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The Seamaster Cortina and its lineage
During my visit to the Omega boutique in Geneva, I also tried on the Seamaster 37 mm Milano Cortina 2026, ref. 522.53.37.20.04.001.
Being aware of its rich history and knowing that it has a white Grand Feu enamel dial, I expected to like it a lot.
This watch is indeed a direct descendant of the Seamaster XVI ref. 2850SC made in 1956 for the 16th Summer Olympic games in Melbourne, Australia.
It featured the same “dog leg” lugs and sculptured indexes and came in two versions, both measuring 34 mm diameter:
- The pre-commercial version bore the Olympic Cross of Merit on the dial as well as on the solid caseback.
- The commercial version had an applied “XVI” at 6 o'clock.
credit: Deployant (pre-commercial version) & Benjamin Marcello (commercial version) - Wikipedia (XVIth Olympiad)
Omega released a first reissue of the Seamaster XVI in 2008 to coincide with the 29th Summer Olympic Games in Beijing.
It was called the “Seamaster XXIX” and featured a 37 mm case and an applied “XXIX” at 6 o'clock on the dial.
The ref. number of this model ranged from 516.53.37.20.09.008 to 516.53.37.20.09.024 as the 88 pieces were sold during one single day each, from August 8 to 24, 2008.
credit: ceecan.com
This iconic design with “dog leg” lugs was also used on certain “pie pan” Constellation models, like this 34 mm no-date ref. 14900 SC from 1963:
Or this 34 mm date ref. 168.005 from 1966:
credit: omegaenthusiastltd.com
As you can see, given this very interesting lineage, I really expected to love the Seamaster Cortina.
And I certainly appreciated that they have removed the applied Roman Olympics number, allowing for a cleaner dial (the 2026 Cortina edition is the 25th of the Winter Olympics).
However, unfortunately, the “dog leg” lugs and sculptured hour markers, felt too angular and a bit quirky to me.
Also the watch didn't sit very nicely on my wrist, the lugs “floating” a bit strangely above it.
I think that, even if it includes the box-shaped crystal, the case thickness of 11.35 mm doesn't feel right for such a 37 x 45 mm case.
credit: Fratello
It's a real pity because this design is distinctive and I would have liked it to work better on the wrist.
As I forgot to take photos of the caseback and buckle, here are two provided by Fratello.
credit: Fratello
As a conclusion, I would say that I was disappointed to be disappointed.
But I would be very interested in reading your thoughts on this “dog leg” lugs design and on this specific model.
Thanks for reading.
Best, Emmanuel
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The Seamaster Cortina and its lineage
During my visit to the Omega boutique in Geneva , I also tried on the Seamaster 37 mm Milano Cortina 2026 , ref. 522.53.37.20.04.001. Being aware of its rich history and knowing that it has a white Grand Feu enamel dial, I expected to like it a lot. This ...
What a fantastic post, Emmanuel!👏👏👏
This was a piece I was also seriously considering: Similar to you, I really wanted to love it. But as we have both probably learned in this journey it that you can’t force that emotional connection to a timepiece. But it’s also a great reminder to withhol...
Thank you so much! I'm glad and sorry at the same time
that we felt the same way about this watch. And, yes, it's a clear reminder to always try on a watch before considering buying it. Have a great Friday too! Best, Emmanuel
I would love to try it on someday…
But fully understand your feeling and especially the thickness seems more of a result of using existing components. And here Omega could certainly do better… On pictures it looks nice but it’s the fit on the wrist that is the main question 👍🏻
I will maybe try it on again on another occasion,
but I wasn’t convinced this time and was sad not to be…
Thank you for this report as it does indeed look nice.
But as you so rightly say and especially after Mach echoed your reservations on its size and comfort on the wrist it is for sure one that needs to be tried on prior to purchase. Marc
Absolutely. And I will probably try it on again
on another occasion because I want to like it. But I wasn’t convinced clearly not convinced this time, unfortunately. Best, Emmanuel
The rarest of the vintage Seamaster XVI . . .
. . . was featured on this forum eighteen years ago. This was a specially ordered SM XVI by the Canadian agent with a gold - likely lacquer, possibly solid - dial. My recollection of the private messages exchanged with the owner is that either the origina...
Thank you so much for sharing these very rare and special pieces, Art!
This gold Seamaster XVI looks good but I wonder if I don’t prefer the regular commercial version (with a correct hexagonal crown, unlike the examples I’ve shown). As for this 2008 Olympic Seamaster, it looks wonderful. I’m not really surprised that none o...
The dial should be solid gold
The dial in the presented watch is most likely made of solid gold. I have one in rose gold - will show it in a separate thread about these dials You stated: "Note the original hexagonal crown. All original SM XVI were issued with this unique crown; I don'...
You're right, Erich - I'd forgotten about ref 2984 . . .
. . . employing the hexagonal crown. I once owned the chronometer variant ref 2989 but don't believe they were issued with hexagonal crowns even though they shared cases with 2984. Here are images of a steel ref 2989 Bill Sohne found . . . . . . with a ty...
And you are right to like yours: as I said, I would have loved to
find this watch a good fit for my wrist because I like its distinctive design and lineage. Would you share some pics of your watch with us? Best, Emmanuel
It looks very nice: thanks for sharing!
Show us the JR too when you can. Best, Emmanuel
Finally a true Omega dress watch in gold!
I really like this one and Omega went back to its core dress watch roots for this model.
Yes, this watch is very appealing.
Unfortunately, the feel on the wrist wasn’t as great as I expected. Best, Emmanuel
I understand...
I understand your disappointment... IMO the watch is too large, the proportions don´t feel right. Due to its size it does not sit comfortably on the wrist. 2 of the vintage Olympic watches you showed in the beginning of your thread have awfully wrongly re...
Thank you so much for sharing your in-depth knowledge of these pieces and these photos.
I was naive and trusted the presentation offered on Deployant. Looking forward to reading your posts. Thanks again. Best, Emmanuel