Royal Oak Jumbo: an (incomplete) overview

quattro

The history of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Jumbo is so rich that exhaustivity is both exhausting and almost impossible.

Therefore, I have decided to leave aside the openwork variants and the RD#3 Tourbillon.

For a more complete information, please read the following articles:

The Complete History of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Jumbo Series by Denis Peshkov for Monochrome

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak ‘Jumbo’ by Jasper Lijfering for Amsterdam Vintage watches

The Royal Oak "Jumbo" models on AP Chronicles

A/ THE INITIAL REF. 5402 - LAUNCHED IN 1972

Case dimensions: 39 x 7.15 mm

Automatic caliber 2121, Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 920/921 base. Measuring 3.05mm thick and 28mm in diameter, it is among the thinnest full-rotor automatic movements with a date complication.

credit: Audemars Piguet

1/ STEEL REF. 5402ST

The AP logo was initially placed at 6 o'clock, as in the document above and the photo below:

Somewhere at the end of the 1970s, the AP logo moved to the 12 o’clock position, as in the example below:

credit: Phillips, Monochrome & Audemars Piguet

2/ STEEL & YELLOW GOLD REF. 5402SA

credit: House of Time

3/ YELLOW GOLD REF. 5402BA

credit: Wind Vintage & Audemars Piguet

4/ WHITE GOLD REF. 5402BC

credit: Phillips

B/ JUBILEE REF. 14802 - 1992 COMMEMORATIVE EDITION LIMITED TO 1,000 PIECES

Production included:

692 in steel with blue and salmon pink dials

286 in yellow gold (14802BA, ivory and slate grey dials, gold and white dials added later)

20 in platinum (14802PT, blue and hammered Tuscany blue dials, released from 1995 onward)

To showcase the calibre 2121, a three-part case replaced the monobloc one.

Most gold rotors engraved with a 20th-anniversary motif and corresponding case number.

Another notable difference is repositioning the AP logo to replace the 12 o’clock index.

1/ STEEL REF. 14802ST

credit: Momemtum Dubai & Watch Club London

2/ YELLOW GOLD REF. 14802BA

credit: Oliver & Clarke & Monochrome

3/ PLATINUM REF. 14802PT

none

credit: Phillips

C/ THE 1996 REF. 15002

Production remained extremely limited: only 174 pieces were made in steel and 12 in yellow gold.

The bezel’s bevel angle increased from 40 to 45 degrees. Additional tweaks included a slightly larger AP monogram at 12 o’clock and an enlarged Audemars Piguet signature.

1/ STEEL REF. 15002ST

none

credit: 41 Watch

2/ YELLOW GOLD REF. 15002BA

credit: Antiquorum

D/ THE OBSCURE REF. 15128ST - ONLY 50 PIECES MADE

This reference was made exclusively for the Italian market and the rotor was specially engraved with “Anniversaire Royal Oak Italie”.

Each watch was delivered with 2 dials: one green and one blue, both featuring a Tappiserie patern limited to the center.

The uncommon Arabic numerals and the AP logo surrounding it are luminous.

Last but not least the Arabic minute track is another unicum.

none

credit: European Watch Company

E/ THE MODERN REF. 15202 LAUNCHED IN 2000

This reference stood out for its Grande Tapisserie dial, a departure from the traditional Petite Tapisserie, adding a bolder texture.

The case returned to a three-piece construction with a sapphire crystal caseback.

1/ STEEL

BLUE DIAL REF. 15202ST.OO.0944ST.02

WHITE DIAL REF. 15202ST.OO.0944ST.01

none

In 2012, for the 40th Anniversary, the reference 15202 was updated with:

Petite Tapisserie dial with matching date disc

AP logo at 6 o'clock, like the very first ref. 5402

New rotor

New clasp.

REF. 15202ST.OO.1240ST.01.A

credit: 41Watch

2/ WHITE GOLD REF. 15202BC.OO.1240BC.01

3/ PLATINUM REF. 15202PT.OO.1240PT.01

none

4/ YELLOW GOLD

BLUE DIAL REF. 15202BA.OO.1240BA.01.A

none

GOLD DIAL REF. 15202BA.OO.1240BA.02.A

none

5/ ROSE GOLD REF. 15202OR.OO.1240OR.01.A

none

credit: Monochrome, The Watch Club & 41Watch

6/ TITANIUM & PLATINUM REF. 15202IP.OO.1240IP.01

credit: Monochrome

7/ ONLY WATCH 2021 REF. 15202XT

The central case and the bracelet are here made of sandblasted titanium.

The bezel and studs of the bracelet are made of Bulk Metallic Glass (BMG).

The dark grey coloured (rhodium-toned) dial features the classic “Petite Tapisserie” pattern.

none

credit: Wristcheck

F/ THREE ADDITIONAL SPECIAL EDITIONS

1/ THE HOUR GLASS EDITION REF. 15205BA.OO.1240BA.01

credit: Sjx

2/ THE TWO "YOSHIDA" REFS. 15206PT.OO.1240PT.01 (PLATINUM) & 15207OR.OO.1240OR.01 (PINK GOLD)

These two references were sold exclusively at Yoshida, one of the oldest Japanese retailers, located in Tokyo.

The platinum model was limited to 70 pieces & the pink gold version was limited to 30 pieces.

none

credit: k2luxury & Watches.de

G/ THE 2022 REF. 16202

The most significant evolution was the introduction of the newly developed Calibre 7121.

1/ STEEL BLUE DIAL REF. 16202ST.OO.1240ST.01 (50th ANNIVERSARY) or 16202ST.OO.1240ST.02

credit: Monochrome

2/ WHITE GOLD TUSCAN DIAL REF. 16202BC.OO.1240BC.02

credit: Monochrome

3/ YELLOW GOLD FUMÉ DIAL REF. 16202BA.OO.1240BA.01 or 16202BA.OO.1240BA.02

credit: Monochrome

4/ ROSE GOLD REF. 16202OR.OO.1240OR.01 or 16202OR.OO.1240OR.02

credit: Fratello

5/ TITANIUM & BMG REF. 16202XT.OO.1240XT.01

credit: Swiss Watches Magazine

6/ PLATINUM REF. 16202PT.OO.1240PT.01

credit: Watch Collecting Lifestyle

Thanks for reading.

Best, Emmanuel

Comments:

Eikþyrnir January 31st, 2026-19:48

Bravo! Extraordinary work as always mate! Lovely info and images - you keep on producing top notch quality content again and again, and I both applaud and appreciate it! 5402SA is absolutely sublime! Wish that AP would reintroduce more bimetal pieces as I just c...

quattro January 31st, 2026-22:14

Thank you so much for your very kind words, Eikþyrnir! I also find the 5402SA very appealing. AP could reintroduce these bimetallic models, but the vintage charm is unique and a modern watch wouldn't have it, unfortunately. Best, Emmanuel

Besançon January 31st, 2026-20:01

Is the one on top the same as mine? Dan you tell me some about mine? Thank you. ...

quattro January 31st, 2026-22:22

Yes, it seems to be exactly the same: 5402st with AP logo at 12. So, not an example from the first series. You might be interested in reading this article: Frank and his Vintage Audemars Piguet Royal Oak ‘Jumbo’ 5402ST And also this one: The Complete History of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Jumbo Series , where you can...

Besançon February 1st, 2026-00:41

Thank you so much !!!

quattro February 1st, 2026-08:30

My pleasure!

@lberti January 31st, 2026-20:16

Amazing post... I almost landed this.one, but the stars were aligned for a different client, who at that time had spent 2mio + at the house in geneva. This is what i was told. ...

quattro January 31st, 2026-22:34

A gorgeous example, for sure. I hope the owner truly enjoys it! Best, Emmanuel

RDSChicago February 1st, 2026-03:16

Emmanuel, I truly love

quattro February 1st, 2026-08:27

What is it that you truly love? The white gold/salmon dial variant?

0-10-10

Load More Comments

quattro

Overview of AP's 1940-1950s Calendar Chronographs

quattro

The 20 Triple Calendar Moonphase Chronographs powered by 13VZAQ calibers produced by Audemars Piguet during the Second World War (from 1941 to 1943) are among the most interesting and beautiful timepieces I know. I have been able to identify 11 of them : here's an organised and documented overview . Thanks for reading. Best, Emmanuel credit: @pygmaliongallery A/ CASE STYLE (ARCHIVAL PHOTOGRAPH) NO.

Go to top.

About US | Contact