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SIHH 2016: hands on review of the Lange & Söhne Saxonia Moon Phase

foversta
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The moonphase display is one of the Lange & Söhne favorite complications. Perhaps because it gives the opportunity to bring a poetic touch to the  Germanic discipline and precision which are found in the watches from the Manufacture in Glashütte. This is not the first time this complication joined the Saxonia collection since it is already used in the Saxonia Annual Calendar. However, the combination of the big date with the moonphase display, without any additional complication is a premiere in the Lange collection.

The Saxonia Moon Phase, available in rose or white gold, can be considered as an evolution of the Saxonia Automatic. It shares with it the same uncluttered aesthetic context, the same indexes, the Alpha hands of the same color as the case. Similarly, the movement of the Saxonia Moon Phase belongs to the same family as the one of the Saxonia Automatic, the  L086 family with a central winding-mass and a power reserve of 72 hours.

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However, the presence of the large date and moonphase displays changes significantly our perception of the watch. While the Saxonia Automatic is perceived as an extremely sober watch, the Saxonia Moon Phase gains enormously in dynamism and presence while retaining the classic good taste that characterizes the Saxonia collection. The case gets extra 1.5mm to reach the 40mm making it a respectable size for a dress watch. The dial does not lose balance because the sub-dial dedicated to the moonphase is well positioned. In addition, the double-window of the big date avoids to pull down the center of gravity of the watch and creates a nice contrast effect due to its rectangular shape with respect to the circular sub-dial.

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The solid silver argenté dial of the Saxonia Moon Phase is undoubtedly its greatest asset. Harmonious, well finished, it is nicely  enhanced by the solid gold lunar disk spangled with 852 stars, some of which are like grains of dust. This disc is very pleasant to observe and  it brings the decorative and dynamic dimension to the watch. At the end of the day, even a slow complication can give energy to a dial!

The only complaint I would mention about this dial is the presence of the tens associated with the second hand in the moonphase sub-dial. This aesthetic feature of the new Saxonia watches was introduced last year (and to be more precise: in the Saxonia Outsize Date limited edition) and is a reminder of the Langematik which were using the caliber Sax-O- Mat. These small numerals seem a bit unnecessary here although I understand their presence to be consistent with the other watches of the collection.

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The movement which powers the Saxonia Moon Phase is the caliber L086.5  with a  diameter of 30.4mm and a thickness of 5.2mm and therefore is an evolution of the L086.1. It is the reason why it has a similar frequency (3hz) and power reserve (72 hours). Lange's will with this movement was to increase the power reserve compared to Sax-O-Mat. To achieve this objective, a larger barrel is used which obliges to locate the winding mass above and thus to sacrifice the traditional 3/4 rotor of the Sax-O-Mat. The winding mass is thin to keep a reasonable movement height and even if I appreciate the presence of the peripheral platinum segment, the L086.5 movement does not have the same charm than of the Sax-O-Mat. Despite this remark, it remains very well finished and offers a very enjoyable show. The additional large date display and moon phase module has a very reasonable thickness since the movement only gets an additional 1,5mm height. The accuracy of the moon phase is not the highest in the Lange world but it remains very acceptable (and totally sufficient!) with a one day correction which is required every 122.6 years.

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I do believe that the Saxonia Moon Phase  is the most successful "simple" Saxonia: I was seduced by its charm and balance. It offers a very classic presentation without falling into boredom. The lunar disc enlivens the dial and the 40mm size gives it a nice presence on the wrist without appearing to be oversized. The diameter (40mm) over thickness (9,8mm) ratio of the case is well proportioned and the watch is neither too thin nor too thick. If the prize (28,500 euros) is much higher than the Saxonia Automatic (22 / 23,000 euros), the gap can be explained by the much more attractive visual rendering. But it is also close to the Lange One price and inevitably the question of the opportunity to acquire instead the most representative watch of the Lange collection arises. The undeniable beauty of this Saxonia can be enough in this context? It is at the end a matter of taste.

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Thanks to the Lange & Söhne team for its hospitality during the SIHH.

Most:
+ A successful, balanced and attractive dial
+ The beauty of the lunar disc
+ The 3-day power reserve
+ The case proportions

Cons:
- The L086.5 movement, even visually attractive, doesn't have the charm of the Sax-O-Mat
- The Lange One price is relatively close to the Saxonia Moon Phase one and we may hesitate in this context


Fx This message has been edited by foversta on 2016-02-23 14:10:09

Comments:
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Poky February 23rd, 2016-14:21
An excellent review and high quality photos I like the white gold, it feels more understated than what the actual watch is. I agree with regards to the small numbers on the moon phase dial but I have to say I didn't think about them until you mentioned it.
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amanico February 23rd, 2016-14:25
I definitely have a problem with this big rotor, which I don't find to be very " Lange "...  
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TheMadDruid February 23rd, 2016-15:59
Very nice review, Fx. Overall, I think it's an excellent addition to the Saxonia family. It gives a little extra pizazz without losing the "Teutonic" aesthetic of the brand. The WG in particular is very appealing.
sc16 February 23rd, 2016-20:41
Somehow I can’t get rid of the feeling….. That this would be much better looking if it had the same length stick and minute markers as the AC. Imo, the markers are just too long and they intrude the dial much more than need to be… It makes the dial busier and takes the focus away from the 2 eleme... 
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jrwong23 (aka watchthebin) February 24th, 2016-11:54
Thanks for the excellent review Fx! I love the dial layout of this new Saxonia moon phase a lot. Very nicely balanced and handsome I wish for 3 things to make this watch even nicer imho 1. A smaller size of 38.5 or 39mm max 2. A solid gold rotor - I think like the new auto Saxonias the roto... 
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TonyR February 24th, 2016-17:35
Thanks FX.......... Its a home run in either metal. I actually like the rose gold a little better. The watch stands on its own but would also be a great complement to a Lange one. Tony
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COUNT DE MONET February 25th, 2016-02:57
the rotor, the rotor ... rotates me mad! But not for the reason that is bothering Nicolas ... I guess you will know what my criticism is? Anyway, this precious looking (a small hint to the above issue) rotor aside it look like a very appealing watch with character. The moon phase gives this "goo... 
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skyeriding February 25th, 2016-05:35
Curious to hear more about this My issue with Lange rotors is that on their simpler automatic pieces, they do not decorate with screwed gold chatons They look a little flimsy given their thin stems but I dont know. At the very least, the rotor being gold is lined with platinum parameter... 
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COUNT DE MONET February 25th, 2016-05:56
That screwed chatons are missing is not a big issue I give you some more chances to find out what is really an issue with this movement. Take my used words regarding the rotor literally " ... this precious looking rotor ...". I know, I am being cruel ... Best Moritz
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skyeriding February 25th, 2016-06:30
Ok I'll try again Moritz, Since the entire rotor is gold and Pt, for a simple watch movement it significantly boosts the price versus the standard 3/4 plate manual wind? Or, the connection of the gold rotor to the central steel hub may be poor? Regards, skyeriding
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My 5th element: the Richard Lange Boutique Edition

foversta
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I already did a review of this watch and you also know it very well. So I will not introduce you what is a Richard Lange Boutique Edition. Because this watch is the latest Lange piece which has joined my collection. I prefer to explain why I did this choice.


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