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How is a Block of Gold or Steel Transformed Into a Watch Case at Bulgari?

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How is a Block of Gold or Steel Transformed Into a Watch Case at Bulgari?


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Case construction is a technically precise operation involving milling, stamping, polishing and more. Each casing must be made to perfection and that must be repeated again and again. At Bulgari, this has to be for the numerous different models that are currently offered and each piece must be inspected along the way to ensure that the highest level of quality is reached. 

Milling & Stamping

Depending on the part that is being made, the construction may differ. Some parts are turned on a lathe and others milled on a milling machine.  Here we see a case back.  The blank is first stamped which forms the outside with its decoration.  The inside, which needs very close tolerances to be water tight, is then turned.  As here, special chucks are made to hold the parts when working.

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The stamped blank.

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Here a small selection of the cutting tools used on the milling machines.

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These Bulgari Bulgari cases are also first stamped in a procedure with 7 stamps with a heat treatment in between each time to create the logo.  Then the cases are turned and polished.  Finally the lugs will be soldered on.

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Here we see a manipulator robot loading a gold blank into a chuck.  The manipulator will then unload the chuck that is presently in the milling machine and replace it with this one.

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The gold blank is being milled in this picture.  This milling machine can accept 21 different tools, some of which can be seen here on the turret.

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This shows some of the work done on this machine.  In particular the case back with attached lugs of a Sotirio.

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Other work in gold

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The blank for a square white gold case back.

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More tools for the process

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and cases, along with their, in each case, special chucks

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I wonder how long it takes to construct all the separate parts in the Diagono X-Pro case. Any guesses? 

Does your appreciation of watches increase when you can see the construction process used to create it?


This message has been edited by pingtsai on 2013-10-06 09:42:30

Comments:
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foversta October 6th, 2013-14:32
Thanks a lot Ping for your excellent post! It is always a great pleasure to be able to see the whole process of a case making. About your questions, I would say several days? 5? Of course, it is for me very important to know the process... knowing that the watch uses a complex case (but with a smo... 
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lien October 6th, 2013-16:02
great read bulgari multi-pieces case has a special place in between traditional round one piece case and unusual independent creations, an signature expertise of a strong jeweler based watchmaker brand. curious one this is, a porsche design!? cheers, Ed~ ... 
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MTF October 6th, 2013-16:34
For the Bulgari X-Pro PuristS 10th edition Before I knew the case and dial sandwich construction had 108 components, my appreciation of the watch was muted. After I found out it did and why it had to be, we had to choose it for our 10th anniversary celebration. ... 
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small-luxury-world October 6th, 2013-23:58
It is always interesting to see ... how things are done and I like it a lot. I am always curious on that kind of things, because it adds a different value to luxury. So far we saw lots of machines and tools, but is there anything special? Something we can only find at Bulgari? Special proce... 
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Bulgari Ladies Diagono Chronographe: An On the Wrist Review

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Bulgari Ladies Diagono Chronographe An On the Wrist Review By Ping Tsai Bulgari Female Elegance Has a Sporty Side Bulgari’s Diagono collection of watches for men and women carry a tradition of incorporating stylishness and practicality in casual watch name “Diagono” which is derived from the Greek word meaning “competition”, agon, designates all of Bulgari’s sportier watches and can be easily distinguishable by their signature single lug feature. The men’s Diagono line is extensive without a doubt. But why ... .


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