quattro[Moderator]
20809
Two things have to be taken into consideration:
1) From the back:
- If there's a solid caseback, who cares about the size of the movement?
- If there's a see-through case back, the movement can look a little small if the case is much larger than the movement.
2) From the front: the size of the movement determines the position of the pinions and, therefore, of the subdials on the dial side (small seconds, for example, and chrono subdial on a chronograph). So:
- If the case is very large, the subdials can look too close to the center of the watch.
- If the case is well proportioned for the movement, the dial layout looks more harmonious.
For example: the Caliber 215 PS is only 21.9 mm diameter. So it doesn't fill a 37mm case (ref. 5134) like it does a 31 mm case (ref. 7119):
5134G
7119G
And, on the
dial side, the small seconds subdial does not look as high on the dial of the
31 mm ref.
7119G as it does on the dial of the
37 mm ref.
5196P (in this
article on Hodinkee, Ben Clymer explains why he - and other collectors - was/were upset by the ref. 5196P):
7119G
5196P
But of course, it all comes to a matter of personal preference: some like the ref. 5196P and, frankly, why not?
Best, Emmanuel