Cartier

SJX
[Purist]
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The Tank rolls on - 1920 to 2012

The Cartier Tank is famous. It is arguably the most famous form watch in the world, and often cited as an iconic watch.

First conceived in 1917 by Louis Cartier, legend has it that the Tank was inspired by the tanks that first saw action during the First World War. 1919 was the year the Tank watch was sold commercially and over the next century the Tank has multiplied into dozens and dozens of forms, all different but easily recognisable.

2012 is a big year for the Tank for it saw the introduction of the newest member of the Tank family, the Tank Anglaise. This is the third major modern Tank model, following the Tank Americaine of 1989 (itself an evolution of the Tank Cintree) and the Tank Francaise of 1996.

Tank Anglaise XL 

Actual photos of vintage Cartier watches from the Cartier Collection are nearly impossible to come by, since outsiders are rarely allowed to handle such watches.

But I am happy to present exclusive photos of 12 vintage Tanks (one or two are not formally Tanks), spanning nearly a century, from 1920 to 2002. All of these were on display at Cartier Time Art in Singapore which just closed.

These 12 watches demonstrate the versatility and durability of the Tank design.

As an aside, it's worth noting how case construction for watches in general has improved over the year which is well demonstrated by the Tanks. The design remained the same but the case got much better. The early Tanks were fragile and thin, some so thin that they are nearly impossible to polish. But the modern Tanks have far more robust construction, even when the cases are slim.

Tank Normale, Cartier Paris, c. 1920

Platinum, yellow gold, sapphire, leather strap

A classic Tank but tiny by today’s standards. It is about the same size as the folding buckle on the Santos 100.

Tank, Cartier Paris, c. 1921

Platinum, rose-cut diamonds, satin strap

Tank Louis Cartier, Cartier, c. 1925

Platinum, white gold, sapphire, leather strap

Tank Cintrée, Cartier London, c. 1929

Yellow gold, pink gold, sapphire, leather strap

Sold to Fred Astaire who presented it as a gift.

Tank Cintrée, Cartier Paris, c. 1924

Platinum, yellow gold, pink gold, sapphire, leather strap

Tank Chinoise, Cartier, c. 1930

Gold, sapphire, leather strap

Tank Normale, Cartier Paris, c. 1927

Platinum, pink gold, sapphire

Tank à guichets jumping hours, Cartier Paris, c. 1928

Yellow gold, pink gold, leather strap

Sold to Sir Bhupindra Singh, Maharajah of Patiala.

Tank with eight-day movement, Cartier, c. 1938

Yellow gold, pink gold, leather strap

This is not strictly a Tank due to the case shape; the lugs have a sharp downward curve when viewed from the side. This is one of my favourites because it has an outstanding movement and also it is quite modern in size due to the large calibre.

Reversible “basculante” watch, Cartier Paris, c. 1936

Yellow gold, pink gold, leather strap

Thought Cartier reissued the Tank Basculante in 2000, the original reversible form watch was not a Tank.

Tank Louis Cartier Noctambule, Cartier, c. 2006

Platinum, white gold, sapphire, leather strap

This was a piece unique made for the Cartier Collection. Unusually the bridges of the skeleton movement are coated with Luminova, though the hands are not.

Tank à vis, Cartier, c. 2002

Yellow gold, sapphire, leather strap

Part of the Collection Privee Cartier Paris, this Tank displays two independent time zones.

And 2012 sees the unveiling of the Tank Anglaise. Available only on bracelet and either of three colours of gold for now, though more models will certainly be added in the future. The Tank Anglaise is not my cup of tea, but the heritage is unmistakeable. The Tank rolls on.

- SJX