Comments:
De Bethune is a brand that captured many watch enthusiasts and connoisseurs attention and admiration throughout the years. 2014 has been a stellar year for the brand,we are always spoilt by De Bethune,the brand used us to multiple innovative creation for every new collection but I think that the current new collection is ,if it was ever possible, a step above.
A model from a couple of years ago received 3 incredible variation…..
Beautiful jumping hour watch,the case here is slightly deeper than a normal DB28 due to the caliber and the complication...
Just beautiful..
The movement..
2 beautiful "grand feu" enamel dial offerings……quite unexpected from De Bethune but the outcome is very very charming….
DB 28 tourbillon dead second…
Thats it for now,…
2014 ,the year that consolidated DE BETHUNE as the "exit"brand
De Bethune is a brand that captured many watch enthusiasts and connoisseurs attention and admiration throughout the years. 2014 has been a stellar year for the brand,we are always spoilt by De Bethune,the brand used us to multiple innovative creation for every new collection but I think that the current new collection is ,if it was ever possible, a step above.
ANY brand,at any stage of their life,even in "anniversaries"could claim an incredible year with just half or a third of the amount of creations De Bethune dishes out "every"year and that alone could be the only reason to just love this brand unconditionally.
I won t get carried away with rivers of compliments towards the vision of mr Zanetta and the genius of mr Flageollet,but if I have to sum up why I think that De Bethune is THE "exit brand" I would explain because:
-The design of every watch has its own personality,every creation is recognisable at a glance with so much quality oozing fem every angle.
The stylistic approach is always strong but elegant,groundbreaking but classic at the same time,no unnecessary writing anywhere,sometimes not even the brand name can be found and that is a sign of extreme class,there is no need to claim anything.
All the above is a +++++ for any watch purist,basically even if strong creations DB watches retain a big dose of understatement
-the technical side matches if not surpasses the design,well I can t decide really….patent after patent De Bethune established itself as a remarkable brand….the charm of the design is backed up by the awesomeness of beating hearts.
Nothing is too much,no gimmicks or pyrotechnics no automaton trickery but just horologerie at its best.
-new calibers:almost for every watch there is a new caliber for its purpose.
-finish:every creation is finished to a point that it gives emotions to anyone ready to be moved by it.A lot of new solutions for dial finishes,guillochet patterns,hands design and finish.
Some watches take off to another dimension like the "imperial fountain"set but even the "regular"production is breathtaking from the more classical creations to the more modern conceptual ones.
-the concept of every watch is always apropos,no racing cars,no machines on the wrist,no sculptures or artefacts,just sublime watches.
-no marketing wizardry or testimonials which ,at least to me,always are a downside……just a cool brand to follow.
All the above makes me love this brand unconditionally.
But enough of words now lets have a look at this years offerings from De Bethune
2014 collection includes:
New creations:2amazing new chronographs,a digital jumping hour watch,enamel dials DB25,dream watch 5,A marine chronometer(not officially out as yet though)…
New variations on existing models:3 astonishing new version of the DB25 qp,a black cased DB27,a new version of DB28 tourbillon dead seconds.
The DB28 maxichrono is a work of wonder,the dial is to die for ,the co-axial hands are a beauty to see in action and such a clever solution.
The DB28 maxichrono is a work of wonder,the dial is to die for ,the co-axial hands are a beauty to see in action and such a clever solution.
The mono pusher is integrated with the crown at 12 ,so easy to use.
Stunning dial design and layout.
….and the movement….seriously enchanting...
Also in titanium,I find this version more subdue and sober…maybe a bit too much.
DB29
Stunning dial design and layout.
….and the movement….seriously enchanting...
Also in titanium,I find this version more subdue and sober…maybe a bit too much.
DB29
No name no fuss,just this clean superb dial...
Just magnificent the movement is just incredible….
the officer case is just a touch of class,MAXI chrono MAXIMUM understatement…..
Just magnificent the movement is just incredible….
the officer case is just a touch of class,MAXI chrono MAXIMUM understatement…..
A model from a couple of years ago received 3 incredible variation…..
Slate grey for max elegance and sobriety..
A RG version with slate dial and gold numerals and hands….
A RG version with slate dial and gold numerals and hands….
It oozed richness and opulence…wow!!! what a watch...
…and then ,my favourite…RG salmon dial in a platinum case….now this would be MY ultimate watch…..
…and then ,my favourite…RG salmon dial in a platinum case….now this would be MY ultimate watch…..
My personal favourite this year...
The wonderful movement(6days power reserve)….
We are meant together…...
The wonderful movement(6days power reserve)….
We are meant together…...
Beautiful jumping hour watch,the case here is slightly deeper than a normal DB28 due to the caliber and the complication...
Just beautiful..
The movement..
2 beautiful "grand feu" enamel dial offerings……quite unexpected from De Bethune but the outcome is very very charming….
DB 28 tourbillon dead second…
with a anthracite plate for more contrast with the rehaut…
the tourbillon is hypnotising...
DB27 with a new zirconium case and lugs…
DB27 with a new zirconium case and lugs…
I mentioned before,even more trendy offerings like black cased watches are treated with a great deal of attention,no pad,dlc or any other coating…but treating Zirconium till it blackens…..pure class…
this watch is really working for me...
Thats it for now,…
I hope you liked the report,more than ever I consider De Bethune THE "exit "brand…when you reach it you reached the very top of the modern horological tree.
thanks for watching…
Mo
A wonderful hymn
Many thanks for your wonderful presentation of this year's offering. Such creativity for such a small company. And this, year in, year out.
I feel very privileged owning some of their watches.
I wrote it before, maybe not on this forum. De Dethune is horology at its best, as watch creation should be. I laud their creation and their spirit, always at the cutting edge of technological improvement, yet with a profound understanding of traditional watch making. In my humble opinion the best of watchmaking of the beginning of this century/ millennium.
Thank you again Mo
Thanks ztirual…I am glad we share the same admiration for DB
you mentioned you have "a few"of their watches??
Please share them with us…..
Thank you for your nice words by the way…
Mo
Dear Mo
Thank you for your nice words and for your invitation. I do not post much on Pspro. Too long to explain...
I'll send you a pm.
Thanks a lot Mo
The return of the Maxichrono looks fantastic... but the enameled are absolutely stunning. Killer piece right there.
One the most beautiful De Béthune imho with the recent DW5.
Thanks a lot.
You should see them in metal cisco
the enamel is stunning…..a very elegant proposal from De Bethune…
If you like DW5,well….you better fasten your seatbelt……I am sure you will be surprised soon…
Mo
De Bethune is quite unique in watchmaking
2 great men, associated in a very efficient project to say the least.
You know Mo I fully share your admiration for the brand.
I often have something to regret in that complex watchmaking world as it deals closely with Luxury.
But this brand doesn't do it like the others do (maybe something common when dealing with indies) and brings watch styling and movement design to another level.
The proof that we can be still surprised by watches in the future.
Thanks a lot for bringing many novelties I didn't see already and didn't even know about.
The DB28 Maxichrono in RG/Zirconium looks incredible.
As you mentioned, the use of Zirconium instead of PVD and DLC is another example of DB's expectations.
The Ti version is very nice (I like white metal) but maybe too discreet compared to the Zirco one.
The decoration of the movement's bridges is beautiful: modern but not too much and seems of a very high finishing standard.
The DB29 seems fantastic too from your pics and Magnus and Oliver's ones. Nice they proposed a Tourbillon version and a more "accessible" non tourbillon (yes it's a dary assertion there)
Something that is really amazing and I didn't heard about is these enamel dial 2 hands watches.
They seem fabulous (reminds me a little bit of Voutilainen's 2-eight, I don't know why). I guess they will be existing in White gold, it would be a great idea.
Do you know their size (the usual 44mm or smaller?)?
It will be very difficult to resist...
Thanks again Mo !
Cheers, Mark
You know Mo I fully share your admiration for the brand.
I often have something to regret in that complex watchmaking world as it deals closely with Luxury.
But this brand doesn't do it like the others do (maybe something common when dealing with indies) and brings watch styling and movement design to another level.
The proof that we can be still surprised by watches in the future.
Thanks a lot for bringing many novelties I didn't see already and didn't even know about.
The DB28 Maxichrono in RG/Zirconium looks incredible.
As you mentioned, the use of Zirconium instead of PVD and DLC is another example of DB's expectations.
The Ti version is very nice (I like white metal) but maybe too discreet compared to the Zirco one.
The decoration of the movement's bridges is beautiful: modern but not too much and seems of a very high finishing standard.
The DB29 seems fantastic too from your pics and Magnus and Oliver's ones. Nice they proposed a Tourbillon version and a more "accessible" non tourbillon (yes it's a dary assertion there)
Something that is really amazing and I didn't heard about is these enamel dial 2 hands watches.
They seem fabulous (reminds me a little bit of Voutilainen's 2-eight, I don't know why). I guess they will be existing in White gold, it would be a great idea.
Do you know their size (the usual 44mm or smaller?)?
It will be very difficult to resist...
Thanks again Mo !
Cheers, Mark
I was waiting for your reply Mark...
As a fellow DB enthusiast and owner….
Yep a stellar year,the 2 Chronos steal the show I think,how could not they,but my fav remains the QP…even if I swore I would only own one….
I agree with all you said….when high watchmaking and Luxury are mixed together,you give way to tons of marketing gimmicks and loads of superfluous blah blah,but thats not the case with DB.
For the rest eel…we know De Bethune does not cut corners in terms of overall quality.
The 2 enamel beauties come in the smaller 40mm case,very elegant indeed….I guess they will see the white gold case declination as well in the future.
thank you Mark..
Mo
It feels good to sell our saul to a brand...
without the feeling something's might be wrong or not "genuine".
The DB25 QP was my favorite DB at the beginning...before they launched every year new hit machines, starting with the DB25 T Jumping Second.
The QP has a very balanced dial with the 2 windows, the MP and the date, and a very nice decoration with the guilloché and a fantastic painted numeral ring (I'll keep the silver day for now but I'll be curious to see the others in the metal).
And it's automatic (I like automatic).
I love the DB25 T Jumping second, it's a marvel to look at and the dead second has really been growing on me as a very attracting complication (it wasn't true several years ago).
Its "sister", the DB28 ST is one of the most beautiful (and I prefer it in the original version, not really convinced by the 2014 version with blackened bridges). Would I prefer the 25 or the 28 version? I don't know, the DB28 is more impressive but the DB25 is more wearable as an everyday watch I guess.
Then came the Skybridge, again another different world, no copy of existing models. I think very fine craftmanship and "metal-blueing" mastery, but maybe not the one I would pick.
And came, another major step in the collection building with the 2014 collection: the DW5, very nice aesthetics even if I really don't see myself wearing one (very nice on a pictures or a table but I don't like it when I see it on a wrist though).
And boom, it is launched together with the Digitale. Quite unique decoration, still very DB in the mix modern/classic.
But I think that what DB has prepared for Basel with the fantastic DB28&DB29 maxichronos is overwhelming.
One of the best style, with one of the best calibers (the decoration is unique, unseen and so beautiful, the design of the mechanics seems also to reach high tops).
This is a movement I will really be looking forward to reading about (friction issues, co-axial solutions).
Last but not least, the 2 pictures of the enameled DB is haunting me since yesterday.... (especially the blue ring/white dial center).
Oh My Mo, what am I gonna do!
Let things cool down a bit but Db won't leave us alone, will they?
Cheers, Mark
The DB25 QP was my favorite DB at the beginning...before they launched every year new hit machines, starting with the DB25 T Jumping Second.
The QP has a very balanced dial with the 2 windows, the MP and the date, and a very nice decoration with the guilloché and a fantastic painted numeral ring (I'll keep the silver day for now but I'll be curious to see the others in the metal).
And it's automatic (I like automatic).
I love the DB25 T Jumping second, it's a marvel to look at and the dead second has really been growing on me as a very attracting complication (it wasn't true several years ago).
Its "sister", the DB28 ST is one of the most beautiful (and I prefer it in the original version, not really convinced by the 2014 version with blackened bridges). Would I prefer the 25 or the 28 version? I don't know, the DB28 is more impressive but the DB25 is more wearable as an everyday watch I guess.
Then came the Skybridge, again another different world, no copy of existing models. I think very fine craftmanship and "metal-blueing" mastery, but maybe not the one I would pick.
And came, another major step in the collection building with the 2014 collection: the DW5, very nice aesthetics even if I really don't see myself wearing one (very nice on a pictures or a table but I don't like it when I see it on a wrist though).
And boom, it is launched together with the Digitale. Quite unique decoration, still very DB in the mix modern/classic.
But I think that what DB has prepared for Basel with the fantastic DB28&DB29 maxichronos is overwhelming.
One of the best style, with one of the best calibers (the decoration is unique, unseen and so beautiful, the design of the mechanics seems also to reach high tops).
This is a movement I will really be looking forward to reading about (friction issues, co-axial solutions).
Last but not least, the 2 pictures of the enameled DB is haunting me since yesterday.... (especially the blue ring/white dial center).
Oh My Mo, what am I gonna do!
Let things cool down a bit but Db won't leave us alone, will they?
Cheers, Mark
Its difficult to see everything else objectively ….
I am still struggling,I am trying to get it out of my head but….those enamels have great potential….imagine in the future…
I lost count of DB creations since I loved the brand…..just mind boggling…
C mon Mark,hold on my friend…we are in this together..
Mo
Breathtaking; I am stunned!
Mo,
Excellent pictorial report, DeBethune has been a brand which has grown on me over the past few years; especially considering the beautiful pictures you have posted of yours..
This year was absolutely jaw-dropping in every sense of the word. The daring designs and brilliantly executed complications; just wonderful.
The DB25 QP in slate grey is a winner for me; although out of range given my planned next moves; would be nice to see these in the metal at some point. The enamel dial is another which I will have to come back to.. the blue ring is sublime.
Thank you for such a well documented look into the 2014 collection!
Do you see potential for any of these to make their way into your collection?
Best regards,
Colton
This message has been edited by colton_d on 2014-04-06 15:34:36
Excellent pictorial report, DeBethune has been a brand which has grown on me over the past few years; especially considering the beautiful pictures you have posted of yours..
This year was absolutely jaw-dropping in every sense of the word. The daring designs and brilliantly executed complications; just wonderful.
The DB25 QP in slate grey is a winner for me; although out of range given my planned next moves; would be nice to see these in the metal at some point. The enamel dial is another which I will have to come back to.. the blue ring is sublime.
Thank you for such a well documented look into the 2014 collection!
Do you see potential for any of these to make their way into your collection?
Best regards,
Colton
This message has been edited by colton_d on 2014-04-06 15:34:36
OH. MY. GAWD!
It's like every other brand just vaporized and there is only DB now.
Madness-inducing.
I thought the Ti Maxichrono was THE ONE but...
The slate QP is like a shot the collector-vein.
Thanks for a spectacular report Mo.
The prices are as 'original' as the pieces
So 'inventive!' This message has been edited by Mostel on 2014-04-06 19:29:21
Your welcome Mostel...
Indeed if you visit de Bethune booth in a watch fair,you have that sense of all the rest…vaporising away,as you said…You would be contempt enough..
Qp slate dial a stunner!I agree
Mo
Hi Colton...
Well yes,I have to agree that the QP slate dial is just stunning,all of them are really….The guillochet pattern has to be experienced live,that dial is just perfect:the three layers,the gold infused star shaped holes around the moon,the moo phase,the hands and the optimum legibility….breathtaking…
My favourite is the plat salmon dial QP…..in my collection?I really hope I will be so lucky one day,,it will complement the other brothers so well…
thanks for chipping in..
Mo
Could not agree more. THE most captivating watches!!! Thanks for this!! [nt]
No message body
Thanks Mo!...
Remarkably clear 'in the field' photos - we are spoiled by your great coverage. Now, if you could just persuade the boys to send a slate dial QP down here for a very long-term PR 'loan'...
Cheers,
pplater.
I will talk to them pplater….
I am sure they can arrange something….and the salmon dial to me……
Thank you my friend for the kind words…looking forward to seeing you again soon
Mo
Thanks for the review; can you define "exit brand" for me
Haven't heard it before and from your article can't fathom what it means. Even Google was no help?
Thanks
Cazalea
Its a term die-hard watch aficionados don't know...
as it means: your very last time piece you acquire. The that defines you as matured. Or as totally satisfied. Which marks your exit from watch collecting.
Understand the term now ;-)?
Cheers,
Magnus
Elaborating on Magnus answer above...
well basically,when you will reach the end of your horological journey,after you started with your "entry"brand(breitling for me….for many I supposeRolex ,JLC etc…..),
you will find THE watch or THE brand that will sum up all you like in watch collecting…some sort of horological Nirvana.
Your mature conscious decision that what you have before your eyes is the 'non plus ultra'…..the retirement state…well for me its without any doubt De Bethune.
Mo
This message has been edited by moc on 2014-04-07 01:35:57
Does it still count...
...if you obsess about having multiple De Bethunes?
Although I have to say I can already die a happy man even if my DB27 is the last watch I ever own! (",)
Although I have to say I can already die a happy man even if my DB27 is the last watch I ever own! (",)
Well I am a collector first, and a watch collector secondarily, so
For me the only imaginable "exit brand" is a long pine box in a long black car.
I have not owned a deBethune although I have handled, tried on (bid for) and lusted after many of them.
But since I'm not going to do the lawn or work on my car wearing one, there's room for the tool watch, and the ..., and the ...
Cheers,
Cazalea