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Baselworld/SIHH

Baselworld 2010: Balmain Swiss Watches - By Melvyn Teillol-Foo

 

Before I got to Basel, all I knew about Balmain was that it was a designer brand in the SWATCH Group portfolio. Regular watchers (sic) of ‘Project Runway’ on television or New York Fashion Week will already be familiar with Pierre Balmain Haute Couture Paris dressing of royalty and movie stars of the 1940s – 1960s. Advanced fashionistas will even know that Oscar de la Renta took over as director in 1993 and the current director is Christophe Decarnin.  What we didn’t know was how did SWATCH get the brand name?  In 1987, SWATCH was licensed to produce and market watches with the designer’s name. In 1995, SWATCH Group buys the brand name for watch products worldwide.


 







I could not possibly cover all the novelties as Balmain produces hundreds of models in three main lines: Tradition, Downtown and Trendies. The movements are mostly quartz but there are a few automatic movements in the range. About 90% of their range is for women but there are some men’s’ watches as well. As sponsor of the Miss Switzerland contest in recent years, Balmain has also brought out a Miss Suisse collection of watches.





 

NOVELTIES

Arabesques Bijou
The arabesque is more than just a design motif. It is Balmain's signature. The Arabesques Bijou is deeply artistic, with emphasis given to the meanderings even beyond the movement case. The resulting design is a mix of jewel-watch and sculpture. The Maison de St-Imier designers have been inspired over the years by this Arabic art form, frequently using it, on the dials or on the case.









But this season, they have flagrantly displayed it as a sculptural combination of shapes (the roundness of the case and the oval formed by the arabesque structure), textures and the effects of light. The 34 Wesselton diamonds on the case rim - 0.17 carats in all - and the mother-of-pearl dial produce a strong contrast to the black, satin-polished strap.

Technical characteristics
• Case in polished steel 316 L; some models decorated with 34 Wesselton diamonds
• Sapphire crystal
• Choice of dials: black and white mother-of-pearl
• Stainless steel or black satin strap
• Water resistance: 50 m

 


Balmania Chrono Lady
A contraction of ‘Balmain’ and ‘mania’, the Balmainia line was launched in 2006. For 2010, the Maison de St-Imier is presenting its collection in a new light, with an extravagant Chrono Lady version. The case and bracelet have been reworked and are imposing; the weight and feel of the bracelet is by no means 'cheap' despite the affordable price point. The new bezel is now decorated with notches. The left-hand rim gets a logo decorated with two screws. The bracelet has a double-snap clasp for increased comfort and functionality – unusual for a ladies' watch. The sportier, more urban, more outgoing Balmainia Chrono Lady has a variety of options - 34 Wesselton diamonds on the bezel, a black and white mother-of-pearl dial and matching silicon strap.











Technical characteristics
• Case in polished steel 316 L; some models decorated with 34 Wesselton diamonds
• Sapphire crystal
• Choice of dials: traditional silvered arabesques, black lacquered, white mother-of-pearl and black mother-of-pearl
• Stainless steel or black or white silicon strap
• Water resistance: 50 m

 

Conclusion:
This brief sketch is just to capture a flavour of Balmain for our community. I was interested in the trends mirrored by Balmain with titanium rectangular chronographs in 1997, ladies chronographs in 2001 and about half of their ladies watches today are chronographs.

Not every beginner PuristS can start with a multi-million dollar grand complication. At their price point, the construction and feel of the Balmain watches seem good value and some even provide mechanical movements to look at.
Balmain has a name in fashion but is not yet within the perimeter of PuristSPro horology geek-dom.   Still, it is a barometer of fashion trends that may permeate throughout the watch industry and for that, I am ‘watch-ing’ them……


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