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Zenith

Nataf had three of the four attributes expressed by Magnus...

 

"Zenith is a brand which deserves and need (!) a CEO with charisma, stamina, technical proficieny and a respect for the immense heritage of this brand."--Magnus

Nataf had, well, too much charisma, and lasted a decade under a fledgling watch group, which shows stamina. And even the most outlandish Defy Xtreme was made well. Respect for the brand heritage--that was the tricky bit. But who is aware of that brand heritage outside enthusiast circles, where success is essential to sustainability?

Dufour brought back respect for the heritage, and my Captain Chronograph is a truly beautiful and dignified watch that exudes quality and class. But it seems to me Defour moved to a boutique sales model and bet heavily on the Chinese market. The result was even fewer places in the USA where a well-heeled but non-enthusiast watch shopper might run across a Zenith as an alternative to a Rolex. That cannot have improved the top line in places not subject to the halt in the Chinese luxury market.

And then there was the move to put Sellita movements in the Pilot Montre d'Aeronef Type 20 Extra Special, which was like kicking the Zenith clientele anthill. Magada reversed that decision soon after his hiring to general praise from enthusiasts.

And then Magada (presumably with Biver's support--JCB was, after all, his boss) closed some boutiques, including the flagship boutique in Geneva, though Zeniths are represented in general retailers there like Kirchhofer and Gübelin. Are they sold in boutiques or jewelry stores (as are Rolexes)? Around Washington DC, they are not sold anywhere, which defies logic. But I can only see them at retailers like Govberg and Topper--if I travel to do it.

And then there is the brand-undermining that results from very deep discounts at Ashford, though I hope it at least introduced more people to the brand.

I guess I must not understand the watch business very well. I don't know what would work beyond solid advertising that educates as well as evoking a brand feeling. Which I never see.

--Rick




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