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Patek Philippe

Great post and discussion - thank you! This is a fatastic example of how accumulation of knowledge can lead to deeper appeciation. Yet following narratives is not always easy ...

 

PP is not the company that it was 20, 30, let alone 50 years ago. The scale, the customer base, the global market penetration make it a completely different animal. Mr Thierry Stern has the incredibly hard job of managing a (mostly) large production high-end luxury brand that raises quality, tries to innovate and at the same time maintains a connection with the glorious past.

As consumers and (sometimes) contributors to the healthy margins that PP collects we have the right to judge the design, the quality, the innovation, but also very importantly examine The Narrative that comes with each new model. I don't think an evaluation of vintage vs contemporary models makes that much sense but I personally find certain widely accepted misconceptions troubling:

- "All PP vintage models are special and significant in some way and should be appreciated" : This is not the case - a lot are indeed iconic (PP has been at the top for so long for a reason), some are bad designs, many fall into a grey area where everything is very subjective and opinions change with fashions. Sometimes knowledge makes us appreciate certain references more, sometimes less.

- "As long as there is an obvious connection between a new model and historical one, the dna has been carried over." : There are infinite ways to design a perpetual calendar-chronograph while borrowing clues from 1518 but that is not enough. If there are compromises, if there is no harmony, no continuity, then there is no dna. PP has been better than most in that respect but it hasn't been perfect.        

- "If something is called an innovation then it must be one." : Most of the time PP is playing catch up with the industry on the technical side. The date safety mechanism on 5164, the compliant mechanism of 5650, silicon escapement / balance.... Now PP might have had reasons to wait, it is possible that what is on offer is not only different but better / more reliable. I haven't seen much evidence for that coming from the company. It is too easy to say "this is an innovation because we are doing it at PP for first time" and end the discussion there.

The bottom line is that we all want PP to make great watches. I think we should ask hard questions and occasionally disagree. Being respectful to different tastes is not the same as complacency.

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