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5105
Comparing Two Exceptional Chopard L.U.C Pieces: The Poinçon de Genève L.U.C 1860 vs. the L.U.C Qualité Fleurier . . .
L.U.C 1860 – A Refined Classic Revisited
IMHO, Chopard has been knocking it out of the park for the last few years. The L.U.C 1860 was unveiled during Watches & Wonders 2023—a re-introduction that draws inspiration from the original iconic 1860 model.
This elegant L.U.C 1860 features a stainless steel case (their proprietary Lucent Steel) with a diameter of 36.5mm, a thickness of 8.2mm, and a lug-to-lug length of 44.5mm. The case is vertically brushed with a polished upper surface and bezel.
It comes on a grey calfskin leather strap and features a stunning gold salmon dial with a hand-engraved guilloché finish—and to the delight of Nico (and many purists), there’s no date window to disrupt the dial’s balance.
Powering it is their in-house COSC-certified Calibre L.U.C 96.40.L, beating at 28,800 vph with a power reserve of 65 hours. It’s wound by a 22k gold micro-rotor, also decorated with guilloché, and is Geneva Seal certified—a hallmark of exceptional finishing.
One thing I’ve come to realize: sometimes you need to revisit a piece a few times before you fully appreciate what a brand has accomplished. I had the chance to handle the L.U.C 1860 at a boutique event in June 2023, but my attention (and wallet) was focused on the equally stunning Alpine Eagle XPS.
Later, after revisiting my photos, I began to admire the L.U.C 1860 more and more. Chopard truly poured exceptional craftsmanship into this dial. The use of white gold for the dauphine hands, indices, and surrounding elements—sub-dial, hour sector, and minute track—is nothing short of spectacular.
That said, I did notice one small design quirk: the empty space beneath the sub-dial feels slightly unresolved, especially without a date window. A small marker or visual element here could have helped balance the dial.
L.U.C Qualité Fleurier – Technical Excellence in a Daily Package
Unveiled during Watches & Wonders 2024, the discreet L.U.C Qualité Fleurier offers a more contemporary take on the L.U.C line.
Again, Chopard utilizes its proprietary Lucent Steel in a 39mm case, 8.92mm thick, with a lug-to-lug length of 46.5mm.
It comes on a brown calfskin strap (which reminds me of the Omega CK 859 strap) and features a striking silver sector dial. And yes— again, no date, to Nico’s and many enthusiasts' satisfaction.
Under the hood, we find the in-house Calibre L.U.C 96.09-L, beating at 28,800 vph (note: some early materials may have listed this incorrectly), with a 65-hour power reserve. It’s COSC-certified and also carries the Qualité Fleurier certification—a rigorous standard that tests for timekeeping, shock resistance, finishing, and overall reliability. Founded in 2001 by Chopard, Parmigiani, Vaucher, and Bovet, the Fleurier Foundation has become an elite badge of mechanical quality. As far as I know, Chopard is now the only brand still actively submitting watches for this certification (photo courtesy of Monochrome).
Although I absolutely love the 1950s-style welded lugs and the syringe-shaped hands, I was initially let down by the silver dial and rather uninspiring strap. But as we all know, straps are easy fixes—the boutique even offered me alternatives.
Still, I wished there were more dial color options. That said, after spending more time with the piece, I began to appreciate the dial’s contrast and texture in different lighting. And unlike the 1860, there’s a subtle indice beneath the sub-dial, which gives the overall layout a better sense of visual balance.
Final Impressions
During Watches & Wonders 2025, I had the rare opportunity to compare these two exceptional timepieces side by side at the NYC boutique.
I’ve avoided discussing prices until now, but it’s important to note that these watches aren’t exactly entry-level. As of today:
- The L.U.C 1860 retails for $25,800 USD
- The L.U.C Qualité Fleurier comes in at $20,300 USD
I've been looking for a refined dress watch, and the L.U.C 1860 clearly fits the bill. I rarely dress up, though, and its steel case appeals more than precious metal options. On the flip side, the L.U.C Qualité Fleurier feels better suited for daily wear. It’s casual, elegant, and quietly confident. So, it’s the classic heart vs. head dilemma:
- The L.U.C 1860 tugs at the heartstrings with its artisanal charm and classical proportions, while the Qualité Fleurier quietly wins the argument for versatility and everyday practicality.
Ultimately, it's a choice between poetic expression and precision pragmatism.
What are your thoughts on these two? Which would you pick—and why?
Kind Regards,
Mark
Comparing Two Exceptional Chopard L.U.C Pieces: The Poinçon de Genève L.U.C 1860 vs. the L.U.C Qualité Fleurier . . .
L.U.C 1860 – A Refined Classic Revisited IMHO, Chopard has been knocking it out of the park for the last few years. The L.U.C 1860 was unveiled during Watches & Wonders 2023—a re-introduction that draws inspiration from the original iconic 1860 model....
Thank you, Mark, for this very interesting comparison review.
My choice would be "poetic expression" (very well said). Moderate size and Metalem guilloché dial are winners for me. But both are steel and I don't warm up as much to white metals as to colored ones. So I'm hoping they'll do a yellow or pink gold 1860 so...
Thanks for your expressing your hopes for a yellow or pink gold 1860, Emmanuel!
Rumor mill is hinting that this 1860 may be discontinued by the end of the year. Perhaps, a successor may address your wish.🤷
Mark, hope you are staying dry today!
Superb write-up and photos! Thank you for this. Your XPS is stunning 👍🏻 Of the two, it’s the 1860 all day for me. It’s more visually interesting. And the dial color warms things up. While the second one, although nice, leaves me a bit cold / wanting for m...
😂🤣😂 You did a great job of expressing my initial thoughts with both pieces, Jesse!
Then, once I saw them in the metal a couple of times and analyzed the photos multiple times, I started to admire both for their unique attributes. Thanks for your thoughts, my friend! Stay dry!🍻
Wonderful watches
I have this Qualite Fleurier and actually find the relative monochromatic aesthetic very compelling. Of course there are multiple finishes to enjoy on the dial (see below). I also love the slim case design. It is one of my favorite and most versatile watc...
Ah, the L.U.C Qualité Fleurier immediately reminds me of you, David!😁
I know you were one of the first to ‘pull the trigger’ on this monochrome beauty (well stated)! Would you agree that this makes a great strap monster? Curious to hear your thoughts?🤔 Thanks for reading and enjoy this beauty!🥂
I had a couple made from Jean Rousseau in the city, and they certainly work! I enjoy the provided strap as well.
If your heart is going one way or the other, my advice is to follow that! It wants what it wants, as they say!
Those are a couple of stunning Chopard's.
Of the two I much prefer the L.U.C. 1860 as the dial and overall look is more to my taste and I find the dial of the L.U.C. Qualite Fleurier is too stark but both are really great watches. I am a big fan of maison de Chopard and I like most of what they p...
Wow Marc - thanks for sharing. Had no idea
about this great looking model. About to go down a rabbit hole… - Sebastian
Thanks for sharing this, Marc!
That’s great to read about how much you love your L.U.C Sport 2000! And as you stated, both of these pieces in my comparison take inspiration from your piece! Thanks again, my friend!🥂
Salmon 1860 for the win!
I recently acquired LUC 1860 after nearly a year and a half wait, and all I can say is wow. It's by far the favourite dress watch in my collection: ...
Congratulations, my friend!!!🎊🎉🍾🎈
I would argue both are winners in the end! Congrats again and welcome to the site!🥂
Outstanding article, thank you! I vote for poetic expression.
But I must agree with your observation about the space below the subdial. A half marker or something would make it much better, IMO
Thanks for chiming in, Michael!
I really love that 1860! But once I realized the space under the subdial, I can’t unsee it!😔 Happy Friday, my friend!🥂
FUN post, Mark!
This was my vote: The Qualité Fleurier never quite did it for me. Not a big fan of the syringe hands and the numbered chapter ring on this particular piece. But the main thing is the pie pan dial. I like pie pan dials, but on vintage pieces: ...
Awesome, Craig! I never knew you had the L.U.C 1860! Belated congrats!!!🎊🎉🎈🍾
I love those pie pan dials!😍😍😍 I wish Omega would produce some pieces with that dial!🤞 HAGWE!🥂