ImranLondon
[PuristSPro Moderator]
6320
The 5196p
At the start of January 2020, I wrote a piece regarding the Patek Philippe Calatrava reference 5196. I never got to post it. I saw patient in early January 2020 who had returned from northern Italy. Severe chest infection, febrile ,cough, shortness of breath... I sent them to hospital- diagnosis, pneumonia. a week later I had it, couldn't breath, couldn't moveout of bed then passed it on to my wife and children. My daughter ended up in hospital- thankfully discharged very quickly.
The reference 5196 is an enigma in the current collection. Loved and loathed in equal proportion, it is the ultimate “marmite” watch. For those who love it, it’s the quintessential Patek (I happen to be in this camp). The perfect lines first crafted by David Penney first materialised in the reference 96. The 96, had a 31mm case and a thickness of 9mm. The case had a snap back and a flat polished bezel- which gives rise to the “coin” watch description. The lugs were integrated into the three-part case design. Reborn and regenerated over the years like Dr Who, The spirit of the Calatrava 96 lives on today as the reference 5196.
The Calatrava, is for me perhaps is the most archetypal Patek ever crafted. It has been a signature in the collection ever since Jean and Charles Henri Stern, purchased a controlling interest in Patek Philippe in 1932. They realised that to prevent Patek from going into bankruptcy they needed to launch a new simple higher volume model that would be appealing to a greater audience than the traditional high end very wealthy clientele. The new model would need to maintain the high quality and reputation for excellence. The net result was the ref. 96, known to all simply as the Calatrava. The design was bold- bold by being so simple. Introduced in 2004 the 5196 houses the cal.215 movement but is in a modern 37mm case. The spirit and DNA of the original reference 96 model are evident in abundance in the new reference 5196. The platinum version in particular has a superb Breguet dial. The contrast in the silver finishing’s in the dial gives it a superb depth.
So that’s the good stuff. Now let’s look at the main grumbles, the movement. This is the crux of the reason so many dislike the watch. The “small movement” is often accused of causing an imbalance in the dial. The seconds dial being “too high”, with most preferring it to be sandwiched between the 5 and 7 o’clock batons, as in the classical references. However, not all vintage Calatrava‘s subscribed to this convention. Many, especially the vintage automatic Calatrava’s had a configuration akin to the ref.5196. A classic example being this steel ref. 2410.
The subsidiary dial in the gold versions of the 5196 is subtly featured. The furore of course is because of the “small” movement: the cal. 215. Born at a time when high horology meant trying to make the smallest thinnest movements, it has become a legendary movement. Well, legendary in its heyday. I am no watch movement expert, but this incredible review from Walt Odets, in September 2002, beautifully illustrates the majesty of this simple movement.
https://www.timezone.com/2002/09/16/patek-philippes-bread-and-butter-the-caliber-215/
But this movement was chosen not for any aesthetic merit, (there are much better finished movements out there), it was chosen for simple reason: it’s damn reliable. You see the 5196 is MEANT to be worn every day, day in day out, month in month out. It’s a workhorse movement, (think of it like the Rolex 15XX series of movements).
Back in the post war period up to I would say the mid 80’s perhaps a little later, the classical concept of your everyday watch was a round watch on a leather strap. My grandfather had a Favre Leuba round watch on leather strap, my dad had a Pierpont, mechanical wind with date 33mm case. And my first watch, a round case 35mm Roamer Rotodate. Everyone wore a suit, even those in factories, they got changed when they got to work, and you wore a tie. It didn’t matter, doctor, salesperson, shopkeeper.
But times change. Now wearing a suit and tie is no longer considered a must do. Jackets with jeans has become a norm. It’s also the norm to adorn a watch with a bracelet, a “sports watch”. In fact the trend now is very much that the simple round watch is a dress watch. Trouble is how often such a watch is needed. To be honest, the last black tie event I attended, everyone had a Rolex/Patek Nautilus/AP Royal oak. One chap had a beautiful steel Reverso ultra-thin.
The reality is that the classical round watch is just that- classical. Its place in modern society is dying a death. And if you do want one, will you pay say £3000 for a nice Omega or £15000 for Patek Calatrava/Patrimony/Lange 1815- especially if they are only going to see the light of day a few times per year.
The reality is that the classical watch, the everyday watch is now a cocktail/dinner-dress watch. Its real appeal is probably with old school charm and watch collectors. The new money will be sporting their AP Royal Oak or the latest sport Rolex. Goodness, maybe even a RM 67 Richard Mille. (The 67, is a watch I actually don’t hate – probably the only RM I don’t).
The place for the Calatrava was for the “everyman”, an affordable (within obvious context) entry level Patek. The workhorse Patek. To that extent the yellow gold 5196 fits the bill, only the steel 5167 Aquanaut is cheaper in the catalogue and the plain Jane 215 fits the reliability bill. But at £15,980 it’s no longer an entry level piece in the wider context. Its charm I think is borne now out of history, its iconic status, that iconic design. It’s about owning a piece of history, a legacy of Patek.
The problem for the 5196 is however, this may not be enough to save it. If it doesn’t get the retail sales, it may well be on its last legs. It does need an update, me personally I would make it centre seconds like the 570 SC. But even this may not be enough. I hope the temptation to make a 39mm version is assuaged. Whatever the future for the ’96, its status as a legendary reference is assured. There may not be a Patek Manufacture today, if it were not for the 96.
The 5196p
What a loving, thoughtful and insightful post. I really enjoyed reading this. Thank you.
Wonderful post, Miranda!
I'm glad your family did well.
sadly I lost 2 colleagues, 2 more were long term ITU but pulled through, it's the nearest thing to being in a war. I hope and trust all well with you, and to you and your colleagues a mighty thank you
Sorry to hear
Proportions
Great post for a richly deserving watch
I have the same general thoughts about the 5196
My God Imran how I've missed you.
Thanks for sharing a great 5196 review Imran, indeed a terrific watch of which you perfectly described its historical significance, and that I'm glad is finally recognized by collectors today! ;-)
Very well advocated article, my friend. But first of all, I am very happy to read that you and your family are ok.
Glad that you/your family got through this pandemic relatively-unscathed.
I’m starting to appreciate this reference more