image

Watchmaking at Bulgari - Part 2 Making Bracelets at Prestige d’Or

Kong
Avatar
Posting on behalf of Don Corson.


For Part 1 : Casemaking at H.Finger,  please click here.



During a half an hour trip from Lengnau down in the valley to Saignelégier up in the Jura mountains we change the scene from the beginning of spring to winter.  From the first flowers up to a meter of snow still on the ground.  But it is melting fast.  Saignelégier has the honor of not only being the home of Prestige d’Or but, almost across the street, Switzerland's biggest horse market.  The week long festival of the main horse market each summer is one of Switzerland’s famous summer attractions.

Once here at Prestige d’Or we are back in the world of precision machining.  And as we know the work starts on a computer to determine the exact form of the pieces. none


Again from this 3D description of the pieces command files for the CNC machines are generated.  And again, as at Finger for the casemaking, stamping and machining are often combined to create the final part.  Here we see an initial stamping and the final machined piece.
none

This is how the bracelet is formed for this distinctive ladies watch.
none

As we are used to in an industrial environment measuring equipment and technical drawings are found everywhere to control the dimensions of the pieces fabricated.
none


none

Here we see a CNC milling machine with its automatic material feed.  With this automatic feed the machine can operate for several hours, depending on the size and complexity of the pieces, until it needs human intervention to add new material.
none

Again measuring equipment, this time optical equipment with which, for example, an edge can be scanned to make sure that it has the correct form, or the distance between two hole centers can be accurately measured.
none


none

These smaller CNC machines are used to make the links in bracelets or the pins of a standard buckle.  Again the raw material is in the form of a 3 meter long bar which is placed in the long tray to the left.  Making such small parts the machine works for about 4 hours before needing new material.
none

These are the parts this machine has been making.
none

After the parts have been machined the finishing commences.  Here we see a buckle which has been selectively sand blasted in the center.
none

Many parts of bracelets are stamped.  Here we see some of the dies used for this stamping.
none

And here is a display of the different steps of stamping this center portion of a deployant buckle.  In general there is a heat treatment of the part between each stamping step so that the metal doesn’t become brittle.  The actual stamping is not done in house.  150 ton presses are not to be played with.

none

We now enter the finishing room, mostly empty as it is now lunch time.  But there are still a couple of people at work.
none

Here the first steps at cleaning up a buckle.
none


none

All the critical dimensions correct?
none

Polishing we saw already this morning at H. Finger.
none

Interesting is the hard soldering operation.  For this the pieces to be soldered together, the lugs on to a watch case, for example, are spot welded together to assure the positioning.  The solder paste is spread on the joint and the piece is sent through an oven on a conveyor belt.  The soldering room has 4 such ovens that are set to different temperatures from 800°C to 1000°C.  No extra heating is needed in this room!

The workbench for spot welding.
none

One of the ovens.
none

Finally the many pieces of a bracelet are assembled.  Here we can see all the pieces.
none


none

Two finished deployant buckles.
none

This finishes our visit to Prestige d’Or.
After lunch we will visit Bulgari's dial maker Cadrans Design in La Chaux-de-Fonds.



This message has been edited by Kong on 2009-06-02 12:57:25 This message has been edited by AnthonyTsai on 2009-06-02 20:43:24 This message has been edited by MTF on 2009-06-05 04:28:18

Comments:
ling5hk June 2nd, 2009-16:17
Dirty hands Kong, I always see the photos showing watchmakers working in a clean enviroment. This is the first time I notice a manufacturing factory enviroment with dirty hands. It means hard work. I like the worker who is not afraid of getting his hands dirty. Bulga... 
Avatar
Kong June 3rd, 2009-01:57
For small parts, it is quite inevitable ... not to get the hands dirty. Most machinists when gripping smaller parts, would not like to wear finger-cots as it muffles the sensitivity of the hand to feel just a very light grind. Since you have seen 'black' dirty, how about 'white' dirty ? This is mic... 
daringdave June 2nd, 2009-18:58
What an interesting post! Thank you DD  No message body
Avatar
dxboon June 3rd, 2009-00:59
It's amazing how specialized these machines are! I love that the machine can work at producing the small parts of the bracelet for four hours before needing to be fed more material. Fascinating! Polishing the links looks like dirty work though! Check out the fingers on our friends in the photos! I hope ... 
Avatar
Kong June 3rd, 2009-02:10
Though machines is highly specialized, nothing could replace the hands yet ... Just posted more process pictures for the buckle. The black metallic dirts are not easy to remove, even after several rounds of washing. The machinists prefer to use their bare hands then put on protective media, but it kills their tactile sensitivity whi... 
Avatar
BDLJ June 3rd, 2009-16:29
On the contrary... One of the main advantages of CNC is that they are not specialised. That is their main advantage for small prodution runs. You do not need to commission dedicated machines, software takes care of that. In general, they are equipped with interchangable cut... 
Avatar
dxboon June 3rd, 2009-21:32
This is good to know... ...and clever that the machines can be redeployed to other tasks fairly easily. You are, as always, very informative! Thanks! Cheers, Daos
Avatar
MTF June 3rd, 2009-09:21
Bvlgari, Daniel Roth and Gerald Genta..... Bvlgari Group includes the brands Bvlgari, Daniel Roth and Gerald Genta. So, we could see stamped in some of the photos...partial brand names (some in mirror-image just to confuse us): ....LGARI DANI.... So, whether movement, case or bracelet....they are ... 
Avatar
MiniCooper June 4th, 2009-16:44
thank you... for a very informative post Cheers
0-10-9

Load More Comments




 Next Article
image
Kong
Avatar

Sotirio Bulgari 2009 Collection (with Live Pics)

Kong
Avatar
Sotirio Bulgari 2009 Collection To commemorate the 125th Anniversary of BVLGARI this year, four new models are introduced. A clear sign that an expedition to serious watchmaking is gaining speed with the amount of intentional efforts poured in and vertical integration done. To discover the 2009 collection, here are some LIVE pictures for your preview. (Please click the link below to view by individual model, quite many pictures, a broadband is recommended) (1) Sotirio Bulgari 125th Anniversary Edition (2) Sotirio Bulgari Tourbillon Quantième Perpétuel (3) Sotirio Bulgari Quantième Annual Calender & (4) Sotirio Bulgari Date Rétrograde (A) Casemaking for the BVLGARI Sotirio Series (B) Wrist Shots with Various Models For the Sotirio ....


Go to top.

About US | Contact

© 2017 - WatchProZine