Patek Philippe

So now that the dust has settled, here are my thoughts on the future of the new collection as well as what may be the implications for both the Nautilus and Aquanaut collections.

The Cubitus was revealed avant première by “accident” a few days earlier than the official launch. The model featured was a platinum moonphase day date on strap. To be fair the instant knee jerk reaction wasn’t love at any sight.

So now that we have seen the first three models of the collection, what are my initial impressions, I am after all not a hater and have owned many different Patek Philippe models both vintage and new.

Before I begin, let me cast you back to the Nautilus. When I first started collecting, the Nautilus and particularly the Jumbo Nautilus was a popular as pimple on your arse. In 1995 the steel 3700 was worth considerably less than a steel and gold Submariner date with blue dial. I fell in love with it and owned two 3700 at different times. Sadly sold them well before any hype. I loved the Nautilus so much I wrote about the model and its history for both QP magazine and the now defunct 00/24 magazine in the Netherlands. As probably the only journalist extolling the virtues of the Nautilus, I had the privilege to write about the watch on the occasion of its 30^th Anniversary for the Patek Philippe magazine. So yes I am devout Nautilus fan.

I first saw the Aquanaut in August 1997- not in person, back then you didn’t have the instant coverage you do now, I saw it on the cover of the French magazine Montres. I still have the magazine. Again I fell in love with the avant- garde risqué design. It was described as the Wart by the Moderator of the Patek forum on Timezone. Again hardly loved, I bought a ref 5065 in 1999, (sadly gone too- at a loss) with a 10% discount from Patek in Bond Street. So I have always loved the unusual, the ugly ducklings- though they are todays swans.

So, Cubitas, same reaction- instant love? Well no, but no hate either. I have been thinking about how the new collection has managed such a vitriolic reaction by many collectors. Well, more than the watch itself I blame the expectation that was created. What everyone was expecting was wholly new collection, and priced at an entry level. What we got was a new version of the Nautilus and a very expensive one at that. Now, if TS had said, the steel Nautilus needs a revamp, we are going bring the Nautilus Mk 2 (like the Speedmaster Mk 2) and it’s a premium product, I think the reaction would be more tempered. As it is, it appears like a curve ball, it’s certainly no entry level watch. Then there is the 45mm case. It’s huge. The question I keep asking myself is why do that? The overall design is not unappealing to me, I actually think it would work really well- if it was 39-40mm. Now TS has already said a mid-size will come. I think this will be a game changer personally. It will also be interesting to see how the complications will evolve in the collection- I hope if they make decent size, they should use that, the platinum version moon phase complication seems just too unbalanced. The movement is decent, I personally am not bothered about a square movement- 80% of what I want in a watch relates to its overall aesthetic and how it looks on my wrist. A mid-size with annual calendar a la 5726 in steel could definitely appeal to me- especially with a green dial. Doubt they would make such a thing.

So what happens with the Aquanaut and Nautilus? Well bearing in mind we have the 50^th and 30^th anniversaries coming up for both models respectively, I can see a revamp- especially with the steel models. I wonder if both the steel 5726/5712 are next in line for white gold makeover and will the steel 5167 survive (perhaps up to 2027). I can certainly see both collections becoming precious metal only- note: this is pure speculation by me- I have no insider info.

What does the future hold- Cubitus may well be the “entry”, especially if steel models are discontinued. Future models may well be better received. I think 45mm was a bridge too far, but it may be hitting the right spot for the rappers, footballers and boxers. I am tempted- no, but I won’t say I won’t be in the future, let’s wait and see what comes. It may yet blossom into a swan- if history is anything to go by.