amanico[JLC Moderator]
400227
A quick view on the Breguet Type 20 " 250Th Anniversary ".
Mr Emmanuel Breguet kindly allowed us to handle some watches from the 250th anniversary collection, and among them, the new Type 20 in gold, with a black and a silver dial.
I will kill any suspense right now, the new Type 20 is much more my taste than those unveiled in 2023, which had a too big case and a date which killed the dials.
For the new Type 20, Breguet opted for a 38, 3 mm case, in a gold alloy which gives a hue between yellow and rose, which is really eye-catching. The thickness is 13, 1 mm, which seems important on the paper, less in reality. Like the case size, which looks a bit bigger in person. A very good point. The water resistance here is 50 meters.
As for the movement, or should I use the plural as there are two, I have mixed feelings. The good thing is that it is manual winding, but my concern lies in the fact that the too prominent plate hides a lot of parts of the calibre. It is a 5 Hertz calibre, with a good autonomy of 60 hours. The Cal 7278 has a 30 minutes chronograph counter, while the 7279 has a 15 minutes counter. This is the main difference. Both of these chronographs are flyback.
The two dials give to each of them their own personality, The aluminum black dial is moer vintage with its deliciously and so typical oversized minutes chronograph counter. Very faithful to the vintage Type 20 in gold ( a rarity as there are only 3 known, according to Breguet ), this combination offers a superb contrast. The only flaw? The hands are too large, and it is even worse on the silver dial.
The silver dial is made of solid silver, looks less Type 20, in my opinion, and it doesn't have this oversized minutes counter... You got it, my favorite clearly is the black dialed version.
Two last differences: The numerals on the bezel. The Black dialed version has black lacquer on its bezel, while the Silver has blue numerals which is a common point with the rare vintage Type 20 in gold!
The 250th side by side with the rare bird vintage Type 20 in gold:
The last information is that the Silver dial is limited to 250 pieces, while the black is a regular production.
You got it, my favorite among these two is the black dialed one... Till we will probably see a steel version, even closer to our beloved vintage Type 20. Stay tuned...
Best,
Nicolas