The 2012 SIHH PuristSPro Live Report

- Jon Z. (Z3)

A. Lange & Sohne

Lange has 5 new novelties this year - Grand Lange 1 with the "proper" proportions thanks to a newly designed calibre L095.1, the Datograph Up/Down, Saxonia Thin, the luminous version of the Lange 1 Timezone, and the tastefully discreet Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar.

The Grand Lange 1 in 41mm diameter has been around for some years, however, it has been using the same movement as the original 38.5mm Lange 1. As the typical result of a smaller movement in a larger case, everything appears squished to the center - the subdials overlap, and the date window also overlaps with the main dial. This dial layout is somewhat inconsistent with the beautiful proportions of the originally Lange 1 and appears to be hastily pieced together, to satisfy the needs for a larger dimension...

In this day and age, with the taste for larger watches, I am sure that many people who appreciate the beauty of the line, find the original 38.5mm size to be small; however, they also cannot bring themselves to appreciate the "squished look" of the Grand Lange 1. Hence, they waited and prayed for the next natural aesthetic progression...

... and voila!

I was quite impressed with Lange's effort to develop a new movement L095.1, to accommodate the larger case. As the result, the new Grand Lange 1 has the same beautiful proportion as the original, with the size (40.9mm to be exact) that would satisfy the dual needs for an exquisitely designed dress watch that's also large enough to make a statement. I have a feeling that this would be a winner!

 They come in Platinum, Pink Gold and Yellow Gold

The larger movement that fills up the entire case.

Perfect size on my wrist

The Saxonia Thin in white gold. (40mm diameter, 5.9mm height)

Lange 1 Timezone with luminous hands, giving it a dress-casual look.

Datograph Up/Down in platinum, with power reserve on at 6'O clock.

the L951.6 Calibre that incorporates the power reserve indicator, as well as increasing the power by 24 hours.

The most heart-warming novelty from Lange this year must be the Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar, introduced in platinum or rose gold.

At the first glance, the watch looks like a simple Lange 1 Moonphase, a closer inspection would reveal the week, the month on the rim, the leap year indication discreetly positioned at 6'O clock.  The useful power reserve is also kept on the main dial.

The tourbillon is visible only at the back.

It's an amazing feat to incorporate so many functionalities without making the dial look busy, while faithfully keeping the design DNA of Lange 1. 

The tourbillon cage discreetly positioned at the top.

At the size of 41.9mm diameter and height of 12.2mm, it is also not thick for such a high complication piece.

A fantastic year by Lange, with a small set of pleasant and wearable novelties. Kudos to the Grand Lange 1 and the Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar!

Hope you have enjoyed the post.

Yours Truly,

Jon Z. (Z3)