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Patek Philippe

30-255 PS

 

Seems surprisingly low on hand finishing; no artisanal level of  anglage to be excited about ; and the rubies have been set into pressed chatons and thus no screws either around the chatons. One might argue that the blued screws are more a Glashutte tradition and not Swiss. But that is a convenient argument for dispensing with something beautiful as an embellishment. The chatons donot seem to be gold as well. If that is indeed true, the. I am wondering if this is where Patek should be headed when it comes to caliber finissage. Cutting corners is not what I expect from a great brand as Patek especially when the Calatrava does not come cheap at all.


Nomos, with its attractive price point,  on a Lambda 175  steel uses hand-blued screws around the rubies set in gold chatons, apart from engraving the balance bridge. Finished to the nines, I must say.

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