Comments:
Photo taken from Michael Sandler's website.
Ingenieur history goes back a few decades, but the original model that the current Automatic Ingenieur takes its inspiration from is the 1976 Jumbo SL designed by the illustrious Gerald Genta. Plenty of more details and technical specifications can be easily found by a simple Google search should it be desired.
What happened to the classic design was quite radical. It has been described as the Ingenieur on steroids. It really is a tremendous evolution. From a small AP Royal Oak like understated timepiece, to the current stainless steel sculpture/brick/slab/or whatever you wish to call it. If you haven’t picked one up yet, you may sense what I describe when I say that I would feel confident taking it off my wrist and using it as a bludgeoning weapon should I ever come across the need to. Not only that but I’m sure the shock protected movement (more on this later) would handle the forces properly! All in good fun.
Stock photo
The current automatic line (AMG and Regular SS) bears the infamous calibre 80110, subject of much controversy regarding its true “In-House-ness”. I reserve my opinion on this.
Stock photo
Overview/First Impressions:
It really is quite an impression when you first lift it up and handle it. It feels a bit edgy and aggressive to the touch and quite heavy. Your fingertips may feel a bit uneasy due to the sharp edges at first. Observing it closely and examining its details, it’s clear that it’s quite a well-made timepiece. The attention to detail and depth that is found on the dial and hands is almost breathtaking; you can easily get lost staring at it (at least I did, and still do sometimes). When you slip it on your wrist, its weight is instantly noticed (to some this may even put up a negative picture). As soon as you close the clasp, though, the perception may change drastically as the integrated bracelet does an excellent job distributing the combined weight of the watch evenly around your wrist. After a while, you may come to forget you ever had it on in the first place (unless you are around plenty of door-frames, it’s quite tall and a ding magnet, one of its drawbacks)
Despite its size (42mm) the watch manages to feel a bit smaller, perhaps due to the smaller dial.
Fit/Finish:
As stated in the introduction, the attention to detail IWC put on the design and manufacture of this watch is admirable. The finish of the bracelet and case is quite detailed and complicated. Each link obviously takes some time to properly detail and polish.
The bracelet fits onto the case via a pin system used by IWC on many of its bracelets. You simply depress the mini buttons on the inside of each link (with the supplied brass tool to prevent scratches) and push the pin out from the side. Upon examination of the pins, one can see that each one has a perfectly polished/machined tip. This circular pattern is a nice touch to the already highly detailed bracelet.
Case:
The same applies to the traditional, three-piece case, which appears to have undergone many different polishing/brushing sessions in order achieve its angular feel. There are absolutely no defects in machining or otherwise that I could find on my watch. This, of course, is expected on a watch of such cost. The dial is part of the Faraday that protects the movement from magnetic interference. It's made up of the dial (lid) a thick ring and the soft iron case back. All of these are made, of course, out of soft iron. Protecting the dial is an AR coated, flat sapphire crystal. The case back is also very well executed and engraved
Dial:
The dial and hands also have a lot of detail, all of which can be better described through pictures than with words.
The luminosity is not fantastic, although the highly reflective markers and indexes reflect just about any light, making it readable in a dark movie theater without using the luminous material as guidance. Though not very strong, the luminous material is well applied without any visible imperfections.
Accuracy/Movement:
I gave up on tracking mechanical watches’ accuracy. It got to a point where it was fun for the first week or so of a new timepiece, but then no more. What I did observe on this particular watch was sub one-second difference per day over the course of 2 weeks. I don’t remember the exact number but basically it gained less than 10 seconds over the course of fourteen days. I did not keep daily track of it either, I simply didn’t take it off my wrist. Showered with it, slept with it, danced with it, enjoyed it! Personally this is more than satisfactory for rate results. The winding is very efficient, thanks to the Pellaton system, a feature also shared with the 5000 movement series. This has been documented extensively in many different forums and web-pages.
Movement features/Finishing:
The movement features a shock absorbing system that protects the movement plates and components. It's essentially made up of two things. First, the snake-like spring visible in the picture above. This spring allows the rotor to shift from it's central position, preventing a hard knock from breaking the oscillating mass axle. The second component is a set of synthetic pads made of a nylon-like material called Delrin (DuPont patent). These pads are placed throughout the movement, where a shifting rotor could possibly hit in the event of a sudden shock. These are protections that go beyond the typical incabloc, kif, in terms of damage prevention technology.
Since this is essentially a tool watch, it deserves an industrial-like finishing. It would be somewhat akward to open the case up and find a highly polished, beveled movement with anglage etc. What IWC managed to do is decorate the movement, make it look good, while maintaining the spirit of things. Under very close inspection, you can see some very minor blemishes either in decoration or machining, but none of the very few that I noticed posed a potential mechanical problem.
Summary:
I quite enjoy wearing this watch regularly. It has given me no trouble so far and I’ve noticed something I quite like about it. It seems that IWC has used steel that is somewhat more scratch resistant than the industry standard stainless steel. Overall it's a very solid timepiece that delivers pretty much everything it promises. An in-house movement cased in a fabulous setting with a spectacular bracelet to boot.
Like any timepiece, you should always try it on if you have the opportunity. This watch is certainly different than most and may not be for everyone.
Please be sure to consult with a doctor prior to beginning any weight lifting routine with this watch as training equipment! Otherwise, if you feel compelled to do so, just go out and buy one. It’s worth it.
A final, afternoon wrist shot!
Fred Bonatto
This message has been edited by MTF on 2008-12-01 04:41:03
I feel your love for this piece , when reading you.
Very nicely documented, and awesome pics, too!
This Ingenieur is a very nice alternative to the Rolex Milgauss.
Congrats, and many thnaks for your job, Fred!
Best.
Nicolas
Thanks for sharing Fred. Truly enjoyed your review.
IWC 3227-01 In-Depth Review
The 3227-01 Ingenieur Review
by Fred Bonatto
I really had great pleasure in photographing and writing about one my favorite watches. Those who have the pleasure of owning one know exactly what I’m talking about. I’ve owned this watch for a sometime now and feel confident writing a review that I hope is both insightful and pleasant to read. It’s in my weekly rotation and I think it needs no formal introduction, but since some may not know it’s full history or influences, I would feel the review to be incomplete, and it would be inadequate not to include at least a short summary. I had a short “in-love” period with this watch that unfortunately was ended because I traded it down with plenty of cash back, a good trade at the time but one I came to regret almost instantly. About one week after the trade, I was able to locate one at a reasonable price and once again pulled the trigger!by Fred Bonatto
Ingenieur history goes back a few decades, but the original model that the current Automatic Ingenieur takes its inspiration from is the 1976 Jumbo SL designed by the illustrious Gerald Genta. Plenty of more details and technical specifications can be easily found by a simple Google search should it be desired.
What happened to the classic design was quite radical. It has been described as the Ingenieur on steroids. It really is a tremendous evolution. From a small AP Royal Oak like understated timepiece, to the current stainless steel sculpture/brick/slab/or whatever you wish to call it. If you haven’t picked one up yet, you may sense what I describe when I say that I would feel confident taking it off my wrist and using it as a bludgeoning weapon should I ever come across the need to. Not only that but I’m sure the shock protected movement (more on this later) would handle the forces properly! All in good fun.
The current automatic line (AMG and Regular SS) bears the infamous calibre 80110, subject of much controversy regarding its true “In-House-ness”. I reserve my opinion on this.
Overview/First Impressions:
It really is quite an impression when you first lift it up and handle it. It feels a bit edgy and aggressive to the touch and quite heavy. Your fingertips may feel a bit uneasy due to the sharp edges at first. Observing it closely and examining its details, it’s clear that it’s quite a well-made timepiece. The attention to detail and depth that is found on the dial and hands is almost breathtaking; you can easily get lost staring at it (at least I did, and still do sometimes). When you slip it on your wrist, its weight is instantly noticed (to some this may even put up a negative picture). As soon as you close the clasp, though, the perception may change drastically as the integrated bracelet does an excellent job distributing the combined weight of the watch evenly around your wrist. After a while, you may come to forget you ever had it on in the first place (unless you are around plenty of door-frames, it’s quite tall and a ding magnet, one of its drawbacks)
Despite its size (42mm) the watch manages to feel a bit smaller, perhaps due to the smaller dial.
Fit/Finish:
As stated in the introduction, the attention to detail IWC put on the design and manufacture of this watch is admirable. The finish of the bracelet and case is quite detailed and complicated. Each link obviously takes some time to properly detail and polish.
The bracelet fits onto the case via a pin system used by IWC on many of its bracelets. You simply depress the mini buttons on the inside of each link (with the supplied brass tool to prevent scratches) and push the pin out from the side. Upon examination of the pins, one can see that each one has a perfectly polished/machined tip. This circular pattern is a nice touch to the already highly detailed bracelet.
Case:
The same applies to the traditional, three-piece case, which appears to have undergone many different polishing/brushing sessions in order achieve its angular feel. There are absolutely no defects in machining or otherwise that I could find on my watch. This, of course, is expected on a watch of such cost. The dial is part of the Faraday that protects the movement from magnetic interference. It's made up of the dial (lid) a thick ring and the soft iron case back. All of these are made, of course, out of soft iron. Protecting the dial is an AR coated, flat sapphire crystal. The case back is also very well executed and engraved
Dial:
The dial and hands also have a lot of detail, all of which can be better described through pictures than with words.
The luminosity is not fantastic, although the highly reflective markers and indexes reflect just about any light, making it readable in a dark movie theater without using the luminous material as guidance. Though not very strong, the luminous material is well applied without any visible imperfections.
Accuracy/Movement:
I gave up on tracking mechanical watches’ accuracy. It got to a point where it was fun for the first week or so of a new timepiece, but then no more. What I did observe on this particular watch was sub one-second difference per day over the course of 2 weeks. I don’t remember the exact number but basically it gained less than 10 seconds over the course of fourteen days. I did not keep daily track of it either, I simply didn’t take it off my wrist. Showered with it, slept with it, danced with it, enjoyed it! Personally this is more than satisfactory for rate results. The winding is very efficient, thanks to the Pellaton system, a feature also shared with the 5000 movement series. This has been documented extensively in many different forums and web-pages.
Movement features/Finishing:
The movement features a shock absorbing system that protects the movement plates and components. It's essentially made up of two things. First, the snake-like spring visible in the picture above. This spring allows the rotor to shift from it's central position, preventing a hard knock from breaking the oscillating mass axle. The second component is a set of synthetic pads made of a nylon-like material called Delrin (DuPont patent). These pads are placed throughout the movement, where a shifting rotor could possibly hit in the event of a sudden shock. These are protections that go beyond the typical incabloc, kif, in terms of damage prevention technology.
The Pelatton System
Since this is essentially a tool watch, it deserves an industrial-like finishing. It would be somewhat akward to open the case up and find a highly polished, beveled movement with anglage etc. What IWC managed to do is decorate the movement, make it look good, while maintaining the spirit of things. Under very close inspection, you can see some very minor blemishes either in decoration or machining, but none of the very few that I noticed posed a potential mechanical problem.
Summary:
I quite enjoy wearing this watch regularly. It has given me no trouble so far and I’ve noticed something I quite like about it. It seems that IWC has used steel that is somewhat more scratch resistant than the industry standard stainless steel. Overall it's a very solid timepiece that delivers pretty much everything it promises. An in-house movement cased in a fabulous setting with a spectacular bracelet to boot.
Like any timepiece, you should always try it on if you have the opportunity. This watch is certainly different than most and may not be for everyone.
Please be sure to consult with a doctor prior to beginning any weight lifting routine with this watch as training equipment! Otherwise, if you feel compelled to do so, just go out and buy one. It’s worth it.
A final, afternoon wrist shot!
Fred Bonatto
This message has been edited by MTF on 2008-12-01 04:41:03
Now that is a Review, Fred!
I feel your love for this piece , when reading you.
Very nicely documented, and awesome pics, too!
This Ingenieur is a very nice alternative to the Rolex Milgauss.
Congrats, and many thnaks for your job, Fred!
Best.
Nicolas
Thank you for the Fabulous review................
, its exactly my thoughts on the Ingenieur but I don’t possess the talent to express it in the eloquent way you did. Good Job !
Pellaton
Hi Fred,
Once again a great report. Do you know when and on which watch, IWC introduced the pellaton? I really like those eccentric (pun intended) winding systems.
Pellaton...
...this was introduced in the Cal 85 around 1950. It first appeared in a number of nameless watches (named, themed watch lines weren't a big feature of the industry at that time).
The first Ingenieur model was the Ref 666A which was announced in 1954 and first delivered in quantity in 1955. It used a slightly updated and improved version of the Cal 85 (specifically the 852).
The Cal 85 series, in various updates, was used in the Ingenieur line until the early 1980s when an ETA movement was used instead (ie: no Pellaton winding). The whole line died out in 1999, but was revived for the Ref 3227 as reviewed above, when it once again had an IWC own movement with Pellaton.
The winding mechanism was available on a few other IWC calibres, the most interesting being the fabled Cal 100. It was designed as a Cal 85x replacement to the more modern standards of the 1970s. Unfortunately the upheavals in the industry accompanying the introduction of quartz movements came at the same time and the design was cancelled, but not before a very few models escaped into the wild. A watch with this movement would be a rare find indeed.
The first Ingenieur model was the Ref 666A which was announced in 1954 and first delivered in quantity in 1955. It used a slightly updated and improved version of the Cal 85 (specifically the 852).
The Cal 85 series, in various updates, was used in the Ingenieur line until the early 1980s when an ETA movement was used instead (ie: no Pellaton winding). The whole line died out in 1999, but was revived for the Ref 3227 as reviewed above, when it once again had an IWC own movement with Pellaton.
The winding mechanism was available on a few other IWC calibres, the most interesting being the fabled Cal 100. It was designed as a Cal 85x replacement to the more modern standards of the 1970s. Unfortunately the upheavals in the industry accompanying the introduction of quartz movements came at the same time and the design was cancelled, but not before a very few models escaped into the wild. A watch with this movement would be a rare find indeed.
I've seen that before I think..
Isn't that model a promotional item IWC released? I like it.
The system does appear to be rather complex (but then so are many of the reverser mechanisms in conventional winding systems), I think I prefer the Magic Lever.
Thanks! If this was a promotional
item, then I had to pay for the privilege (I think it was about US$75)
The Magic Lever certainly is simpler, even to my less-than-expert eyes. John Davis masterfully explains and illustrates it here:
www.thepurists.com
That considered, the Pellaton is I think really quite elegant, not as utterly simple as ML, but seemingly bereft of excessive parts or complicated engineering. It is also beautiful to look at (& watch in action) and very efficient in my experience.
The Magic Lever certainly is simpler, even to my less-than-expert eyes. John Davis masterfully explains and illustrates it here:
www.thepurists.com
That considered, the Pellaton is I think really quite elegant, not as utterly simple as ML, but seemingly bereft of excessive parts or complicated engineering. It is also beautiful to look at (& watch in action) and very efficient in my experience.
Steve, I'd be more than...
Steve, I'd be more than happy to take it off your hands if you feel
you were "robbed" ;) . I love that display!
Regards,
Fred Bonatto
you were "robbed" ;) . I love that display!
Regards,
Fred Bonatto
Beautiful!
Very nice AMG pics. I don't know why, but I've never been able to truly appreciate the AMG version of this watch. Perhaps it's the red that throws me off a bit, but your pictures put it in a different perspective for me! Thanks!!
Caseback
Whichever 'Ingenieur" designed that cam and valve relationship needs to be sacked!!
Great Review, Fred...
A pleasure read it. Great job...
This Ingenier is really a impressive watch. One of the watches I have in my mind.
Now, I can love it more after reading your review.
Congrats and thanks for sharing, Fred.
Best.
Emilio.
Twice be a lucky......
Fred,
Obrigado para o relatório excelente.
Thank you for the excellent report.
The love shines through but I worried that you had to lose it once and found ANOTHER
Regards,
MTF
It was unfortunate
But I made about 800 bucks profit on the deal so it was very hard to pass up!
Thanks for sharing Fred. Truly enjoyed your review.
Thanks for sharing Fred. Truly enjoyed your review.