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Patek Philippe

Interesting project!

 

5196P is a gorgeous piece. 


A few years ago I had one in my collection but let it go to another Purist who I hope still enjoys it... Why sell? Well I found it too dressy for my lifestyle and had other projects to finance. These days I have come to appreciate the casual potential of the 5196P all the more. When fitted to the right strap it can easily become a really cool casual piece to wear. Saw this recently which I thought was a cool look, even though I like the beat up spirit I would probably struggle to let mine get that much character personally... (pic credit bob maron):








The other thing that bothered me somewhat was the 215 movement. I thought it was too plain and boring for a watch at this price point. A few years later I probably have more oversight on this as relative value in wristwatches is an irrational concept. One likes what one likes and then efforts to justify choices can all be out the window if the overall feeling of joy towards any given timepiece is there. A mechanical time only movement is generally not that exciting anyhow. 

However, in terms wear I did find it wore a bit large relative to its height (or lack of should I say?). I generally find 40mm timepieces to be optimal for my wrist I might add. The thin profile and 
shape of case makes the 37mm feel considerably larger. One mm less could have been a bit better in my opinion... but this is naturally a highly subjective point as we all like to wear them differently. However it is one of the reasons I did let it go... 

Attached an old photo of what used to be in my collection, fitted with a glossy custom made strap which I thought made it look less formal than the supplied very formal and glossy crocodile strap:




Now, if I was to add a modern (post 1990) Calatrava today what would my wish list look like? The 5522A is fantastically cool but unfortunately not something I have an opportunity to acquire at any reasonable cost. If we exclude that my immediate thought would come to 5565A. 

5565A I have never had the opportunity to handle in the real so reserve judgement on that. But on paper it looks superb. Drawback being the 215 movement, but a steel two-tone dial homage to 565A is something I think would be worn by me with great joy! Yes not Breguet numerals and it does have lume on dial. But this makes it cool in my opinion. Also at 36mm slightly smaller than 5196. 

Another modern Calatrava I find appealing, but with completely different character is the newly released 6006G. Personally think a piece that is not getting the attention it deserves. It is quite different from its predecessor the 6000G (which with its anthracite dial I also do find very appealing for that matter). The dial on the updated release is far more alive than the black dial 6000G and the updated size feels very balanced on the wrist. It is a piece I could see myself going for in that space I must admit. 

Now having said that I do not think you will regret should you pursue a 5196P. It is a marvel to wear. So thin and elegant. When I look back on the photo I posted of my long gone 5196P I somewhat miss it... terrible idea to look at pictures of old exes wink

My aim with this ramble was merely to confuse so hope I did not do too well.

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