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Trying on the ref. 5328G-001
As I like hand-wound calibers, I was curious to try on this new Calatrava, which features an eight-day power reserve and instantaneous day-date displays jumping at midnight.
The first thing I noticed is how beautiful and eye-catching the textured blue dial with black-gradient rim is.
The design is a clear mix of two other references (which I have featured below):
- The previous 8-Day timepiece released in 2013 as the Gondolo ref. 5200G-001
- And the more recent 2022 Annual Calendar Travel Time, ref. 5326G-001.
Measuring 41 x 10.52 mm, the white gold case feels almost ok on my 16 cm wrist, but just a little too large, imo.
The caseband guilloched with hobnail pattern is wonderful. Note that the lugs are attached only to the case back, which means that the hobnail pattern is uninterrupted all around the caseband.
The manual winding caliber 31-505 8J PS IRM CI J has a very nice, traditional architecture.
Here are the two sources of inspiration:
a/ The ref. 5200G-001 with caliber 28-20 REC 8J PS IRM C J
32.4 x 10.4 x 46.9 mm white gold case
credit: Hodinkee
41 x 10.7 mm white gold case
credit: Monochrome
As a conclusion, here are my thoughts:
- The 5328G-001 is a very attractive timepiece, which mixes successfully traditional and modern, classic and almost sporty design elements.
- The day-date-small seconds subdial at 6 o'clock isn't ideal (a bit cluttered), but if this watch fitted into my world, I don't think it would be a deal breaker.
- However, from a strictly personal standpoint, the blue dial and sporty look with lumed Arabic numerals and hands doesn't deeply resonate with me, so I'm not tempted by this reference, even if I find it really attractive.
If you're interested, here's the post I made last April, when the watch was released: Patek Philippe's new ref. 5328G & its background.
And here's another post I dedicated to the vintage 8-Day Patek Philippe watches: Patek Philippe's vintage 8-Days Power Reserve watches
Thanks for reading.
Best, Emmanuel
Trying on the ref. 5328G-001
As I like hand-wound calibers, I was curious to try on this new Calatrava , which features an eight-day power reserve and instantaneous day-date displays jumping at midnight. The first thing I noticed is how beautiful and eye-catching the textured blue di...
This one is an instance....
where it's reaching for too many things at once in my opinion.... Not at all bad, but nothing resonating and memorable. Thanks for the high quality pictorial, as always. Cheers, Filip
Yes, I think they could (should?)
have removed the day, which isn't very useful, imo, and redesigned the 6 o'clock subdial. But if one likes a blue textured dial with lumed hands and numerals, this one is definitely very well done and eye-catching! Best, Emmanuel
As a Gondolo version this watch works better, than as a round case watch.
Not saying it is not a nice watch, just better in a Gondolo case.
Yes, you might be right.
I've never seen a ref. 5200 in person yet, but, as I like shaped watches and as the 5200 doesn't have lumed hands and numerals, I would probably like it. Best, Emmanuel
Not bad
I suspect the high polish, fairly large bezel is a scratch magnet especially in precious metal, this is where hobnail would work well but it would probably clash with the modern design of the watch. I can't comment for the PP but 8 days with two barrels r...
Interesting feedback!
Unfortunately the watches available to try on at the Patek Philippe Salon aren't functional, so I wasn't able to wind it. Best, Emmanuel
I haven't wound one of these...
But I previously owned an 8-day Reverso and that watch was an absolute pleasure to wind.
I still have to see the 5200G in person someday.
I’m not particularly attracted to such textured dials, but this one really looked good to me. Best, Emmanuel
Hi Emmanuel, This reference is intriguing to me because it has
interesting characteristics of different watches, such as syringe 💉 hands 👐, Clous de Paris, and textured dial inspired by leica cameras. At first glance, it reminds me of reference 5320 with the same numerals and syringe hands. To me the small seconds ha...
Hi Gordon,
it seems that the end of your message is missing: all I can read is "Hi Emmanuel" ! Best, Emmanuel
I agree with you on all counts, Gordon.
I also find this watch very appealing for the reasons you mention, but, you are, right, it's not a top choice for me as I tend to prefer shaped watches! 😅😇 Cheers, Emmanuel
Hi Shun san, best of luck in getting your 5328G quickly !
Looking forward to your wristshots and review !
Oh, congratulations!
I hope you will get this watch soon and look forward to seeing your photos of it when it is yours. Best, Emmanuel
I really like the new 5328 reference.
I find it very interesting. And the movement is beautiful. The article on it in latest PP is a must read.
I find it really well done too, Gary,
and I also enjoyed reading the PP Magazine article! Best, Emmanuel
I so wanted to love this piece and tried it extensively when i brought my PP to the boutique for service.
I really love the movement, however, for around 20 grand more (which does not really matter at this point anyways) you get a more refined feeling with other reverences from PP. The attached lugs and the dial finish are two reasons for this, imo. Thank you...
I understand your feeling, Reuven:
which reference would you rather choose? Best, Emmanuel
I understand: the 5172G-010 is wonderful
and good chronograph movements are incredibly pleasing to look at. Have a great weekend.
A friend recently got the 5328G and I wore it for an hour or so over beer...
...it fit my 7.25" wrist perfectly, but I wouldn't want to go any larger. The hobnail on the case band is the star of the show. Subtle but a nice touch... ...
Maybe but I don't think so...at least it seemed doable when I was wearing it...
I haven't done Photoshop work in years (thank goodness) or I could do a mock-up...
I can't do anything about it...only older watches sometimes don't flip things...
Older APs usually do a fantastic job : ) ...
And what do you think about this particular dial,
which is a mix of both flipped and non flipped? ...
Really beautiful...
...I love how they used gold for time and blue for 'other.' This looks like a variation,,, ...
Thanks for the nice review Emmanuel!
My point of view, being not at all a PP expert: - I don't understand why this is a Calatrava, and not part to a more sporty new family. Calatrava for me is only for very traditional models - the hobnail case band doesn't really work, it would suit better ...
The only thing about which I feel differently
concerns the case band: I like it and, in person, it “worked” very fine for me. Calatrava is just a name: this watch belongs to the “Complications” family on the PP website. Have a great weekend. Best, Emmanuel
I tried it on at the Patek Salon in Geneva and fell in love 🤤
It is definitely in my wish list and I asked my AD about it. I didn't formally ordered, but I would like to try it on again to check if my feelings are still there 😅 Thanks for sharing Emmanuel, nice pictures as always!
I'm not surprised that you liked it:
it really has a lot for itself. Keep us informed if you end up getting it! Best, Emmanuel