Horological Meandering

After visiting The Purist, and now WatchProSite, for several years, I think now could be the time to make my first post.

From the beginning I've developed an affinity for dual time, GMT, world time watches. Over the years I've tried to identify varying timepieces of this nature...pieces that make my heart flutter. In addition, each one had to be able to express/handle the dual time function in a slightly different way:

1. Second time zone displayed on the edge of the dial
2. Second time zone activated by separate push button
3. Second time zone that can be moved forward or backward
4. World Time
5. Sports/pilot's watch with dual time function
6. Dual time with big date
7. Dual time displayed on the bezel
8. Dual time with chronograph

To date, I've managed to fulfil (1) - (5). Unfortunately the credit crunch has also dented my ability to further this cause, at least for the time being. Nevertheless the pieces shown below represent what I've been able to achieve given my limited finances. Most of them are also tagged with memories of  significant turning points in my life - new job, new environment, new friends.

While I continue in search of my holy grail (i.e. to complete my collection), I'd like to take this opportunity to make a toast to my humble lot of dual-time-keepers.

Hope you enjoy the pix!

Two Timer,

Your maiden post gives us all hope that long time lurkers will eventually become active PuristS contributors.

For a 1st post, it was very well thought out. Now you only need 1999 more to get to Ronald's milestone click here    

 

But, what a long wait until your 1st post........

 

Regards, MTF

I like chronographs and 2 time zone displays are really useful in our globalised lives.  So here are a few suggestions for a combined chronograph with 2nd 24-h indication (or GMT) display.

 

Piaget Polo Chronograph with extra-caliber jewels

hmmmm....maybe too shiny? 

Then, the following regular Piaget Polo Chronograph may be more suitable

 

 

 

If you are a sportier guy and like bigger watches now, then this 45mm but curved case of the Piaget Polo FortyFive Chronograph in titanium case may be the choice?

They all have the 880P calibre and you get the fly-back function for free ! 

I must admit that I don't really know what to do with fly-back ability but at least it's another safety feature to protect my watch from my abuse.

 

Regards, MTF

Sorry, dear MTF, you know that I appreciate the important role played by Piaget in the history of Swiss watchmaking, and I also like their fresh way of engineering and development. However, should this be a general amnesty for crimes against  basic design principles?



This watch has so short and stubby hands, that they do not even come near the minute markers, where they should be; they do not even reach all of the massive hour markers. Well, it would have been better if Piaget had equipped these hands with ironsights, or some other aiming device, to realize which time the hand is pointing to. The subcounter hands, too, are so stubby, that any accurate reading is a matter of sheer luck.



Here, the main minute hand is better (why does Piaget think this does not work with the other chronograph shown above?), but now, the subcounter hands are too long to permit a clear reading; they overshoot the indexes by far, and due to their tapered Dauphin shape, they even hide two of the markers at the same time.

Call me overly conservative, but I think even a design or fashion chronograph is still a precision instrument to measure time spans, in the first place. Contrary to the belief of some design apprentices, I am convinced that it IS possible to combine design with unflawed function.

Sorry for my rant, but this is an issue infuriating me since years already, concerning not only Piaget, but many other brands as well, including some of my very own favourite brands.

Regards,
Marcus

Marcus,

I agree mostly that the hands' lengths for the chronograph/time displays are....er....'sub-optimal'   

It is a justifiable rant.

Thank goodness, TwoTimer is mainly interested in the dual time display as the entry criterium for the collection.

 

Your rant set me off to re-examine my small collection of chronoscopes  (my pet peeve is the mis-use of 'graph' in the nomenclature of non-writing devices   )

I discovered that sub-conciously, I have usually chosen chronoscopes with "correct length" hands.  The best were (expectedly) from the Houses of Audemars Piguet, Omega and A.Lange.  Maybe that is why they are in my collection  -- they looked 'right' at the time.

 

Regards, MTF

 

This message has been edited by MTF on 2009-08-07 06:31:22

How I wish too to have unlimited fund.
Those are nice pieces with a consistent theme.
The Union Glashutte piece looks good!

What do you have in mind for #6 to #8?

Kong

I'm always on the lookout for new presentations of the dual time function, but the current crop of out-of-this-world case designs sometimes leaves me with mixed feelings. Right now I spend most of my time pondering over these models:

Dual Time with Big Date
- Baume et Mercier Hampton Square
- Bell & Ross BR 03-51
- Ulysse Nardin GMT Perpetual (probably beyond my means)

Second Time Zone on Bezel
- Rolex Explorer II (White Dial)
- Panerai Luminor GMT (rare model I think)

Dual Time with Chronograph
- Ebel 1911 BTR GMT

Others
JLC Master Hometime

 

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The mosti nteresting, to me, is the Arktos GMT ( 500 pieces ) or the Pam 252 aka North Pole, limited to 500 pieces, too, which is bascally the same than the 186, but with a deep Blue dial instead of a black one...

Nice Watches, with a story behind, and GMTs!



Here's a great pic ( Don't remember who to credit for ):



Best,

Nicolas

Hi Amanico,

The Arktos looks great. I was also thinking along the lines of this PAM. Understand it was one of their earlier GMTs.

Less tastefull, let's say.

The Arktos are better conceived, to my eyes, and there s a story behind.

Best,

Nicolas

Forgot to include another one of my hopefuls...the Grand Seiko GMT SBGM001. Gosh...the pursuit of happiness sure is tough.

Dual Time with Big Date
- Baume et Mercier Hampton Square
- Bell & Ross BR 03-51
- Ulysse Nardin GMT Perpetual
- probably beyond my means

Second Time Zone on Bezel
- Rolex Explorer II (White Dial)
- Panerai Luminor GMT - rare model I think
- Grand Seiko SBGM001

Dual Time with Chronograph
- Ebel 1911 BTR GMT

Others
- JLC Master Hometime

I recommend this watch! Very flashy dial, great movement, solid case and excellent bracelet. Feels very good on your arm and doesn't hurt your pocket that badly!

NIcely finished inside too, though it has a solid caseback so you can't see inside without a wrench or cooperative watchmaker.

 

 

This message has been edited by cazalea on 2009-08-05 09:02:21

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I'm surprised you didn't list the UN non-perpetual in your list of GMT and big date, it's one of the classics:



On the other hand, if you come into some money I would NEVER dissuade someone from the GMT Perpetual

A

I think it is always fascinating to observe the growing of collections that are based on a specific topic, in your case: GMT/World Time watches. You have already a very nice little collection here, of very different styles. While being aware that your collecting activity is currently paused, may I nevertheless suggest to include another consideration in your wish list?

Generally, we use to distinguish two-time zone watches into two categories, sloppily called "Travel to there"- and "Stay at home"-Watches.

A typical "Travel to there"-Watch is based on the assumption that you are wearing the watch, while crossing time zones yourself. In that case, it makes no sense to have a small 24 hours hand that can be adjusted to time zones, while you still have to hack the watch and set the main hour and minute hands conventionally, like any other watch. In the contrary, a "Travel to there"-Watch normally offers a quick-adjustment function of the MAIN hour hand in hourly increments. This permits to leave the watch running and accurate, without affecting (and changing) the minute hand. In this case, the separate 24 hours display indicates the time at home, and does not change when you adapt your watch to another time zone.

Since this mechanism is a bit more complicated, fewer two time zone watches offered on the market belong into this category. Within, they differ according to the cleverness of their mechanism (ease of use, forward- AND backward sedtting capability of the date, quick-setting of the date possible, etc.).

Your nice Union watch clearly  belongs into this category. It is a very rare watch indeed, since it was produced only in small numbers. The GMT module was made by Dubois-Dépraz, if I recall correctly. Yours seems to be from the improved series already. The very first one used the plain pushers for adjusting the hour hand. Since they were not locked in any way, and easy to press, it happened frequently that the hour was changed accidentally. Upon realizing that, the people in Glashütte enlarged the "sleeve" of the pushers, only leaving a slit, so the user has to use his finger nail to press the button.

Your other watches fall into the "Stay at home"-watches category. Here, the main hour and minute hands are set conventionally, and only the small 24 hours hand is set independently. The date is not coupled with the second time zone, but with the main time display. These watches are ideal when the wearer stays at home, but wants to keep record of the time in another time zone, home of a business partner, for example. On pilot watches, this is often used to keep the Greenwich mean time as a reference.

Your Zenith Elite is a very fine example of this category. When the cal. 600 (Elite) was released by Zenith, the additional 24 hours complication was already in the offer as well. For a very long time, this remained the only additional complication of the Elite movement. When it was designed, the developers pursued the then current design ideal of very fine and thin movements, that fit into delicate watches. Consequently, it is a bit weird to see the huge chunky cases Zenith uses now to house that movement. Due to its delicacy, the Elite did not permit the addition of complex and energy-consuming modules, so the small second and the 24 hours indication were the utmost possible then.

So if you plan to somewhen acquire other watches, may I suggest a "Travel to there"-watch with big date? Here, an Ulysse Nardin would be an appropriate candidate. Due to it being a long-time bestseller of UN, it should be rather easy to find fine examples pre-owned at a good price.

Best regards,
Marcus

What a presentation post, Two Timer!

It is a real pleasure to welcome you here!

I must confess, like you, a certain weakness for GMT Watches, and for Alarms, too.

Back to your watches, I'm really impressed by the rugged style of your Sinn.

When you have time, may you post other pics?

Looking forward to hear more from you,

Best,

Nicolas

You have a "thinking man's" collection. At least to me.

I am so happy to see such a range of pieces...these are exactly what gives depth to this hobby.

You have entered the hobby at the best of times..when you can buy watches at prices that many of us suffered for, at least, I did.

Thanks for sharing.

You even got a warmer welcomes from the masters here compare to my 1st post (maybe they knew that somehow I would turn into a nuisance).

Funnily, I do NOT have any GMT or world timer. I use the crudest way: I wear 1 watch on each wrist, left for the current time zone, the right for home time zone . Easily adjustable, and I get to depreciate my watch faster.

If I were to buy GMT watch, I would get blancpain leman gmt alarm titanium.

cen@jkt

Just like to say a big thanks for the favourable response to my first post.

Marcus has definitely set me thinking about dual time zone watches in another dimension - "stay at home" and "travel to there". Kong's question went a long way to help me to crystallize my shortlist and next target. Amanico and Bernard's validation of my little collection has certainly added more fuel to my desire. And last but not least, hope you'll add a GMT to your collection some time, Cen!

I would like to read your opinion on this:

 

 

 

Seems to be one of the best buys available, but maybe a bit too big for my taste. What do you think of it?

 

By the way, be very welcome, Two Timer! And congratulations for the beautiful collection

 

Marcelo

Hi Marcelo,

Thanks for your kind words.

If budget is an issue, I'd say this is a great piece to begin with. In my opinion, the red 24hr markers against the white dial exudes a simple elegance. Not too over-the-top. The ML that I have is rather similar, although only the "24" is in red. Movement-wise, it isn't in the same league as those brands with in-house movements, but there's nothing wrong with a time-tested engine under the hood. Running cost is also an important factor for me. Just the other day I jumped when I realised how much servicing costs for one of the better known marques compared to watches with the ubiquitous ETA movements.

The 42mm size is actually not big really. I'm a lanky guy, and I've gradually moved from 36mm to 40mm over the years. Nowadays, anything less than 40mm seems awkward. Perhaps it's a sign of the times. Maybe one day the standard for men's watches will be closer to 45mm.

This is just my 2-cents worth. Hope you land your first dual-time soon!

TT aka Two Timer

It's a bit too complex to describe WHY we need or have 1/2 or 3/4 hour time zones, but why not have a watch for when you need to visit those places???

Here's one candidate, the IKEPOD ISOPODE, with lots of other quirky features too, such as wacky rubber strap or bracelet, smooth case, etc.

It's deficient in one respect - no lume, so you can't see it at all in dim light. But fun anyway!



And there is always the "zone on front and zone on back" watch. This is what I got even though I really wanted a Master Hometime. A Grande GMT

Or the Oh-So-Beautiful but strangely unpopular MLC Pontos Decentrique (could it be the name) which gives you two zones with instant correction, day-night indicator, and my fav feature - luminous date.

Great first post - thanks for the inspiration. And happy collecting. I have had probably 50 GMT, 2-zone, etc watches and still love the theme.

Cheers

Mike aka Cazalea

First of all, welcome to our society where we talk about wristwatches all the time.

I especially like the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Grande GMT. I think this is a great watch with classic good looks, an in-house movement, and it's reasonably affordable. A beautiful watch! Oh, I would add to my list, a travel watch that can do India (GMT +4:30). Not a lot of watches can do that! This message has been edited by patrick_y on 2009-08-05 10:30:21

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Nice themed collection there.

 

How about one of these with chronograph?  You can actually end up with 3 timezones on this; main dial, subdial at 6 and the inner rotating bezel.  Enough to keep anyone amused I should think ;-)

 

 

OKay,  I don't know how I ended up with 3 pics..?

 

  ML seem to be doing quite well on this thread

 

Regards

 

Tim

This message has been edited by 41northpole on 2009-08-05 14:02:50

I like your Union Glashutte which is very interesting.

Regards

Ling

And welcome to the posting world.  I think you have made excellent well thought out selections in your collection and I like the fact you have connected them to special times in your life.  These are the marks of a true "Purist" at heart.  Hope to see many more posts from you in the future.  This was a great one, thank you so much for sharing.

After seeing the pictures posted above, my love for the GS GMT grew stronger. I was initially looking to get the Rolex GMTIIC probably next year but now may lean more towards the GS. Great quality build i must say from the current Seiko/GS in possession. If that is not enough, the accuracy is tough to beat.