Patek Philippe

I attended a seminar sponsored by Patek Philippe Japan and Chronos Japan at The Hour Glass Ginza where the well known watch journalist of Japan, Mr. Hirota, gave the audience some enlightenment of how PP's annual calendars are different and thus better in certain aspects.  Maybe you, PP experts. already know of these, but I thought it would be good to share what I learned in case you want to deepen your admiration for PP. 

In total, more than 130 Patek gathered at THG, and it is not everyday event to see so many Patek (new ones) at one place, so I want to share with you some wonderful pieces as well later.

There has been a series of topics why we love Patek.  And here is sort of related - why Patek is good, practical and long lasting love for us, discussed from the angle of its annual calendars, and the beauty of the case/ dial.

5396

1. Base caliber's strength

There are two camps in the torque of the main spring - so-called "practical" calibers tend to release stronger torque for the potential higher accuracy when worn, while so-called "high-end" calibers tend to release less torque for the durability of each parts.  This is not the debate of good or bad - just each camp has been expected of different things.  Now, PP has been consistently making calibers with relatively "strong" torque release, but not strong enough to give stress to the parts to be worn too quick, but not weak enough to affect the accuracy when worn, since the time of 12-120, in 40s.  The latest 31-260 REG QA, for example, tries to achieve the goal of higher frequency and longer power reserve, while reducing the friction stress for the parts by using Silinvar (R) in escapement.  This strength of the base caliber makes it possible to put on other complication modules flexibly.

5146

2. PP's Annual Calendar

Most Annual Calendar movements uses its Perpetual brother movement, which tend to use a big "leverage" in its mechanism (to forward 3 days at one time).  Now for PP it was logical to take away this big "leverage" by giving up February.  In a nutshell, they do it with several wheels instead of big lever that occupies big space.
The pros for this approach is of course the less space for the mechanism and gives flexibility to modification and variation.  The cons are increased number of parts and thus higher price, and the more parts, the more potential for the parts to be worn out quick - PP responded to this problem by mirror-polishing the wheel, tooth, and cog to reduce friction.  As a result, the increased number of the wheels does not affect much to the overall performance of the caliber.  The oscillation angle is reduced by only up to 10 degrees at most.  This approach is not easy or cost effective and therefore many other brands do not take this approach and just modifies the perpetual calendar mechanism.

Wheel train -> Day (moon) disc -> Month wheel -> Date wheel -> 24 hours indicator

The wheel mechanism for 30-day month and 31-day month.  Much simpler and smaller than the leverage mechanism.

Actual photo.

5205

Now, why so beautiful?

1. Case

Patek cases are mostly made by forging, not cutting.  Rolex, Breitling, and Panerai are other brands who use forging for the case.  Cutting is, in short, cheaper as it doesn't need to make the molder, but at the molecule level it is still "loose" and wouldn't easily be made flat mirror-looking.  Most brands do use forging at some point, but Patek uses forging (except for SS case) almost all the way for wide variety of shape of the cases.  Rolex and Breitling, the shape of the case are relatively easy for forging and not cost as much.  Patek is really standing out in this endeavor.  See your face reflected on the side of Patek case, you wouldn't see much distortion.  (Of course there is always exceptions - very, very good one made with cutting is Laurent Ferrier, but it takes lots of talent and time to achieve that level, meaning, not cheap at all).

You wouldn't see much distortion (relatively speaking) in your face reflecting on the side or on the top of the lug,


2. Dial

Printing (e.g. logo) and painting are relatively thin, but take a long time for drying.  Patek dial is very distinctive compared with other brands - very thin painting, but very vivid.  Must be some secret in the process.  As for the logo or index painting, this white logo is very thinly painted but somehow it doesn't show the hint of the dial color.  They paint thinly THREE times.  The examples of Nautilus show the vivid painting but thin enough to show the base metal brush pattern.

The painting on this Nautilus dial is so thin that the unique pattern (brushed metal) on the base shows.

Conclusion (sort of): There is no “perfect watch” in the world, and there are of course weaknesses of Patek, as with any brand. But in total, Patek has less weakness in making watches with the aim to make it last long and spare no expense or labor to make look better, and that is why it is loved and cherished for a long, long time.

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Now, on to other pieces - novelties and new pieces.

Very, very beautiful for ladies.

Buguette buckle.

Obviously, not for me....

My favorite

39.5mm.  Very non-flashy, non-busy dial, and thin (for perpetual), in PT.  My kinda watch

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Special thanks: Patek Philippe Japan - Mr. Nagano, Ms. Otsuka, Mr. Kugaya
                             Chronos Japan - Mr. Matsuzaki, Mr. Hirota, Mr. Suzuki
                             The Hour Glass Ginza - Mr. Momoi and all the staff...

Thanks for reading.

Best,
Ken

This message has been edited by Dje on 2011-10-04 08:36:34 This message has been edited by Dje on 2011-10-06 10:57:28

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Thank you for sharing. No doubt patek has many strengths in the watch making, that's why we love them so much. Cheers

A nice reminder about Pateks legendary annual calenders.

cheers

fernando

and thanks for going through the mechanics of the annual calendar mechanism.  Truly there are many reasons to love our PPs, both inside and out

as Lange has shown on this subject again ;-) !

But  certainly, a true annual calendar from Patek is a must have in any serious collection.

Really lovely, lovely watches!

In your shown list: the WG 5396 for me, please.


Many thanks for a great post.

Regards

Moritz

It was an interesting presentation by Patek. This complication was really "popularized" by Patek and we are able to find it now in several brands like Lange or Zenith, even Omega.

A sort of true speciality coming from Patek.

Amongst the Annual Calendars, my fav is without any doubt the 5205. I love it!



But I don't share your point of view about the Perpetual Calendar 5496P.

I find its dial unbalanced (the empty space at the bottom is too large) and I don't like to see the LY window cutting the date scale.



Anyway, it is a matter of taste!

Again, thanks a lot for your report!

Fx

Love the new Ladies WT. Looks amazing on wrist shot.

I think the metal bracelet on the 5146 makes all the difference - a real beauty.  I only wish Patek allowed this as an option on more models.  Thanks for the great report.

I really appreciate this kind of balanced report, discussing all the issues -good and not so good. It does not read read like a Patek Love Fest. Perhaps someday we will have a thread on discussing what we dont like about Pateks - i.e. constructive criticism. Cheers. Jim

 

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I try to add some additional information with my poor English. I hope you’ll understand and enjoy.

Though I’m not a Patek admire and sometimes critical to their productions (have written in Chronos Japan), still Patek makes excellent watches and furthermore, quality is improving year by year.

As to annual calendars, I have not phased "leverage type" mechanism cause of its complexity. But Lange annual might be a great exception, thanks to large (for me, too large) leverage mechanism, the watch can carry instantaneous calendar.  If without instantaneous changing, leverage system means nothing for normal annual calendars. But I say, I personally do not value a base movement of Lange annual.

I've estimated that MIH is the best annual calendar, if you can bear its masculine size. Patek, very well constructed and useful, if you can bear its price. Lange, good mechanism but be careful to avoid shock.

HIROTA, Masayuki

it's those seemingly minor details--which your report brings to the fore--that distinguish one brand from the other.  thanks for calling attn to those details--helps me appreciate PP.

As you may remember the AC is one of my favourite complications, as it fit fits most day to day requirements.

KIH,

 

Thanks for the report.

Regarding the thin-ness of the 'paint' on the dials, could they be electroplating with certain salt solutions?

That would achieve as 'thin' a coating or many different hues as you like, according to the current / exposure time / salt recipe.

 

Regards,

MTF

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I'll describe later...

HIROTA This message has been edited by KIH on 2011-10-04 21:11:37

Hirota-san,

 

I appreciate your explanations and await further knowledge.

 

Unfortunately, I am not the famous Dr Thomas Mao 

But we may have met before, when I was a 'salaryman' in Tokyo: 2000 - 2001 and 2004 - 2006.

 

Regards,

MTF

This message has been edited by MTF on 2011-10-04 21:13:50

MTF-san, sorry for that. And thank you for your great article on Chronos Japan.

HIROTA

Again, I am very sorry MTF-san.

 

I did not give detailed explanation in that seminar and I apologize to confuse you all. Now I try to explain about electro plating and some additional process in dial making… I hope do it well….

Now many dial have same making process. The first metal blank is cut as a base plate of dial. Subsequently, surface fabrication is done. Examples are satin (you can see it in Ref. 5396) and wet blast finishing (F.P. Journe prefer to use that). Next process is electro plating. Finally transparent lacquer is sprayed to cover and protect surface.

 

Yes some watchmakers prefer to use lacquer dial. For example, Rolex have adopted black lacquer dial for many sports models. Looks onyx but lacquer painted. In Patek, Ref. 5146 (not all) and Ref. 5139 have excellent lacquer dial. The feature of these dials is having flatter surface because it is painted with thick lacquer and grind with micro paper or wrapping film. I love this kind of  "Wrapped Lacquered Dial", but some may not prefer because it masks subtle nuances on dial. Disadvantage of "Thick" dial, I think.

 

On the other hand, each layers of electro plating is relatively thin comparing to lacquer dial, thus plated dial can show subtle nuances on the dial. But there are many exceptions. Maybe there are two reasons. One is that some makers to give thick layers in electro plating. Yes that maybe good process for common dial which cannot have fine surface fabrication. Cost conscious way.  Second reason is tendency to give thick transparent lacquer. It will give durability on dial, but loose subtle nuances on dial.

 

Fluckiger, dial maker of Patek, always try to remain fine nuances in electro plating dial. Only the makers who have self-assured can do that. Maybe the layers of plating are the same as many dials, but I suppose "pre" plating may differ from others.

 

Tell you the truth, it is just a preference whether you prefer "Thick" or "Thin" dial. But thin plating and transparent painting can show subtle nuances on its ground.　

 

P.S What I said is not always correct. If you find something wrong with my comment, friends, please revise that.

 

HIROTA, Masayuki  

This message has been edited by HIROTA, Masayuki on 2011-10-04 23:11:02

Covering lacquer has been thought to be better to have flatter surface. But Patek try to give relatively rough surface (looks sand blasted) on covering lacquer. The dial seems glossy if you see it squarely.  

But from an angle, you will notice that the surface is changed to matte. Maybe to improve visibility of hands from dial, Patek gives rough covering lacquer in some models. I think that is very wise way and now many dial makers are following to that attempt. Please check the dial of Breitling new Chronomat. 

HIROTA

... and your explanation makes sense to me.  Thank you!

Ken

Hirota-san,

Arigatou-gozaimashita.

The detailed description is very useful for me to understand 'subtle nuances'.

As Hokugo-san said, your English is very good and certainly many quanta ahead of my Japanese! 

 

Shitsurei-shimasu,

MTF

nt

Thank you Ken for this very nice report!  Especially appreciated the detail in the mechanics of the Annual Calendar movement!  

Even layman like me can appreciate.

but I believe that AP and VC and Breguet also use forged casing btw, in most of their range. Please correct me if I am wrong.

Best,

Horo

I'll try to explain the difarences later. Please wait for a while...

HIROTA

Best,

Horo