Comments:
I was quite surprised when Patek included these 50th Anniversary Nautilus watches as part of its 2026 W&W presentation. I think this was a mistake and a lost opportunity.
IMO these historically important watches have received a somewhat diminished response compared to the the reception they would have received as an exclusive release at a different time of year. Partly responsible for this reaction I believe is the creativity, beauty and mechanical wizardry of some of the other offerings, eg the automaton and 6105 G. And the unexpected Cubitus perpetual with squared movement. Also the vibrant new color choices for dials of existing models, eg for the 5270P. Certainly there will be a great demand for the 50 th Anniversary pieces and all will quickly sell, but …
That said I think these watches deserve to be recognized as a truly unpredicted and daring tribute to 50 years of Nautilus.
By eliminating both the date and the sweep seconds hand, the watches achieve a simple, clean and elegant look. Combined with using the iconic 240 movement, an already very thin watch becomes extremely thin in a way that sets it apart from its predecessors.
A platinum model in the size of the 3800. Brilliant! Yes, some 3800 came in platinum but it is uber rare. Nice touch the diamond at 9 o’clock.
Love it or not a strap model with baguette diamond indices adds variety and appeal.
Also, the micro rotor allows more of the movement to be seen. So, all in all I say Bravo!
Yes, I would have liked there to be a steel model, and yes a “limited” edition of 5,000! pieces (not so limited IMO).
So, how do you feel about each of these 3 watches? Assumining, you find any of them to be appealing, do you have a favorite?
Best, Patekova
PS credit to Patek and Hodinkee for the beautiful images
I thought they would reserve an event down the road just for it instead of showing it at W+W
Definitely a possibility!
But, considering they've already committed to building 5000 precious metal Nautiluses (creating over half a billion Swiss Francs in revenue at the retail level - which will account for about 1% of all luxury watch revenue from just 3 SKUs), for them to announce that they'll produce more Nautilus models this year, could make the brand too Nautilus heavy and oversaturate the market with Nautilus models. Of course, I don't know the timeline of deliveries. But since it is an anniversary year, I would imagine a large percentage of those Anniversary Nautilus models will be delivered within the next eight months.
One thing about Patek and in general it is a very good thing - they keep people guessing and often do the unexpected.
Perhaps there will be another surprise mid year drop.
Or may be they are still trying to not be the “nautilus company.” Either way the offerings are pretty amazing. I think they nailed the watches.
These Nautilus references are already going to be over 5% of the company's output.
Assuming these Nautilus models will mostly be delivered within the next twelve months; with 5000 units, that means this is already going to be more than 5% of the entire annual production in unit terms (the estimated production was around 70,000 pieces for 2025, 2026 will probably be similar +/- a few percent) and around 10-12% of the entire revenue.
So, it's already significant! Especially if they deliver nearly all of them in the next 8-12 months!
So, it's already significant! Especially if they deliver nearly all of them in the next 8-12 months!
Interesting perspective as always.
What’s amazing to me is that still there aren’t any watches you can buy just walking into an AD. At least that’s been my experience (not that I’m in the market but it doesn’t hurt to ask 😎).
I think those days are long gone for the upper tier luxury brands
by design, most certainly
Watches are there! Even in the competitive market of major cities like Boston and NYC. The dealers are just supposed to make you wait for them!
Imagine a directive coming from the vendor brands... "Keep the cases empty, or put signs stating 'For Exhibition Only.'" When a client waits for something - they're much more appreciative when they get it. Also, even if there's a problem (a mechanical defect) they are much more understanding after waiting - as it was perceived that these watches take time to make, and are made by hand, and mistakes/defects can happen. It's a strategic move to create this impression of scarcity. Whether there is true scarcity or not (sometimes it is true, sometimes it isn't), it benefits the retailer and the vendor/brand to exercise this strategy as the client will be more appreciative and ecstatic when they receive their new prized possession. If I finish a marathon without training and exercising beforehand, it's not a big deal. But if I struggled, trained for weeks/months, trained on sunny days, trained on rainy days, and wasn't certain I was going to finish, but finally did... I'm more appreciative. Create an investment, and even though the results are the same, the path was different - that path creates appreciation and memories tied to the product!
With all the respect in the world...
I think Patek Philippe knows how to maximize profit and revenue better than you think. Might I most politely state; for you to suggest that Patek Philippe made a possible mistake, is probably a tiny little bit of overconfidence on your part. After all, this is a team of sales and marketing professionals - who have significant industry experience. We collectors often think we know better and blatantly say, "if I were the President/CEO/Manager of Brand-X, I'd do this instead of that," and most of these statements are often self serving and show an unawareness of the realities within the industry.
With all the jewelry store buyers and retail business partners at W&W, it is a good time to collect orders for the Patek Philippe brand. It is also a good time to prevent "floorplan dollars" from going to other brands. In other words, Patek Philippe doesn't want the buyer to blow all of their budget on stocking inventory on a competitor's product.
While the Nautilus does have to share the spotlight with Rolex Oyster's 100 year anniversary and Vacheron Constantin Overseas' 30th anniversary at this Watches and Wonders trade show, it is still overall probably not a bad idea to have launched it at said trade show - it has to share the spotlight in reality anyways. There's also another thought... Rolex is having another announcement on 12-May-2026. Patek Philippe could have additional announcements too, like Rolex! And Patek Philippe also has the Milano Exhibition going on later this year in October in Milano, Italia - perhaps there is going to be more announcements then (although, historically, the announcements at exhibitions are intended for that region's audience)!
Thank you for sharing your detailed and well reasoned viewpoint and observations. Also, for the sensitive way in which you present them.
It will be extremely interesting to see what path Patek takes for the rest of the year and at the Milano Exhibtion.
You're most welcome! And, I for one, can totally see your perspective!
I'm a collector/enthusiast too. However, having worked in the industry too, I have a slightly different perspective and I recognize the biases that collectors have.
We will definitely look forward to any future announcements! But with the thousands of pieces to come out soon in the Nautilus department, I don't see them as having too much more room in making more Nautiluses. But we'll see. 5000 pieces is definitely A LOT of Nautiluses!
We will definitely look forward to any future announcements! But with the thousands of pieces to come out soon in the Nautilus department, I don't see them as having too much more room in making more Nautiluses. But we'll see. 5000 pieces is definitely A LOT of Nautiluses!
What I am wondering is whether any future Nautilus watches will utilize the 240 movement/no seconds hand/no date combination, or
will it be a one off limited to the 50th Anniversary models? Any thoughts on that? To me, it makes sense on a lot of levels to limit it to the anniversary watches to keep them as something special and different, but I can definitely see a strong counter argument to have it be the new format going forward.
That, I don't know. Hard to predict the future.
A lot of people are really happy with the 330 movement - because it hacks. And most people want a seconds hand and date. The average customer wants automatic, seconds hand (quickest way to see if a watch is alive or out of power), date complication, and waterproofness.
The 240 caliber doesn't hack, but a lot of people do like the 240 caliber as well - as micro rotors are still seen with a bit of a small cool-factor. I admit, I like micro rotors a little more myself. The 240 caliber isn't intended to have a central seconds hand though - it would need to be extensively re-worked if it were even possible. So, in a model without a second hand, it's a great opportunity to employ the beloved 240 caliber.
But for models with a central seconds hand, the 240 caliber is not a possibility - without extensive re-working of the mechanism.
The 240 caliber doesn't hack, but a lot of people do like the 240 caliber as well - as micro rotors are still seen with a bit of a small cool-factor. I admit, I like micro rotors a little more myself. The 240 caliber isn't intended to have a central seconds hand though - it would need to be extensively re-worked if it were even possible. So, in a model without a second hand, it's a great opportunity to employ the beloved 240 caliber.
But for models with a central seconds hand, the 240 caliber is not a possibility - without extensive re-working of the mechanism.
Thank you Patrick for your perceptive and spot on comments, especially regarding the attributes of the 240 movement!
My gut says there will another release for 50th anniversary around the Milan Exhibition and it will be a steel 5811 but probably limited to 50 pieces.
That is quite a prediction, but anything is possible. Time will tell. Thanks for writing.
That's a very clean dial, without the date window and the seconds hand.
But at 5000 volume (if that's materialized), I agree that it can't be called a limited edition (unless we change the concept of "limited" in the horological world).
I thought it was 3000 pieces
Imagine your AD calling :”sir, I have a good news for you and a bad one… the anniversary piece has arrived for you, but it is on strap”
😁
😁
While I am confident all 1,000 of the strap version will sell out, it will be interesting to see how it comes to be regarded by collectors in the years to come.
Dear Patekova
I understand your feelings, but this decision to unveil the 50th Anniversary Nautilus models alongside the other new Watches & Wonders 2026 releases seems consistent with the stated intention, for several years now, to ensure that the Nautilus remains just one watch and one line among many in the catalog.
Patek Philippe has spared no effort since the discontinuation of the 5711, introducing several new models and even a new line, the Cubitus.
However, by creating four references, three of which will be produced in relatively large quantities (2 x 2000 + 1 x 1000), there was a significant risk that the Nautilus would dominate the spotlight.
In any case, personally, since the Nautilus isn't the line that defines my love for Patek Philippe, I'm not bothered by this group presentation, of which the 5249R, "The Crow and the Fox," is the true jewel, in my opinion.
And then, as others have said in their comments, who knows what the rest of the year holds, and in particular, what about the Milan Exhibition?
Best regards,
Emmanuel
Dear Emmanuel, thank you for expressing in detail all your well reasoned points. Yes, Patek has definitely wanted not to be solely defined by Nautilus.
And while I love Nautilus, when I think of what defines Patek and the great watches it has made and continues to make, the watches that I think of are non sport models including: 1518 and its progeny, MRs, WTs, rare handcrafts, PCs, chronos, ACs and Calatravas. Yes, it is a long list and deservedly so. I also think the Automaton is incredibly beautiful, a fabulous complication and very special. Best, Patekova
PS I notice that on the Patek website under Our Collections a new tab has now appeared: Nautilus - 50 Years. Interesting that it didn’t appear immediately at the start of W&W
The more I think about the 50th Nautilus release the less I like it for a number of reasons ...
1) I certainly do not want the cheap and awful looking engraved rotor and even less so on a 100k watch. Ruins the beautiful 240 movement in my eyes.
2) No date and no seconds looks great but the date on the 5711 has never bothered me and I use it a lot.
3) To me around 8 mm thick is a sweet spot. I don't like the 11+ mm thick Nautilus refs but thinner is not always better - I don't want an Octo Finissimo either but will admit 7 mm is still ok.
4) 5000 PM 50th Nautilus is way too many to make this release as special as it should have been. Not a good look.
Thank you for expressing your detailed reaction to the 50th anniversary watches. While I expect the desire and demand to be huge, I also think there will be a large group
who like you for similar and/or other reasons will be less than enthusiastic.