think PP himself was also confused about this matter.
IMHO I think it is desirable that the moon phase small circle should be a complete circle with either a 24-hour display, second hand, date, or chrono hand.
Otherwise, there may be a way to fill in the gaps with stars like #4947 for women. 5373 and 6002 are exceptional．this is the only reason for me
And of course, I'm pretty sure this has a lot of potential for the 5020P in the future. After writing this far, I began to wonder if I should buy it (^^)/
Additional supplement. Like the 6002 case, it makes sense to me if a slightly larger circle line is drawn around the circumference of the semicircular moon phase.
Thanks Shun for all your comments and reflections. As I recall in Patek’s description of the dial the gold markers were described as pink or rose.
They do look to me more yellow than purely rose or pink. Maybe a combination? Of the standard retrogrades, 5050/5059/5159 and 5496 my clear favorite is 5496. My all time favorite retrograde is 5016 but that is a MUCH more expensive watch. Also I love 5160G in white gold with the engraved case. Also much more expensive. I bought this 5020 P many years ago. They have come down to earth a bit since their spectacular rise but still quite expensive. (There is at least one 5020 P black Breguet dial out there somewhere born that way). 5496 while expensive is a relative “bargain” IMHO, but I will be surprised (and delighted) if it becomes coveted. Who knows what the future will bring? I would have liked something written in the moon register to create balance with the top of the dial, eg “retrograde”, but that said I am very happy with it as is. Best, Patekova
I love this specific reference......
....and what you did with the strap! Is it PP? If so, which color is that?
This champagne tan strap matches the R gold indexes and hands, so I think it's a good choice.
Thanks. Tried a shiny shiny Royal blue recently. Very sharp but I thought it overwhelmed the innate beauty of the watch
Love 5496!
I’m quite drawn to the brown/honey dial version the most… just a beautiful reference:
Not sure why it seems to underloved but so is the 5140 imo… the older 3940 and 3970 seem to be more popular but believe the vintage crowd has different preferences… so suppose have to wait until these are considered neo-vintage even
)
Not sure why it seems to underloved but so is the 5140 imo… the older 3940 and 3970 seem to be more popular but believe the vintage crowd has different preferences… so suppose have to wait until these are considered neo-vintage even
)
The honey version is very appealing. Had a chance to buy a pre owned sealed one at a ridiculously low price, but better sense prevailed and I passed.
Preferred what I already had.
Yes I passed as well…
It competes in quite a tough space imo, there are lots of appealing alternatives. But what I do like about this one is the center seconds on a perp… I used to have a 5140 but missed seconds hand too much…
Very much agree with you about the center seconds hand. When looking at a watch I like to seem continuous movement of some kind.
Eg a small seconds or better yet the larger sweep seconds. Or at least the possibility of continuous movement such as a chrono where the center chronograph hand can be run continuously as a seconds hand without harming the movement.