Spangles - Dr. Tabby
5595
The CEO has seen sales increase a large amount over the last years, even when the industry as a whole struggled.
Their plans were that this line would be, at best, 20% of sales, which would take time to achieve. In spite of the cries of watch nerds, there is a lot potential here. So, no I don't think he'll be resigning.
So the new AP Code11.59 line is out
Introducing: CODE 11.59 By Audemars Piguet (VIDEO) https:// www.hodinkee.com g And we have a new integrated column wheel chronograph at last Maybe it will see it’s way to the RO line later
I just saw the CODE 11.59 release . . .
. . . and there's much to digest: 13 models, 6 movements including 3 that are new from the ground up. As with all things AP, it's best not to rush to judgment. But I'll say this right now, the case and lug design are exceptional. BTW, all models are 41mm ...
Movements and case top notch, rest absolutely garbage.
Seems like AP focused all their creativity in the case and had nothing in mind for the dials. Why are they considered as holy trinity again?
I am trying to understand
What all the fanfare in their teaser campaign was about. Why did their suppliers told them they were crazy? Why did they have to push the limits of watchmaking? What was all the struggle and the resulting 'Eureka!' moments for? I was hoping we would see s...
+1. If this is pushing the limits of watchmaking then..
...AP should accept, like Panerai with the Luminor and Radiomir, the Royal Oak and RO Offshore is really their only offering of interest. Their dial design with the date at 4.30 is somewhat lacking against others high end brands in the price point.
The new chronograph movement with jumping minutes is really amazing
These watches are going to be very desired by athletes and celebs. Production is very limited initially. They will become a thing to have, and it will spread from there. I can imagine a steel version on a rubber strap that would be very appealing
Please do not get me wrong and judge from my nickname
But how the hell the chrono movement is amazing? I mean they say they're driven by complications and the first in-house chrono that came in 2019 (!) looks like some 70s chronograph. I love watchmaking before any brand and have huuugee respect for AP; that...
In house instantaneously jumping minutes, column wheel chronograph
Ask yourself who else does that?
Is it really instant-jump? Appears not in video (see screenshots)
Screenshot from the video on Hodinkee. ...
From these screenshots..
..it looks like the minute counter is indeed progressing linearly. Not only it doesn't jump instantaneously, but not even semi-instantaneously a la Primero, Piguet, Valjoux 7750, etc.
Well, if true, that would be a real disappointment
The promotional materials suggest otherwise by saying it’s a jumping minute chronograph. Also, while I suspect that this line will be very popular with athletes and celebs (and that may generate sales) the market trend these days really favors steel sport...
Sadly it is sweep minutes, not jump
They had 20 years to respond to the Datograph and clearly decided it wasn't worth it.
Do we view this as an answer to the Dato?
In construction and finishing I see it much more as an answer to the Rolex 4130, JLC 751, and as a way to replace the FP 1185 with something they can really call “in-house.” What do you think?
Perhaps more details of the new calibers will emerge in due time..
But for now the only reason the CEO mentions for creating the new chrono caliber is because people wouldn't stop bugging him for it. So yes, now they can put this new movement in their chrono models and say 100% in-house.
Talking about instant date jump
AP talks about instantaneous date jump and not counter hands
Very disappointing
The only thing of significance here for me is the introduction of the new chronograph movement, which is LONG overdue. Unfortunately I think the new watch design is unattractive and the dial gives it the look of a cheap fashion watch. I'm a big fan of AP ...
A failure of trying to create a new icon and escape from Royal Oak
The dial design is very boring. Sorry AP.
Huge disappointment ...
I even thought it was a fake news at the beginning.... It looks like a Daniel wellington++... Anyway hopefully others will be more tolerant than me on their new line. For me I’ll stick to the RO Kev
Good job they are keeping the production numbers low for the first year
If they are lucky, that will be all they will sell. They should stick to what they do best; RO.
There's a lot to take in, and I agree sometimes it takes a few days or weeks or longer for us to really see and appreciate something new like this.
From what I've read, and seen in picture and video, there's much to like. I think the case is interesting, and appealing. The work/thought on the crystal is a nice addition. They have, whether they are good enough or not, introduced a bunch of new calibre...
Jay, your comments are spot on for me.
I expect the negativity here, that is what many new members bring. We are far from the old days. We can all have our own opinions, but to call something like this "garbage", it is laughable. "Consider the source", one of my Dad's favorite expressions. Bac...
Well said.
Reactions to releases like this make me want to turn my phone off for the duration of SIHH. It’s so easy for people to be negative on social media about a release like this with their own objective taste in watches, not to mention the majority of those ba...
I credit AP, or any company, for pushing forward and trying something new.
They state it themselves, they want to dare and not stand still. I applaud the moxie. How easy would it be for this brand to only sell Royal Oaks and Royal Oak Offshores? This new collection excites me. Again, I see oodles of opportunity. And AP does pay ...
For me this collection looks like they tried to accomplish something new but couldn't resist to stay away from the mighty Royal Oak.
It just confirms that they're too dependant on that particular line. Not exactly what I'd describe as "pushing forward and trying". Also the marketing was really awkward, which created lots of the negativity. The limited perpetual calender with the aventu...
This sub-thread of balanced and reasoned takes on the new watch line are why I enjoy watchprosite.
The posts of "oh AP is finished as a brand/these watches are just like [insert cheap brand]/woe is me" are everywhere.
You know, I like the case a lot. When I saw the teaser pictures showing the cutout lugs I was already somewhat intrigued.
The RO design cue, I am 100% good with. It was in my opinion an nicely thought out way to do this. The Royal Oak IS their brand right now whether they or we like it and so I think (especially when it's a positive, which the RO clearly is) the. use it, don...
I understand your point of view but for me it's not way to think in this case.
He literally said they wanted to push forward and show that they're not just Royal Oak, yet the case band includes the Royal Oak. To say it in the words of Steve Hallock: "AP tried to look innovative without innovating, to take no risk.". Sometimes it's b...
I don't think the 11.59 is replacing the millenary
It's replacing the Jules Audemars Line of dress watch
The fact that they are trying to diversify away from the RO / ROO is certainly to be applauded...
Whether the result is all everybody expected - well looking at the responses, probably not. Yet as you say it’s early days and not all buyers are collectors - meaning tastes may differ. I feel they can be applauded for keeping the cases reasonably sized a...
It may be that with time, more exposure, seeing them in the metal etc that these dials have something we don't see right now.
Also to me, the largest and most crucial knowledge gap that many of us on these forums have is the understanding of the average buyer for these brands. Purists won't make or break these watches.
Me? No. It's 41mm, too big for my wrist I would think.
But that's clearly not a factor for the broader watch buying public as every brand is telling us people want larger. Ummm, except Panerai who are being told by those people that they want smaller!!!
With the current dials as shown, no.
But if I could design my own chronograph dial? Absolutely! BTW, have you seen the Supersonnerie? I would take that as is, stunning.
Yes I have
Not to my taste, but a cool design exercise. When it comes to RO chronographs my preference would be an old one. With the square indexes. But those hexagon crown and pushers remain an ergonomic nightmare. Especially when one has Sasquatch hands/fingers......
Certainly full agreement here, as you know :-)
We had a good thread recently on the 39mm ROC collection. How interesting to see AP offer 38mm this year. But still without a spectacular dial like the older ones. ...
Question...
Michael, has there ever been this much interaction with a single post in such a short period of time?
In my opinion...
I think most people only have issues with the dials, esp the chrono and time only dials, with their uncanny resemblance to "undesirable" brands such as DW or MVNT etc.. ( aka mall watches ). This can be easily fixed in future releases. The case for one ap...
Totally agree with your points. The dials are not specially exciting, but that can change, in the future. The case is not bad looking at all, I find the movements of the tourbillon and the
Chrono very nice looking... Let's wait a bit and see... Best, Nicolas
I am with you, Ben. Lot's of over-reaction here, but this is common for modern internet forums.
Everyone has to get on record, many need to be the attention-getter and enjoy negativity. In the early days of thePuristS, most every name in this thread was not here, and the general spirit was very different. But, everyone is entitled to an opinion, and...
Oh dear
.....this is so so much worse in many respects than VC’s '56 moment' or PP's new 24. Aesthetic opinions vary, and I have not seen these in the flesh……but one has to only look at a dial here and swallow back the bile. What are AP thinking? These have nothi...
At least they have new calibres, unlike those other collections.
I agree that they missed an opportunity by burying this news in the launch of this collection, but perhaps they didn't want to rehash the fact that they waited this long to introduce a chronograph. Design aside, which I think could become something cool, ...
Thanks for your thoughts guys. Could you help me understand the finishing issues?
I see on hodinkee, the tourbillon finishing is good, right? ...
Sure!
Yes, to my eye the finishing on the Tourbillon is very good. While anglage is not the totality if finishing, it does give some idea of what’s going on. In this case I see nice anglage and corners. If course, this is an AP R&P movement and and is even ...
AP CEO to staff:
Everyone loves a simple 12-3-6-9 dial. Let's make a dress watch with lacquered dial and those arabics. But don't forget, it must be big diameter case, thick case, have no water resistance AND it must have a hole punched in the dial for a date, because I h...
The CEO has seen sales increase a large amount over the last years, even when the industry as a whole struggled.
Their plans were that this line would be, at best, 20% of sales, which would take time to achieve. In spite of the cries of watch nerds, there is a lot potential here. So, no I don't think he'll be resigning.
That dial with those torally off
numerals ,how much dumped into the R&D ?The lugs are fine ,maybe tge new chrono will fit into a ROO case otherwise all the efforts were wasted.
I really like the case and lugs design.
This line is clearly not meant to be a common classic watch line. The case diameter and thickness make it more a sporty dress watch line. Given the popularity of sports/sporty watches, this might prove to be a clever move even though a lot of people here ...
I don't see anything classic, and I say it with regret
The chrono looks busy... I can imagine the case is gorgeous but... the dial? Meh. Not departing from the mundane-ordinary. The time /date looks like a 'whatever' JLC... (case probably inanely gorgeous, but crucially --dial-- whatever... shocked to see suc...
Interesting developments...will take a lot of perusing to sink in. This luks like a completely new line. A lot of new Calibres introduced like that flying tourbillon with centre rotor. At...
...last they got into enamel dials. Wonder if all this is done completely in-house. Case, dials, x2 curved crystals, crowns, calibres all are new development.
Most of the negative comments here are on the enamel dials.
Doesn’t really look special.
