brandon.c
161
As someone who collects jewelry in addition to watches, I think gem-set watches can be quite tricky
Particularly at the high-end. Haute horology is expensive, haute joaillerie is expensive, and nobody is combining the two with the intention to offer a discount! (At least not on the suggested retail price. If it has been sitting in the case for some time, things may be different...) To me, this means a manufacturer really needs to raise the bar in terms of attractiveness and desirability when introducing gem-setting to a model.
I tend to place gem-set watches in two categories:
1. The gem-setting is an upgrade of a very similar non-gem-set model. I would categorize diamond-bezeled Datejusts and Day-Dates as well as this new Vacheron into this category. I have personally bought a watch like this before, a diamond-bezel Day-Date, and my logic behind the purchase was that I had already decided to buy the standard model but thought it might be fun to try on the gem-set version before completing the purchase. Once trying it on I was surprised how much I enjoyed it, and decided to go with the "upgraded" model in the end. I imagine this is the process many customers of these watches go through before purchasing.
2. The gem-setting is transformational and the finished product is more than the sum of its parts and not readily comparable to a base model (if a base model even existed in the first place). I personally think the Rainbow Daytona falls in this category, but it might be more obvious to include the high jewelry watches from Van Cleef & Arpels. These watches are much more interesting to me, however I believe I am very unlikely to ever buy one. To do so you need to find a piece that brings together both artistry (via gem-setting) and watchmaking that you personally are drawn towards. Given the prices involved it is difficult to find something that meets a single one of these criteria, much less both of them. That said, I do enjoy seeing these creations whenever given the chance and would love to see the recently shown Vacheron Les Cabinotiers Grisaille Dragon in-person.
For this watch in particular it is interesting to see Vacheron using an invisible setting technique and I am sure the photos do not capture how amazing it surely looks in the metal. My favorite part is the clasp where it looks like the diamonds are all cut into custom shapes and then use an invisible setting. If they make a full gem-set bracelet version of the Overseas using this clasp as the template - I think it has potential to be the best in that category.
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Tourbillon Diamond Bezel 6007V
High jewelry meets high watchmaking. Now, I know many of you aren't necessarily into jeweled watches - many of you focus more on the inner beauty of the watch - and its movement. Personally, I'm starting to see the appeal of jeweled watches - from a pract...
I think it’s a good trend as it’ll satisfy some potential
buyers. I’m not among them. That said I fully respect the others taste.
I concur.
Personally, while I like jeweled watches - I can't justify the additional expense. Although I really like the idea of a jeweled clasp since the clasp is sometimes scratched more heavily than the rest of the watch.
That’s an interesting point. A hidden treasure with a very useful function. I hate scratches and I have to be extremely careful to avoid
them at the clasp. BTW, great article.
Thank you!
Thank you for the kind words! I tried to make the article interesting for people who weren't interested in jeweled watches - hopefully the technical details about how an invisible setting is somewhat interesting for most readers. And yes! Scratches are so...
Thank you for this very interesting in-depth explanation of the technique used for the diamond setting and of the specificities of this tourbillon.
I thought I wasn’t attracted at all to gem set watches, until some Chopard red carpet editions (with and without flying tourbillon) were presented to me: I was each time surprised by how I found them nice even though I didn’t feel I would want to wear the...
Thank you for noticing the technical details of the invisible gem setting process!
We always try to put in some technical details into our articles on WatchProSite - it's what separates us from most other sites! The Chopard pieces are very nice and they have a nice micro rotor! Their movements are also much thinner than this Vacheron Co...
I've been very interested in your analysis of what makes a great tourbillon.
I still struggle to fully understand and appreciate this complication and would very much like to know what you think of the caliber 242 designed for Blancpain by Vincent Calabrese. I personally love it because it's a flying tourbillon and because it give...
The things dreams are made of!
THAT is a beautiful watch. I could probably just stare at that watch for 10 minutes without moving! That is a gorgeous timepiece! Generally, flying tourbillons (also known as carrousels) serve no additional purpose, having no bridge, they lack the shock r...
There is a model without tourbillon,
but the dial isn't enamel and the indexes are applied. It's "ultra thin" (7,45mm) and manual-winding (3Hz & 100h pr). As for the Carrousel, it seems to be a different complication than the Flying Tourbillon: Blancpain has a model which has both of the...
Wow! You know your Tourbillon's!
Yes, there is a slight difference between a flying Tourbillon and a carousel. Both cancel out the effects of gravity, but the difference is mainly how they're powered. Very impressed that you know this! This is not a detail even every FHH Certified Expert...
I agree!
Admittedly, I do feel out of place, when I wore a diamond encrusted watch for the H. Moser review - although I really did like the watch. An acquaintance of mine, a famous celebrity musician in Los Angeles, wears a diamond encrusted timepiece - looks tota...
Oh! He's a very successful musician!
He's world famous! Known for jazz mostly. He has more than two dozen Grammy Awards and many more nominations! I fear nobody wants to hear my croaking music! So... If we're going to become musicians to wear nice jeweled watches - I'm counting on YOUR TALEN...
Doomed indeed!
We will just have to be talentless people with jeweled watches! Are you any good at acting? Maybe we can try the movies?
Ok! You're the director and I get Executive Producer Credits!
Ever seen the movie "The Producers" based on the musical? I find that movie hilarious! While some purists prefer the original 1967 version, I prefer the sultry and modern 2005 version! Definitely a cool movie! Now, just imagine we're all wearing sparkly t...
As someone who collects jewelry in addition to watches, I think gem-set watches can be quite tricky
Particularly at the high-end. Haute horology is expensive, haute joaillerie is expensive, and nobody is combining the two with the intention to offer a discount! (At least not on the suggested retail price. If it has been sitting in the case for some time...
I really like your distinction!
Brandon! I really enjoyed reading your response. It was so fantastic that I had to read it twice to fully absorb the greatness of it. You're EXACTLY right. There are two ways to do gem setting; as you put it one is an upgraded derivative model like adding...
Wow, that is MB&F is amazing
I agree that this VC is really well done. Similarly, the new Patek Aquanaut minute repeater is demonstrating more advanced gem-setting techniques (such as invisible settings on the dial and case) than what we typically see used. I have not seen that MB&F ...
Very beautiful...
...although I'd prefer it a bit smaller but can't have everything : )
It's a chunky sporty watch!
Even the dressier 6000T model is a big watch for a dress watch!
For me a thought provoking post
(and those are the most interesting) I have been of the opinion that the watch should stand on its on merits and not on things like gems. Perhaps a poor comparison but still, I like to compare it to a beautiful glass that you enjoy drinking from. I want t...
I really like your glass analogy!
I do like how a nice glass feels against the lip. I like my glasses to be a bit thinner. For my morning tea, I once had a thick rimmed mug which was very heavy, and switching to a thinner Japanese mug or a German Demitasse has made drinking tea more enjoy...
Nice pictures
My wine glasses are so thin that when you put your index finger down inside the glass and have your thumb outside and you put your two fingers together like you are going to pinch something you sense that there is no glass between your fingers. When the g...
I know what you mean!
I'm downright scared to wash my Burgundy glasses! I use the Riedel Sommelier Burgundy glasses. They are quite thin indeed! The Lalique wine glasses are thicker, feel more substantial, and I'm much more confident to clean them. Back to watches and gems, I ...
I agree! The movement is par excellence!
The movement isn't terribly thin - but sometimes, you want a slightly oversized watch - especially if it's as showy as this one with an exposed tourbillon. I adore this movement!
Very special indeed!
I really like the thought they put into these diamonds to make them invisibly set. They certainly didn't go the easy route of just using generic round diamonds (which can be ordered off a supply catalogue). They actually went and ordered diamonds with spe...
Thanks for the write up Patrick; is this the same movement in the non
Bedazzled bezel? This case looks thinner
It is the exact same movement!
Same movement number, caliber 2160. Movement thickness should be about the same and case thickness should be about the same. Case thickness for the diamond/white gold variant is 10.39mm, rose gold no diamond bezel is 10.39, and steel no diamond bezel is 1...
Ok thanks! I am a big fan of this movement…
I mean if you are going to have a tourbillion and have it Auto; the circumferential rotor is 👌