Marc Obermann
3219
These Vacheron Constantin Perpetual Calendars really are quite beautiful except for the month sub dial.
But the one really big issue I have with this watch is its name "Vacheron Constantin Traditional Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin" as I hate to have to say this but in no way can a 8.3mm watch be classed as an Ultra Thin watch not now or ever IMHO. Vacheron is not alone in doing this and just like for the other manufacturers I will call it out every time it is done. It is bad enough when done by young companies that simply don't know any better but when maisons with a great history that includes real Ultra Thin watches engage in what I consider to be nothing more than cheap marketing it truly saddens me. Maybe a lot of today's watch buyers are actually unaware as to what an Ultra Thin watch is so they let it slide but I really find it hard to believe I am the only one that thinks this way. Who knows maybe it is just me? The one good thing about this kind of release is it spurs me on to do my write up on the truth about Ultra Thin watches which hopefully will come before Christmas.
Marc
The new Traditionnelle Ultra-Thin Perpetual Calendars
Vacheron Constantin just released three Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin watches: two for men (one in white gold, one in rose gold) and one for women . All three measure 36.5 x 8.43 mm and are powered by self-winding caliber 1120 QP . Such a g...
VC showing lots of restraint by releasing these in such an unassuming case and comfortable size.
Though I take issue with the month subdial which can be difficult to read, the very affordable price makes up for it 😀
This is the first release in several years from VC
that is really piquing my interest. Best, Emmanuel
Dear Carlos,
The month subdial is indeed not the easiest to read, but it invites to take a broader view on time: to consider not only the current year, but a 4-year cycle. And I find this broader way of considering time very appealing personally (just my feeling of co...
That’s a romantic way of looking at it.
Like Meistersinger and their one handed watch that subconsciously makes you see the “big picture” or 24 hour dials that divide time into day and night. If this model was intended to inspire such feelings then in my opinion it is either a missed opportunit...
You might be right, Carlos, and the Roger Dubuis
is definitely a completely different and interesting take on this complication. But I really like the look of the original ref. 43031 and of these new models. Also, I find it striking that the 48 months subdial doesn't seem to bother anyone when it's feat...
Sorry guys I had my mental Watch Price Justificator on “max”…
Jus turned it off and wow, yes, $100K is nuts
I agree that the price is nuts.
I just wonder why nobody really complains concerning the price of the comparable Overseas (same complication and movement). And to put things into perspective: the rose gold Cornes de Vache retailed for 58k in 2022; now end of 2025 it retails for 71,5K......
+1
The date window keeps me away here. They probably believe it is a critical design of theirs. For me a flaw
I understand the dislike of this 48 months subdial, even if I don't share it at all.
I just wonder why nobody complains when it is featured on an Overseas... Best, Emmanuel ...
Good to know.
I'm personally not interested in the Overseas. But I like the 43031 and these new releases. But I understand that this 48-month display isn't to everyone's taste.
Same sausage. Different size.
The amusing thing here is that the diamond lugs and diamond bezel only adds $2000 USD to the standard version's price. I disagree about the "beautiful layout of the perpetual calendar" as I have always disliked the the month/leap year indication on this w...
I fully respect your view, Patrick, but feel very differently.
I’ve always liked this layout. Not the best in terms of legibility for the month, very true, but inviting to consider the long term (a 4-year cycle) rather than just the current year. And I like this broader view of time very much. Also, compared to the r...
That 43031 is beautiful!
I can forgive the month indicator here because the watch feels much more minimalistic than the latest release we are discussing. It feels more intentional here, a stylistic choice vs a limitation imposed by the movement on the current version.
Interesting view, but I don't feel the same way at all.
On the contrary, I like the purified design of the 48 months subdial on the new models (less text and no "automatic" below).
I agree on the "Automatic" text part!
The "automatic" text on the dial really is not necessary.
I agree that the pricing is nuts.
And platinum + manual winding would have been a feast!
To put things into perspective:
the rose gold CdV retailed for 58k in 2022; now 71,5k...
☹️ I'm no longer 'proud' of claiming this....
as a remotely reasonable hobby. I know it was never meant to be generally reasonable, but there's a territory where you can make some concessions, and somehow justify it - I truly believe that's no longer the case........
I even feel mildly 'guilty'....
for getting a new steel Sarpaneva for 16K EUR, which is now well below average. Irrespective of my financial situation, I refuse to pay those kind of prices for watches that aren't 'one of a kind' 'grails'........ There are many more intelligent and/or co...
I feel the same.
I guess I could get used to it but at a glance it feels very hard to read.
I definitely can understand the dislike for the 48 months display,
but I wonder why nobody complains when it is featured in an Overseas... Best, Emmanuel ...
This is the only reason I haven’t gravitated towards the Overseas PC.
To me it’s less of a complaint and moreso a barrier to admission.
I personally like this broader view of time: a 4-year cycle instead of the single current year.
It sets this PC apart from the others and it diversifies the look of the subdials. Just my feeling of course.
These Vacheron Constantin Perpetual Calendars really are quite beautiful except for the month sub dial.
But the one really big issue I have with this watch is its name "Vacheron Constantin Traditional Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin" as I hate to have to say this but in no way can a 8.3mm watch be classed as an Ultra Thin watch not now or ever IMHO. Vacheron ...
Does it make a difference what complication is included when bearing the ultra thin moniker?
E.g., a time only ultra thin should of course be slimmer than a perpetual calendar.
Now that is a very interesting question and could lead to a really interesting discussion.
But for me and for now an Extra Thin or Ultra Thin watch is rooted in being a dress watch and as such should IMHO be a time only watch preferably only a two hand watch although it could also be a three handed watch. Although there is no definitive classif...
Really nice, but a curious choice of size, no?
Platinum would have been a nice option too.
Agreed on platinum.
As for the size, well, it's just 0,5 mm more than the original ref. 43031 and I think the idea was to be faithful to it. This piece could almost belong to the "Historiques" line. Best, Emmanuel ...
Ha, glad you said it
Historiques line is this watch’s place, at least in spirit. Price aside, I like it’s size and clean presentation…and that gorgeous calibre! Inspires me to wear the BP QP today ;-)
Yes, there's definitely a lot to love about these new releases.
Enjoy your BP QP ! Best, Emmanuel
Like you, this release really piques my interest and
gives me the feeling that VC is reconnecting with its roots here. Best, Emmanuel
I personally like the 48 months subdial which invites to a broader view on time.
Not just the current year, but a 4-year cycle. And I find it striking that nobody seems to complain when it's featured on an Overseas (exact same movement). Best, Emmanuel ...
The movement is fantastic but...
In a weird way the Frederique Constant Manufacture PC comes to mind and that's around USD10k if one really need a PC.
For me, what comes to mind is the ref. 43031 and I like this homage very much.
These new releases could almost belong to the "Historiques" collection, imo. Best, Emmanuel ...
That is a charming watch!
To be honest I lost interest in PC with age and worsening eyesight.
I have said it in 2010 and say it in 2025: 40 mm for a classic watch is fashion!
Nice to see the return of 36ish watches.
I am biased, of course
I prefer the original 43031, but I must commend VC on a very solid release. And while the 48 month calendar layout may not appeal to many, there was also a technical reason for that -- if I remember correctly, it allows the disc to be mounted fractionally...
So beautiful.
Thanks for the info, but I thought AP QPs from that era (early 80s) do not have leap year indicator. They started the 48 months subdial with this in the 50s. A complicated way to present the leap year, but what a beauty: ...
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