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Horological Meandering

Whilst I appreciate these brands, my inclination tends towards individual watchmakers.

 

The fellow in particular whose name is now part of a very small production “brand”, which he hasn’t been a part of since 2019. On from there, he went back to his ideal scene, making stunning pieces in tiny quantities on his own, at his own pace and in his time.

Marco Lang is his name. His work over the years since 2004, when I began a professional relationship with him, has progressed to now. Under Marco Lang watches, he continues his legacy in high end German Independent watchmaking.

I feel very fortunate to own the penultimate model he conceived and designed whilst at Lang & Heyne just outside Dresden, in Radeberg. The Georg, was a benchmark watch back when it was introduced. Up until that point in time, all the prior L&H models were round. He had a hell it a time getting his colleagues and the investor’s advisory board to agree to fund and make the Georg. The pushback he received was strong. He prevailed in the end and convinced the little company to move forward and build the brilliant rectangular Georg. The movement is spectacular with the polished steel bar cocks and bridge. An open movement, that is hand finished to a very high degree. Prior to this caliber, I had seen this style of bridges and cocks only of a watch by the elusive and reclusive Christian Klings, whose even smaller life’s work in horology, although certainly no less important, is a joy to see. Marco created what has become one of the brand’s most important watches to date.




































His latest work, under Marco Lang Watches, was an edition of 18pcs, called the Zweigesicht 1, long sold out. A watch with a twin barrel caliber that has two dials to tell time. One a classic sober full dial, the center guilloched and the opposite side a more whimsical skeletonised and fine blue enameled dial with the caliber in full view. Add to this an optional indicator of shock direction, one is given a superlative double sided watch. The lugs are removable, so that the owner can switch side to wear whatever the mood suits. A clever two cam system releases the lugs, the buckle remains in place on the strap. As with all of Marco’s watches, the design and execution are top the range, with stunning hand finishing of the parts in his Saxon style.

There is a flair to his designs that I happen to love. Probably due to knowing him personally now for over 20 years. We have spent time together not discussing watches, and I find him a really decent, down to earth 5th generation watchmaker. His work reveals who he is as a human. More of his ilk I say would benefit our world of Horology! I’m eager to see his next release, which I hope will be later this year.

To the watch…first up is a platinum model.


















And next is a Rose Gold version. Clients were able to choose case material. Neither watch belongs to me btw.
























Whilst I admire the 3 brands you mention and show, and I believe ALS ranks up there with the best of the best in terms of design, execution and style for a big marketed brand, my heart is for the little guy.
Thanks for shining a light on German Watchmaking, that I believe is every bit as good as anything else made today.

Full disclosure, many moons ago, well over twenty years, I was an AD for GO, and still believe they make some of the best watches for the money paid. I loved my Senator Perpetual with the Cal.39 base automatic. The dial lay out and their big date without the interstitial bar between numerals, was ground breaking at the time. Possibly the most legible QP ever made?

Moritz Grossman, is doing some stunning watches too. Perhaps too many models imo, but their dedication to artisanal hand finishing and design ethos of calibers is highly impressive. There are many models I’d happily wear with unlimited funds available😉

Cheers,
Tim

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