Comments:
The Breguet gold case, measuring 39 x 9.9 mm, fits nicely on the wrist.
This reference is a numbered 250-piece limited edition.
The case has a 3-part construction with polished surfaces and hand-guilloché “Quai de l’Horloge” middle.
The offset oscillating weight is openworked with a large B logo, which I'm personally not fond of.
The bridges of the movement are hand-engraved with the so-called “Turgot” map depicting the Quai de l’Horloge, where Abraham-Louis Breguet’s workshops were located.
The dial design is inspired by the Régulateur à Tourbillon, ref. 1176, created in 1809, which is displayed in the Paris Boutique.
Hands-on with 3 Classic Breguet
Classique Phase de lune 7235 ref. 7235BH/0H/9V6
Among the 250th Anniversary releases that succeeded to the Souscription, this one caught my eye because of its beautiful dial.
The Breguet gold case, measuring 39 x 9.9 mm, fits nicely on the wrist.
This reference is a numbered 250-piece limited edition.
The case has a 3-part construction with polished surfaces and hand-guilloché “Quai de l’Horloge” middle.
The calibre 502.3.DRL is a new version of the 502.3 DR.1, a thin automatic movement with an off-centred rotor used in ref. 7137.
The offset oscillating weight is openworked with a large B logo, which I'm personally not fond of.
The bridges of the movement are hand-engraved with the so-called “Turgot” map depicting the Quai de l’Horloge, where Abraham-Louis Breguet’s workshops were located.
Classique Régulateur à Pivot Magnétique 7225, ref. 7225BH/0H/9V6
I was also very keen to try on this other impressive novelty.
The dial design is inspired by the Régulateur à Tourbillon, ref. 1176, created in 1809, which is displayed in the Paris Boutique.
It was Breguet’s 3rd tourbillon watch and the first with a 4-minute tourbillon regulator (instead of the classical 1-minute tourbillon).
Contrarily to its source of inspiration, the dial, in solid Breguet gold, is hand-guilloché with the “Quai de l’Horloge” motif.
The case is a bit large at 41 x 10.7 mm
The Seconde d'observation complication is directly inspired by the Breguet pocket watch no. 4009, a ‘double-seconds “observation” chronograph’, or split-second stop watch, sold on 6 January 1825 to Mr Whaley.
The mid-case is hand-guilloché with the “Quai de l’Horloge” pattern.
The 10 Hz caliber 74SC features a magnetic-pivot regulating system, which nearly eliminates positional error.
Ref. 7225 (left) and 7235 (right).
Measuring 40 x 10.8 mm, this watch sits exactly between the 39 mm 7235 and the 41 mm 7225.
And I have to say that it is my favorite of the three.
For some reason I don't know, the enamel dial and the single hand speak to me even more than the dial and complication of the 7235 and 7225 models.
Ref. 2025 (left) and 7225 (right).
The 3 Hz caliber VS00 is, for me, much more attractive than the other two calibers.
Engraved on the mainspring barrel are some of the words used by Breguet in his 1797 prospectus to describe his souscription watch:
Contrarily to its source of inspiration, the dial, in solid Breguet gold, is hand-guilloché with the “Quai de l’Horloge” motif.
The case is a bit large at 41 x 10.7 mm
At 2 o’clock: a traditional small-seconds is running.
At 10 o’clock: the flyback Seconde d'observation (observation seconds) can be activated and reset to zero with the pusher at 8 o'clock.
At 6 o’clock: a fan-shaped power-reserve indicator.
The Seconde d'observation complication is directly inspired by the Breguet pocket watch no. 4009, a ‘double-seconds “observation” chronograph’, or split-second stop watch, sold on 6 January 1825 to Mr Whaley.
The mid-case is hand-guilloché with the “Quai de l’Horloge” pattern.
The 10 Hz caliber 74SC features a magnetic-pivot regulating system, which nearly eliminates positional error.
The watch is rated to within ± 1 second per day, a specification much tighter than COSC, Master Chronometer, or Qualité Fleurier standards.
Bridges and plates are hand-engraved with a panoramic view of the Vallée de Joux, depicting the Manufacture in Le Chenit, the Lac de Joux, and the Dent de Vaulion rising in the distance.
Bridges and plates are hand-engraved with a panoramic view of the Vallée de Joux, depicting the Manufacture in Le Chenit, the Lac de Joux, and the Dent de Vaulion rising in the distance.
Ref. 7225 (left) and 7235 (right).
Classique Souscription 2025, ref. 2025BH/28/9W6
Finally, I wanted to try on again the Souscription, to get a good sense of how it compares with the other two watches.
My thread from last July describing my first experience with this watch can be found here: Hands-on with the Breguet Classic Souscription.
Measuring 40 x 10.8 mm, this watch sits exactly between the 39 mm 7235 and the 41 mm 7225.
And I have to say that it is my favorite of the three.
For some reason I don't know, the enamel dial and the single hand speak to me even more than the dial and complication of the 7235 and 7225 models.
Ref. 2025 (left) and 7225 (right).
The 3 Hz caliber VS00 is, for me, much more attractive than the other two calibers.
Engraved on the mainspring barrel are some of the words used by Breguet in his 1797 prospectus to describe his souscription watch:
"La disposition du Rouage, l’Echappement, le Régulateur sont si à découvert et si faciles à saisir, que tout observateur attentif peut juger d’un coup d’œil sans rien démonter de l’harmonie du travail."
In English: "The arrangement of the Gear train, the Escapement, the Regulator are so exposed and so easy to grasp, that any attentive observer can judge at a glance, without dismantling anything, the harmony of the work."
For me, the Souscription fully deserves its GPHG 2025 Aiguille d’Or Prize.
For me, the Souscription fully deserves its GPHG 2025 Aiguille d’Or Prize.
What do you think about these watches?
Do you have a favorite?
Thanks for reading.
Best, Emmanuel
Aha!
I would gladly settle for the Souscription, which for me is the most fabulous of the three!
Cheers, Emmanuel
Cheers, Emmanuel
I love all three of them.
For me, it’s ex aequo:
1. The Souscription and the 7225
2. The PC 7235
I ordered the 7225 a few weeks ago, as it felt best on my wrist, and I’m truly impressed by its technical achievements — even though it is priced at roughly double its predecessor.
Best,
Thomas
1. The Souscription and the 7225
2. The PC 7235
I ordered the 7225 a few weeks ago, as it felt best on my wrist, and I’m truly impressed by its technical achievements — even though it is priced at roughly double its predecessor.
Best,
Thomas
Huge congratulations, Thomas!
The 7225 is a wonderful timepiece.
For whatever reason I happen to prefer the Souscription, but I definitely understand why many could prefer the 7225 or even the 7235.
You are going to welcome a major watch in your collection !
Best, Emmanuel
For whatever reason I happen to prefer the Souscription, but I definitely understand why many could prefer the 7225 or even the 7235.
You are going to welcome a major watch in your collection !
Best, Emmanuel
Thanks for posting these beauties!
Of the three, I'm partial to the 7225, mostly because of the mechanics, which I feel are housed better here than in the previous Classique 7727. I'm not so sure about the new cases, but what really makes me smile are engraved plates and bridges on the 7225 and 7235, which revive the practices of the early modern Breguet under Daniel Roth. Bravo!
The 7225 and 7235 are wonderful timepieces.
For whatever reason I happen to prefer the Souscription but it’s just me.
I understand the appeal of the engraved bridges and plates and the guilloche dials are truly stunning.
Best, Emmanuel
I understand the appeal of the engraved bridges and plates and the guilloche dials are truly stunning.
Best, Emmanuel
Same for me, with a preference for the Souscription
which is so special and which has the most appealing movement design (for me, of course).
Best, Emmanuel
Best, Emmanuel
Easily, the Souscription....
Like you pointed out, the other two watches are, in my opinion, too convoluted for their own good, and the inscription on the mainspring cylinder for the Souscription rather ironically emphasizes why I much prefer the execution on it as opposed to the other watches in this comparison........
I couldn’t agree more with you, Filip!
You point out the exact reason why I find the Souscription so appealing.
Best, Emmanuel
Best, Emmanuel
Thank you for sharing. I am 100% with you. The simplicity and beautify of the Souscripton speak to me. Some find it a bit big, but it looks great on your wrist and the proportions work with most wrists.
Even I remembered that it was wearing a bit too large,
but ended up finding it was very ok on my wrist during this second try on opportunity.
The asking price is high and this watch is too close to my L.U.C Quattro Spirit 25, but otherwise I’d be very tempted.
Best, Emmanuel
The asking price is high and this watch is too close to my L.U.C Quattro Spirit 25, but otherwise I’d be very tempted.
Best, Emmanuel
As always, very informative post
How do you feel about the horns vs the traditional straight welded? For some reason, based on pictures only, I might prefer the straight ones on the 7225, 7235. On the other hand, those on the 2025 I think work as they are.
I might need time and hands on experience to warm up to the new horns.
I might need time and hands on experience to warm up to the new horns.
I personally like the new lugs more than
the traditional straight ones, which don’t wear very well on my wrist.
If you have the opportunity to try these watches on, I think you should seize it. It’s the only way to really know how these watches might work (or not) for you.
Best, Emmanuel
If you have the opportunity to try these watches on, I think you should seize it. It’s the only way to really know how these watches might work (or not) for you.
Best, Emmanuel
Great post.
Love all of them, probably would choose the 7225, it might be a bit big though.
Thank you, Derreck!
Yes, the 7225 is a bit large, but it’s wearable even for my 16 cm wrist and it’s a stunning watch (even if I personally prefer the 2025).
Best, Emmanuel
Best, Emmanuel
Thanks for the awesome post.
I’ve always been a huge fan of Breguet, but found their straight lugs unappealing. Looks like Breguet has since worked ok rectifying that, with these sloping and contoured lugs. 7225 is the winner for me
The new lugs definitely improve wearability a lot.
And 7225 is a truly stunning watch, even if it’s a bit large for my smallish wrist and even if I find the Souscription even more appealing.
Best, Emmanuel
Best, Emmanuel
All just a hair too big/thick...
...and the engraving on the back is not to my liking...
The dimensions aren’t completely ideal, I agree.
But, like you apparently, I am more upset by the engraving on the back of 7225 and 7235, which I find a bit gimmicky or anecdotal.
The engraving on the barrel of the Souscription makes sense, though, and I accept it.
Best, Emmanuel
The engraving on the barrel of the Souscription makes sense, though, and I accept it.
Best, Emmanuel
Yes, I would probably prefer if it wasn’t there,
but it wouldn’t prevent from acquiring the watch.