Patek Philippe

When steel is more expensive than gold...

 

It usually wraps itself around a Patek Philippe movement..

Steel Pateks are coveted by collectors, hardly surprising when you consider their rarity. This year was in my opinion a special year for steel PP afficianados, we saw two amazing releases, the phenomenal steel split and the Nautilus annual calendar.

For collectors and lovers of this house, rare steel PP's often demand sums not just double or triple the price of their gold bretheren but in some cases 1000% or more...

In the 1930's to the 50's we see more steel models than perhaps any other era. the most coveted are the exceptionally rare complications, and then possibly the rare art deco models, such as ref 522.

 

 

(one piece that I let go for the 5970p, sadly)

It was also the time for the steel Calatrava, initially introduced was the famed ref.96, with either subsiduary seconds or centre seconds, with an amazing array of different dials.

 

(picture from internet modifed)

The case size grew during this period and ref.570 was born with a substantive 35-36mm case. Also supplementing the ref.570 are two of the most beautiful Calatarva models ever, the ref 2509 and 2508 with screw backs. Today in steel these are two of the most sought after Calatrava models.

 

Ref.2508

Ref 2509

Ref 570

(pictures from internet)

Another popular Calatrava was the ref.565, also with screw back, and the inspiration for the ref.5565 commemorative model for the opening of the PP salon in Geneve. The model has a distinctive look, as the bezel is melded into the case.

 

ref 5565

ref 565

Ofcourse these steel PP are highly prized and I'm afraid so very expensive, You will be very quickly relieved of your funds and/or collection if you are bitten by these ...

But, even these are relatively affordable when compared to the ultra rare and stratospheric complications in steel...

The most prized are the grand complications, perpetual calendars, exceptionaly rare, either in single figure production or in less then the fingers of one hand..

even finding a picture, is a mission..

 

Perhaps it  is fair to say that the chronograph is the most desired of complications, and this golden era, PP did not dissapoint. Even the existance of a steel PP split seconds! To obtain one...well do not just sell your house, sell the whole street!

the most famous is perhaps the ref.130 and probably the most gorgeous in my opinion the ref.1463

I love the screwback case of the 1463 and the oversized crown. You nee so much more than a princely sum for these jewels, you need a Kings ransom.. but just look at them.. how easy to fall in love..

 

ref 1463 split seconds

ref 1463

ref 130

Maybe the 1463 and 130 are just too common for your rich taste! then try the extremely rare oversized references, the ref.530 (inspiration behind the new 5170) and the very very rare 1579 in steel with gorgeous lugs:

 

ref.1579

ref.530

Alas, the Sixties witnessed a reduction in the steel models, not that PP would not entertain them, but ultra slim gold models were now the king of the wrist. The story goes that one collector took his steel split seconds to Geneva to have it re-cased in gold....because steel was too cheap!

Popular in the 60's was the round case with straight lugs. PP offered the gold and platinum models with date (3445 series I believe), but the steel models were with out date.

Also launched was the now highly desirable ant-magnetic version, known as the Amagnetic.

Perhaps for the first time there was a steel self winding model too, the ref 3466.

 

ref 3417 "Amagnetic"

Ref 3466 Self winding

ref 3483

The 1970's will always be remembered for Philippe Sterns Nautilus. A huge watch for its time, and as PP's own advertising stated , "one of the most expensive watches in the world is made of steel"!

the ref. 3700 Nautilus was derided many, but has gone on to become an icon in the collection giving rise to a whole collection, it was laso at just over 7mm, one the slimmest automatics ever.

 

The 1980's and early 1990's gave us a steel quartz Ellipse, a new smaller Nautilus in steel. But for Calatrava fans , you were fortunate if you were from Japan, as two very special limited editions made their way to the far east..

 

ref 3923

ref 3718 (150th Anniv piece)

The resurgence of steel PP began in the 1990's. This was a very important decade for steel Patek. With the relaunch of the Jumbo Nautilus as the ref.3710 with power (torque) indicator, a new Neptune collection and a special edition for Russian market, know as the Sculpture watch.

It also gave us the first steel serial moonphase in the ref 5085. Patek finally gave us a complication in steel.

 

The Sculpture

ref 5085 rare white dial

ref 5085

Ref 5080 Neptune (with silver, black and salmon dials)

The Neptune was never very popular and its production was very short. I hade one briefly, and looking back actually wish I had kept it, its a really comfortable and slim watch with a good size (36mm).

1997 also gave us the Aquanaut. A new vibrant sports watch witha rubber strap. Initially made in 1000 pieces itwas to appeal to a younger generation. The fact that PP said only 1000 would be made turned it into a highly desirable aquistion, and perhaps defeated the initial raison de etre of this watch as collectors snapped them up.

PP responded with a new unlimted collection ad the a new large size 38mm.

 

Ref 5065 Jumbo Aquanaut

Patek continued the steel complication there in the millenium with a very sought after 3712 Nautilus. It was made for only one year before being replaced with the current 5712.

 

The current collection boasts more steel delicacies than evere before, and the decsion to make the spilt second in steel shows in my opinion the regard PP have for this most unassuming metal!

it is a master piece of course and for the very very lucky few..

 

Today you can have the choice between a sporty steel chrono, a full calendar and a simple complication, as well as the classic Nautilus and the new Aquanaut. Of course, these are never going to be made in huge numbers, so you can assured of exclusivity, it is after all a steel PP!

 

 

We are definately spoileed for choice....BUT, in how much could we do with a classic Caltrava like the days of the golden era in steel....

A  moder Calatrava, tradition with innovation...

lets hope our wishes will come true..

 

 

 

(photo were taken from the internet, and apologies if I have not given credit where its due)

Of course this not all of the steel wonders that have been made , just some of my favorites ..ahhh to win the lotto

Best to all, and keep dreaming of steel!

This message has been edited by imran in london on 2010-11-05 12:23:49