Comments:
However, unfortunately, the first thing that struck me was how dull and less appealing the printed dial looks compared to the guilloché one on my Chronometro Gondolo (photo taken on another occasion).
It confirmed that owning someday a vintage rectangular Patek Philippe with exploding numerals would be a true dream for me.
A visit to Franck Muller
During my stay in Geneva last February, I visited the Franck Muller boutique.
Unfortunately, it was a disappointing visit for two main reasons:
- First, the printed dials lack the charm of a guilloché dial. I was wearing my Chronometro Gondolo, and the difference was striking.
- Second, the leather straps adorning the watches are of very poor quality and reinforce the impression of watches of modest quality.
Nevertheless, here is an overview of the models I tried on, along with my reactions.
LONG ISLAND MODELS
The rectangular case of the Long Island was the one I most wanted to try on.
Unsurprisingly, the small size (ref. 1000 SC) was the right fit for my wrist.
However, unfortunately, the first thing that struck me was how dull and less appealing the printed dial looks compared to the guilloché one on my Chronometro Gondolo (photo taken on another occasion).
That said, I loved the rectangular shape of the case.
It confirmed that owning someday a vintage rectangular Patek Philippe with exploding numerals would be a true dream for me.
Like, for example, this incredible timepiece from 1913 on display at the Patek Philippe Museum (Inv. P-1134)
I think the watch should be thinner, though.
Next, I tried the Color Dreams model.
And, believe it or not, but I found it appealing in its own way.
Playful, cheerful, even if the printed dial is far from having the quality of a guilloché dial...
And the strap was of awful (very cheap) quality...
For comparison, here is how the large case (model with a date, whose reference I do not know) looks on my wrist.
And the stamped dial was disappointing.
The reference 6850 SC with a platinum rotor didn't feel more appealing to me.
I like my Chronometro Gondolo way more.
And as with the Long Islands, for comparison, here is what the large case looks like on my wrist.
Too large.
And insanely thick.
Best, Emmanuel
Yes, even though it's probably at the limit of what my wrist can reasonably pull off, I really like this case shape.
I think the watch should be thinner, though.
Next, I tried the Color Dreams model.
And, believe it or not, but I found it appealing in its own way.
Playful, cheerful, even if the printed dial is far from having the quality of a guilloché dial...
And the strap was of awful (very cheap) quality...
For comparison, here is how the large case (model with a date, whose reference I do not know) looks on my wrist.
I take this opportunity to say that the official Franck Muller website is very poorly designed and sorely lacks precise data to identify the models.
Simply too large for my wrist.
And also too thick.
Still the large case, but in the Color Dreams version.
So thick! Really much too thick! A real brick!
And the large case one more time, but in the Crazy Hours & Color Dreams version (ref. number?).
I didn't like the Crazy Hours display: too crazy for me, not one I could live with on a daily basis.
Also, aesthetically, I think the mixing of the numerals breaks the harmony of the exploding numbers.
And, again, far too thick for me...
THE CINTRÉE CURVEX
I then tried a few Cintrée Curvex models, but I liked this case shape less: here again the comparison with my Chronometro Gondolo was fatal.
Once again, even the smaller case is too thick.
Simply too large for my wrist.
And also too thick.
Still the large case, but in the Color Dreams version.
So thick! Really much too thick! A real brick!
And the large case one more time, but in the Crazy Hours & Color Dreams version (ref. number?).
I didn't like the Crazy Hours display: too crazy for me, not one I could live with on a daily basis.
Also, aesthetically, I think the mixing of the numerals breaks the harmony of the exploding numbers.
And, again, far too thick for me...
THE CINTRÉE CURVEX
I then tried a few Cintrée Curvex models, but I liked this case shape less: here again the comparison with my Chronometro Gondolo was fatal.
Once again, even the smaller case is too thick.
And the stamped dial was disappointing.
The reference 6850 SC with a platinum rotor didn't feel more appealing to me.
I like my Chronometro Gondolo way more.
And as with the Long Islands, for comparison, here is what the large case looks like on my wrist.
Too large.
And insanely thick.
I delayed writing this post because it recounts a disappointing experience and will likely be tedious for anyone who reads it.
Oh well: at least it's out there now!
Thanks for reading.
Best, Emmanuel
F M
It appears that the greatness has disappeared from this great watch of bygone days. I always wanted a crazy hours but just never got there. I am sorry your visit was less than fulfilling and thank you for you frank review. I am sure you will have better visits. Best to you, Patrick.
Thank you, Patrick.
As far as I can tell from this experience, FM today is clearly a brand which has lost its way, unfortunately…
Best, Emmanuel
Best, Emmanuel
No, there’s no clear information available
and I didn’t want to spend some time digging and searching.
I tend to think that the calibers used are pretty basic.
Best, Emmanuel
I tend to think that the calibers used are pretty basic.
Best, Emmanuel
Early FM is the way to go.
As he lost his way and his brand, FM never recovered. Early models are awesome. I loved my 6850 triple calendar. The dial was quite stunning. I’d certainly look again, but only early ones.
I think you’re completely right:
early is the only way to go. The watches I have been able to try on felt really “cheaply made”. I’m very sorry to have to say such a thing.
Best, Emmanuel
Best, Emmanuel
Thanks very much for these insights!
Very disappointing, indeed!
The website is a joke!
It seems to reflect the whole experience.
I was never a big fan of Frank Muller, but at least the crazy hour model I found inspiring.
Movements, as far as I know from earlier days, is nothing fascinating: rebranded ETA2892 with platinum rotor. it seems for some models they use also an own development but I don’t know for sure, and which models.
Yes, unfortunately,
everything I’ve experienced during this visit felt “cheaply made” (I’m truly sorry to have to say such a thing). The difference between FM and other famous brands whose boutiques are located nearby in Geneva is really important, even shocking I must say…
Best, Emmanuel
Best, Emmanuel
Did you consider contacting him and saying WTF Franck?
I realize that would be confrontational and out of order for you and WPS generally but while I'm being facetious it WOULD be interesting to know what his philosophy is and why collectors appreciate his earlier work more than the current offerings. Of course there are any number of brands that could be asked the same question and the response could very likely be predicted. I guess I'm only ranting about FM because I've always liked the look of the watches and the audacity to proclaim yourself the "Master of Complications". I did have the opportunity to try on a tonneau shaped FM once and I was also struck by how large and chunky it seemed. Even though I was predisposed to like it it turned out I didn't.
Yes, a little rant would be justified,
but I don't think I will ever meet the man and I assume his choices are deliberate.
Best, Emmanuel
Best, Emmanuel
I used to love his watches, but now they seem kind of dated to me. I guess due to the oversized cases and in your face numbers.
Not sure how never people in the hobby feel.
The design is more than 100 years old, so definitely old,
but I like it. What I don't like is the very low quality...
Best, Emmanuel
Best, Emmanuel
Your photos and observations reinforce my complete lack of interest in Franck Muller…your PP Gondolo is at a whole other level!
You are being too kind! It's just that the 5098P stand on a completely different level! ;-)
Your watch impressed me so much...
that I started looking back at old Franck Muller Cintrees to see if I could get that same magic at sub-Patek prices.
I'm afraid the answer is 'no.'
Franck Mueller watches are fun
but unfortunately they never speak to me. By the way, I remember having read somewhere, that Franck has sold his franchise and the brand is no longer his. Is my memory correct?
I don't know, unfortunately...
AI says: "No — Franck Muller is no longer the owner of his brand. Control of the Franck Muller Group rests with Vartan Sirmakes, the co‑founder and longtime business partner. Franck Muller himself has not controlled the company for years."
Best, Emmanuel
A common pattern, unfortunately
Brand builds out thanks to original design, quickly gains market share and adds enthusiasts, money starts flowing in and slowly management becomes lazy and the brand start losing its idendity and long-time supporters. I've seen that playbook unfold so many times and well beyond the world of watches. In such cases I often ask myself what would it take for me to buy a brand new model from such a maker. In the case of FM, the recent Curvex CX picked my interest but I have strong doubts the dial is just stamped and the price is too high for what is on offer. The lack of transparency does not help either with often vague if not blatantly fraudulent wording. The CX would make for a pleasant summer watch but it would have to be at least 30% cheaper - stopping short of saying 50% - and offer a better movement to be credible. The only other thing which would have me pay a premium is full custom order. Allow me to build a watch to my specifications, then maybe we can have a conversation. For the time being, pre-owned and early models is where the action is.
I'm afraid you're completely right about how some brands evolve.
And I completely agree with what your say concerning the CX or full custom order.
Best, Emmanuel
Best, Emmanuel