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White metals (updated)
Our dear Ronald Held recently suggested that a thread dedicated to white metals was long overdue. So, here's one.
The list I have compiled is as follows (in “alphabetical” order). It is certainly incomplete: so please feel free to suggest other white metals and I will add to it as we go along: it will be a collaborative effort.
- Aluminium
- Canopus gold
- Nickel
- Palladium
- Platinette
- Platinum
- Silver 925
- Stainless steel
- Carburised steel
- Tantalum
- Titanium
- High-Intensity Titanium
- Titanium & Bulk Metallic Glass (BMG)
- Ceramised titanium
- White gold (rhodium plated)
- White gold (gray gold)
I tried to choose watches that aren't shown too often.
And, of course, tell us which white metal is your favorite!
Best, Emmanuel
Credit to all watches except otherwise mentioned : Monochrome
ALUMINIUM
CENTIGRAPHE SPORT, REF. CTS
credit: A Collected Man
CANOPUS GOLD
OMEGA SPEEDMASTER MOONWATCH PROFESSIONAL CO-AXIAL MASTER CHRONOMETER, REF. 310.60.42.50.02.001
Canopus Gold is a proprietary alloy, made of 75% of gold, 20% of palladium, and 5% of rhodium and platinum.
NICKEL
OMEGA 1920s POCKET WATCH
credit: TrodelTony on Etsy
PALLADIUM
CARTIER TANK MC SKELETON
credit: Equation du Temps
PLATINETTE
INGERSOLL 1920s WRIST WATCH
Inside the case back, the case material is mentioned as “Platinette - Pure white throughout”, the name given for a specific white metal alloy (other companies had their own variations such as silveroid and silverine).
credit: sellingantiques.co.uk
PLATINNUM
DANIEL ROTH TOURBILLON PLATINUM, REF. DAAG01A1
SILVER 925
TUDOR BLACK BAY FIFTY-EIGHT 925, REF. M79010SG-0001
STAINLESS STEEL
IWC PORTOFINO CHRONOGRAPH 39, REF. IW391503
CARBURISED STEEL
FERDINAND BERTHOUD RÉGULATEUR SQUELETTE FB RS
TANTALUM
NICOLAS DELALOYE RENAISSANCE TANTALUM 39MM
TITANIUM
HANHART 417 TI DESERT PILOT LIMITED EDITION, REF. H701L.250-1715
HIGH-INTENSITY TITANIUM
GRAND SEIKO HERITAGE HI-BEAT 36000 GMT 44GS 55TH ANNIVERSARY LIMITED EDITION, REF. SBGJ255
High-Intensity Titanium is the name of an alloy Grand Seiko uses on the vast majority of its titanium-cased watches: this alloy looks closer to steel.
TITANIUM & BULK METALLIC GLASS (BMG)
AUDEMARS PIGUET ROYAL OAK PERPETUAL CALENDAR OPENWORKED 150TH ANNIVERSARY, REF. 26585XT.OO.1220XT.01
CERAMISED TITANIUM
CHOPARD L.U.C TIME TRAVELER ONE BLACK, REF. 168574-3008
WHITE GOLD (RHODIUM-PLATED)
PATEK PHILIPPE ANNUAL CALENDAR REF. 5205G-001
credit: Stories of Time
WHITE GOLD (GRAY GOLD)
VACHERON CONSTANTIN TRADITIONNELLE COMPLETE CALENDAR, REF. 4010T/000G-B740
TITANIUM & BULK METALLIC GLASS (BMG)
AUDEMARS PIGUET ROYAL OAK PERPETUAL CALENDAR OPENWORKED 150TH ANNIVERSARY, REF. 26585XT.OO.1220XT.01
CERAMISED TITANIUM
CHOPARD L.U.C TIME TRAVELER ONE BLACK, REF. 168574-3008
WHITE GOLD (RHODIUM-PLATED)
PATEK PHILIPPE ANNUAL CALENDAR REF. 5205G-001
credit: Stories of Time
WHITE GOLD (GRAY GOLD)
VACHERON CONSTANTIN TRADITIONNELLE COMPLETE CALENDAR, REF. 4010T/000G-B740
White metals (updated)
Our dear Ronald Held recently suggested that a thread dedicated to white metals was long overdue . So, here's one . The list I have compiled is as follows (in “alphabetical” order). It is certainly incomplete : so please feel free to suggest other white m...
I honestly like all of them, but…
that AP perpetual is my favorite of the bunch👍. The FB is a strong second.
Good choice!
These two watches are not my kind because I don’t respond to the openwork aesthetic, but of course I understand their appeal. Best, Emmanuel
I’m not big on openwork either.
I’ve actually never owned one, but I would make an exception for that AP perpetual and the VC perpetual in white gold. The 4300V/220G-B946. 👍
What a selection of special watches....
But, I got to admit, if I could just grab one and not look back, it would have to be the F.B. - that octagonal case with the movement and spectacular finishing/details would keep my love affair going endlessly
I love the octagonal case, but the open dial not so much.
Delaloye or VC for me here. Best, Emmanuel
That, I totally agree on....
which, fortuitously, can be relatively easily ameliorated (image credit: Hodinkee).... ...
Nice,
but a lot of empty space on the dial. Having said that I still prefer it to the open dial.
A deliberate design choice inspired by the marine chronometers....
Berthoud himself made.... I find that type of negative space play in all forms of art quite compelling....
For Vetnov, and whomever else might not be familiar with how one of the original marine chronos Berthoud made looked....
Here's a picture of marine chronometer number 6 from 1777.... ...
Great idea
Great Idea; I really like the AP and the VC A propos metals: maybe distinguish between the various grades of titanium? Maybe also between the white gold (with coating) likepatrk before 2000 vs the grey gold (massive, no coating) like patek after 2007? Bes...
Yes, I’ll try to enhance the post with these differences
but it involves some research! I like the VC very much too: the front more than the back though. Best, Emmanuel
The Journe CB in tantalum is sublime
It’s blue - grey The Delaloye is a nice watch but the tantalum looks less blue So a weak spot for the tantalum journe But … platinum is sooooo good I think I like all the material you mentioned 😀
The CBleu is very special indeed.
A true and legitimate icon and grail. From the selection above it’s the VC I like most, but only the front, not the back. As for platinum, my 5098 is all I need ;-) Best, Emmanuel
Yes, they’ve done a wonderful job.
And as I prefer rear tourbillon I would be happy with a time only. Best, Emmanuel
I don’t usually like open dials but I love AP perpetual calendars.
Two questions. 1. I don’t see the usual arrow hand pointing to the weeks on the periphery of the AP dial. Does the weeks ring rotate on this one? 2. The architecture on the Hanhart chronograph movement looks similar to what I have seen on the upcoming Pur...
The week pointer is hidden behind the minute hand.
Here's another photo, which I should have chosen in the first place. The movement of the Hanhart is a Sellita AMT5100 M. The movement of the Lebois & Co is Caliber LC-450 which has been developed and made by Manufacture La Joux-Perret S.A. in La Chaux-de-...
I think what both movements have in common is that
they are originally automatic movements which have been modified to manual winding and from which the rotor has been removed.
Thanks.
With the circular inner elevated plate and the blued column wheel similarly positioned the movement architectures looked very similar to me.
The Delaloye is a Joy ❤️, I would add an Aluminum Alloy and Nickel Alloy to your list
F.P. Journe Centigraphe Sport Source: A Collected Man Ingersoll Wrist 1915 ...
Very nice selection
I Have a soft spot for Titanium and Steel. I like the idea of platinum but in practice I have found it to look a bit cold for my liking. I love the blue tint of tantalum. I find it quite interesting that not so long ago stainless steel was considered a pr...
Yes, very true: steel may seem pedestrian today,
but it was a huge improvement over nickel, etc. Best, Emmanuel
It is between titanium and tantalum for me!
Titanium is so nice to wear because of how light and comfortable it is but tantalum is so cool looking, love the blueish hinge to it ! I think if an option pladium would be nice but haven't come accross it much lol great selection of watches too and like ...
Yes, it’s the best Origin, imo,
and one of the very appealing LF. But my absolute personal grail remains the yellow gold Tourbillon. Best, Emmanuel ...
I suggest adding palladium to the list
While not so popular these days, I do recall Cartier making a number of models available in palladium - Santos, Cle and Pasha come to mind. I think this material was also used by Parmigiani and MB&F. Also, this might be technicality, but should white ...
We might add white titanium
It’s a special alloy from Grand Seiko which looks more like gold but is definitely light & white ...
Great suggestions, thank you!
I updated the post with palladium and a distinction between rhodium-plated WG and gray gold. Best, Emmanuel
Favorite is any high polish TI that looks like steel
The GS you posted is a good example. De Bethune's high polish titanium on the db28 is great too. Unless it's on a sportswatch, I dont love the dark dark grey of normal TI. Prefer high polish.
Yes, it’s a way of getting the best of both worlds:
lightness and the look of steel. Best, Emmanuel
All metals have their own characteristics and charme imho
Would love to own a Tantalum at some point or when possible a combination with rose gold . Love that two tone combo.