Comments:
The new Urban Jürgensen collection
Here's a photographic overview of the 9 new models of the revived Urban Jürgensen brand.
If you want to compare these new models with some of the previous ones: Overview of some Urban Jürgensen.
credit: monochrome & a blog to watch (one before last only)
credit: a blog to watch
credit: monochrome & a blog to watch (last photo)
credit: monochrome (1) & a blog to watch
2/ Ref. UJ-2-PT-S-001 (platinum, silver dial)
credit: a blog to watch
credit: a blog to watch
credit: a blog to watch
credit: a blog to watch
credit: monochrome (1-3 & 11) & a blog to watch (4-10)
Best, Emmanuel
A/ The UJ-1 Tourbillon - The 250th Anniversary Watch - A watch made to honour the legendary Urban Jügensen Pratt Oval Pocket Watch (dedicated thread here)
Each of the 3 variants is limited to 25 pieces
39.5 x 12.2 mm case
In-house calibre UJ-1, rose gold-plated, 30 x 8.17 mm, 32 jewels, one-minute tourbillon with remontoir d’égalité constant force, flying barrel, Swiss lever escapement, 18,000vph, 47h power reserve
1/ Ref. UJ-1-RG-S-001 (rose gold, silver dial)
credit: monochrome & a blog to watch (one before last only)
2/ Ref. UJ-1-PT-S-001 (platinum, silver dial)
credit: a blog to watch
3/ Ref. UJ-1-PT-G-001 (platinum, grey dial)
credit: monochrome & a blog to watch (last photo)
B/ The UJ-2 - Three-Hand watch with Double-Wheel Natural Escapement
39 x 10.9 mm
In-house calibre UJ-2, rose gold-plated, 30 x 5.5 mm, 32 jewels, free-sprung balance with direct double-wheel escapement, 18,000vph, 52h power reserve, hours, minutes, small seconds
1/ Ref. UJ-2-PT-B-001 (platinum, blue dial)
credit: monochrome (1) & a blog to watch
2/ Ref. UJ-2-PT-S-001 (platinum, silver dial)
credit: a blog to watch
3/ Ref. UJ-2-RG-B-001 (rose gold, blue dial)
credit: a blog to watch
4/ Ref. UJ-2-RG-S-001 (rose gold, silver dial)
credit: a blog to watch
C/ The UJ-3 Double-Wheel Natural Escapement Perpetual Calendar with Instantaneous Moonphase
This model was made in collaboration with Andreas Strehler
39 x 13.9 mm
In-house calibre UJ-3 integrated perpetual calendar, 30mm x 8.1mm, 42 jewels, free-sprung balance with direct double-wheel escapement, 18,000vph, 52h power reserve, hours, minutes, small seconds, perpetual calendar instantaneous jump mechanism at midnight for the indications and the moon, leap year indicator on the movement
1/ Ref. UJ-3-PT-B-001 (platinum, black dial)
credit: a blog to watch
2/ Ref. UJ-3-RG-B-001 (rose gold, black dial)
credit: monochrome (1-3 & 11) & a blog to watch (4-10)
Thanks for sharing!
Very nice dials and movements. Don’t find the short stubby lugs appealing. They also seem to sit akwardly high, making the cases look like hockey pucks (somewhat Dato-esque if that’s a word). Mmm, not convinced by the overall package.
Thickness bothers me too,
but I find the unusual lugs very interesting.
And the tribute-to-the-Oval-Tourbillon is a pure masterpiece: if I could afford it I think I would buy the rose gold UJ-1 without the slightest hesitation despite the thickness.
Best, Emmanuel
And the tribute-to-the-Oval-Tourbillon is a pure masterpiece: if I could afford it I think I would buy the rose gold UJ-1 without the slightest hesitation despite the thickness.
Best, Emmanuel
Honestly, they are all way to thick
I just don’t get it, UJ always have been quite elegant. Not these monstrosities….
And as said before, on top of that, prices do not make sense for “normal “ people.
Just my 2 cents,
Dirk
I understand your point of view, Dirk.
But, for me, the Tourbillon in tribute to Derek Pratt’s Oval pocket watch is a masterpiece and, could I afford it, I would buy the UJ-1 in rose gold. Yes, it’s 12.2 mm thick, but it’s what enables to have such incredible depth in the movement and this wonderful central bridge and flying barrel. Furthermore I’m almost sure that photos make things look worst than they are in reality.
Just my own take on these pieces of course.
Best, Emmanuel
Just my own take on these pieces of course.
Best, Emmanuel
I really like them , need to see them in person first to make a judgement ofcourse.
The thing i dislike is their prices 🫣
Yes, these watches are unaffordable for most of us,
unfortunately, especially the one which is the most important imo, the UJ-1…
Best, Emmanuel
Best, Emmanuel
Yes when I first saw the release I was like whoa these have moved up
Now I know more than just simple movements , but still. Seem a little thick. Plus the hour ring seems off. Nice movement architecture and finishing however !
The UJ-3 is definitely too thick.
And I'm not fond of the UJ-2 either.
But the true masterpiece here, imo, it the UJ-1. For anyone knowing and loving Derek Pratt's Oval pocket watch, this is a masterpiece tribute. And 12.2 mm is a thickness I would personally accept, as it's the condition to have such an incredible Tourbillon with flying barrel and this iconic central bridge.
Could I afford its insane price, I would personally not hesitate to acquire one of the 25 pieces.
Best, Emmanuel
But the true masterpiece here, imo, it the UJ-1. For anyone knowing and loving Derek Pratt's Oval pocket watch, this is a masterpiece tribute. And 12.2 mm is a thickness I would personally accept, as it's the condition to have such an incredible Tourbillon with flying barrel and this iconic central bridge.
Could I afford its insane price, I would personally not hesitate to acquire one of the 25 pieces.
Best, Emmanuel
I personally also like the dial of the UJ-1 very much.
It's the true masterpiece here for me. This tribute Derek Pratt's Oval pocket watch is simply stunning. And 12.2 mm is a thickness I would personally accept, as it's the condition to have such an incredible Tourbillon with flying barrel and the iconic central bridge. I would personally not hesitate to acquire one of the 25 rose gold pieces if I could afford one.
Best, Emmanuel
Best, Emmanuel
I completely agree with you regarding price.
Less regarding size, except for the UJ-3, which is too thick.
But the true masterpiece here, imo, it the UJ-1. For anyone knowing and loving Derek Pratt's Oval pocket watch, this is the best tribute one can dream of. 12.2 mm might seem thick, of course, but I would personally accept it, as it's the condition to have such an incredible Tourbillon with flying barrel and the iconic central bridge.
If money was no object, I'd go for the rose gold UJ-3 without the slightest hesitation.
Just my feeling of course.
Best, Emmanuel
But the true masterpiece here, imo, it the UJ-1. For anyone knowing and loving Derek Pratt's Oval pocket watch, this is the best tribute one can dream of. 12.2 mm might seem thick, of course, but I would personally accept it, as it's the condition to have such an incredible Tourbillon with flying barrel and the iconic central bridge.
If money was no object, I'd go for the rose gold UJ-3 without the slightest hesitation.
Just my feeling of course.
Best, Emmanuel
I understand why you like it, Larry!
But my personal favorite here has to be the UJ-1. The movement (flying barrel, central bridge, tourbillon) is an absolutely wonderful tribute to Derek Pratt's Oval watch, imo.
If money was no object, I would buy the rose gold UJ-1 instantly!
The UJ-2 and 3 appeal to me less (and are just as unaffordable anyway)!
Best, Emmanuel
If money was no object, I would buy the rose gold UJ-1 instantly!
The UJ-2 and 3 appeal to me less (and are just as unaffordable anyway)!
Best, Emmanuel
The whole collection is as awe-inspiring as it is emotionless.
kari is trying to differentiate from its own brand, the watches are great but though they're great execution, I don't see anything new, just new lugs
It's very interesting for me te read how you feel about these new pieces.
I feel differently, though, because the UJ-1 is a big deal for me, a real masterpiece, vibrant homage to the Oval and a major release.
And I like these new short lugs: I'm almost certain they look great in real life.
Just my personal thoughts, fo course.
Best, Emmanuel
And I like these new short lugs: I'm almost certain they look great in real life.
Just my personal thoughts, fo course.
Best, Emmanuel
I've said elsewhere, but...
The lugs are too stubby and don't gel with the rest of the design. The watches except for the time-only are way too thick and ridiculous. The overall design is OK but nothing very special. The movement finish is good and the dials nive, but the price these command is just nuts. I'd wait for the secondary market/used. The guillochage on the caseback is pretty to look at but will accumulate a lot of wrist cheese. This is a pretty poor release, in my opinion—despite the well-done Derek Pratt homage. I'm not saying the brand ought to have continued in the footsteps of Baumberger and Pratt, but this new look does a disservice to them—and that's not a knee-jerk reaction to something being new. Instead, my argument is that this new aesthetic isn't right for these pieces—it just seems rushed instead of considered. For further evidence of this, look at the crowns: they're very basically shaped and are these big, lumbering things. I know manual winds need crowns that aid their winding, but this doesn't look very thought out. It's a shame because I loved UJ's reincarnation with Pratt and Baumberger and then under Petersen and Mojon, until about 2021, I suppose.
Anyway, hopefully they improve their future outputs. In all seriousness, I'll be looking back to the Big 8, Ref. 8, 1140L, and 2240 Jules pieces as the ones to own.
Thank you for sharing your thoughts in such a detailed way.
I find it very interesting, but feel totally differently about them.
I like these new short lugs and am almost sure they look and feel great on the wrist.
I find the UJ-3 too thick, but not the UJ-1, which is a major release for me. It's impossible to get such a depth in the movement, with flying barrel, central bridge and tourbillon with integrated remontoir without a bit of thickness and 12.2 mm seems very reasonable to me.
Could I afford it, I would buy the rose gold UJ-1 without the slightest hesitation. But prices are nuts: on this point I agree.
Thanks again.
Best, Emmanuel
I like these new short lugs and am almost sure they look and feel great on the wrist.
I find the UJ-3 too thick, but not the UJ-1, which is a major release for me. It's impossible to get such a depth in the movement, with flying barrel, central bridge and tourbillon with integrated remontoir without a bit of thickness and 12.2 mm seems very reasonable to me.
Could I afford it, I would buy the rose gold UJ-1 without the slightest hesitation. But prices are nuts: on this point I agree.
Thanks again.
Best, Emmanuel
Missing the incomparable UJ Breguet numerals
No one does Breguet numerals like UJ does.
Why have they dropped this design element?
Likewise, the characteristic hands are now replaced by hands that look as if they have been taken straight from the Breguet workshop.
The new design language overall brings some interesting elements such as the new lugs but discards proven elements of beauty in my humble view.
Thank you for sharing you critical view on these pieces.
I have a different feeling about them. Roman numerals were also very often featured in previous UJ releases and I think the UJ-1 is a major release, a wonderful homage to the Derek Pratt Oval and an incredible watch in itself.
I'm less excited about the UJ-2 (not fond of the dial design) or UJ-3 (too thick and unnecessarily so).
Best, Emmanuel
I'm less excited about the UJ-2 (not fond of the dial design) or UJ-3 (too thick and unnecessarily so).
Best, Emmanuel
Love the hands, dial and movement of the UJ-1's
The hands seem more delicate than what I associate with UJ I will have to look again
But as others are saying, do the have to be that thick?
I definitely agree that the UJ-3 is too thick and unnecessarily so.
But the UJ-2 is ok given the depth of the movement (I'm not excited about it though, because I'm not fond of the dial design).
As for the UJ-1, it's a major release, imo, and given the incredible movement with flying barrel, central bridge and tourbillon with integrated remontoir, I think that 12.2 mm is reasonable. It wouldn't stop me from purchasing the rose gold UJ-1 if I could afford it. But prices are nuts, unfortunately.
Best, Emmanuel
As for the UJ-1, it's a major release, imo, and given the incredible movement with flying barrel, central bridge and tourbillon with integrated remontoir, I think that 12.2 mm is reasonable. It wouldn't stop me from purchasing the rose gold UJ-1 if I could afford it. But prices are nuts, unfortunately.
Best, Emmanuel
Lovely pieces, all 👌🏻🙌🏻👏🏻
And quite a coherent restart for the brand. I know Kari is no fan of thinness and while size wise the watches are not too thick in some pictures they look like sitting quite high on the wrist. One would need to try them live for sure 👍🏻
Thanks for sharing!
I'm sure photos make things looking worse than they are (except for the UJ-3, which really seems unnecessarily thick).
And the UJ-1 is a major release, imo. This homage to Derek Pratt's Oval pocket watch is a pure dream as well as an incredible achievement.
Totally unaffordable, unfortunately, but, could I afford it, I would buy the rose gold UJ-1 instantly.
Best, Emmanuel
Totally unaffordable, unfortunately, but, could I afford it, I would buy the rose gold UJ-1 instantly.
Best, Emmanuel
What a re-launch by UG!
With 3 new models no less…the only aspect I think could be worked on is the lug design….
I'm glad you like some of this re-launch too.
We seem to be few to think that there's more to love than to deplore.
I personally like these new short lugs: very original and I'm sure that they look great on the wrist.
And the UJ-1 is a major release imo. I'm less fond of the UJ-2 (the dial design doesn't have the purity of UJ-1) and of the UJ-3 (which seems unnecessarily thick).
Best, Emmanuel
I personally like these new short lugs: very original and I'm sure that they look great on the wrist.
And the UJ-1 is a major release imo. I'm less fond of the UJ-2 (the dial design doesn't have the purity of UJ-1) and of the UJ-3 (which seems unnecessarily thick).
Best, Emmanuel
I thought proper teardrop lugs would go well…
The RG versions are all attractive which match with the movement color scheme.