I will tell you what is for me a perfect morning in Rome. I leave my hotel, I walk a bit to reach the Via Condotti and I take a delicious Cappucino at the Antico Caffe Greco. Then I visit one of most prestigious boutiques of the luxury street of the Eternal City: Cartier. Actually, it is just located a few meters from the Caffe Greco so you can imagine that the combination of both visits is a bit mandatory! And well, a good coffee is required before entering the Cartier boutique. You need to be fully awake to enjoy the latest beauties from the famous brand. To be frank with you, I had two objectives in my mind when I organized this visit. The first one was a bit anecdotal: I wished to show to the staff how the Calibre Diver I was wearing during my stay in Rome looked like with a khaki rubber strap! The second objective was to see again the Drive collection to check if my feeling about the Drive collection, was still very positive. And the last objective was to check if there wasn't any hidden high horology nugget in the boutique... because at the end, it is one of the main characteristics of any Cartier boutique: you are always surprised to find a spectacular piece!
So as you can understand it, I was pretty excited by the perspective of this visit. Let's discover the pieces I had the chance to put on my wrist!
The superb nameplate at the entrance of the boutique: The
Calibre Diver Blue is a very important piece for Cartier. Obviously, we can't consider it as a big novelty since it is an evolution of an existing model. But we don't have to forget that it is the first Cartier watch with a Ceramic bezel. The blue atmosphere works very well with the style of the watch and, it is a kind of surprise for me, even better with the PG version. The blue dial creates lovely shades of color and I appreciate the visual rendering of the bezel.
The big question is to know which is the best color for this watch. There isn't actually any definitive answer. It depends on what you look for. If you want to use the Calibre Diver as a basic of your collection, I would suggest to choose the black one. The blue one is maybe less versatile and more casual. If you look for a watch for the summer which would take advantage of a sunny weather to radiate light effects, the blue version is definitively the best option.
The pictured watch uses the calfskin strap with a rubber lining. I still don't understand why the blue rubber strap of the US market is not available everywhere. Anyway, this Calibre Diver Blue is one of my fav Cartier watches of the year.
We already spoke a lot about the new
Drive collection. Step by step, all the versions which were unveiled at the last SIHH are becoming available at the boutiques.
This version which combines PG case and slate dial is one of the most refined of the collection. It is not the most legible one because sometimes the contrast between the hands and the dial is too low. But I love how the case adds a touch of warmth on the dial. Moreover, the case color reinforces its perfect design. Its shape is at the end quite classic but also original at the same time. I would have howerer preferred to see the second hand subdial at a lower position but it is due to the own diameter of the movement 1904MC.
Honestly, I was surprised to find already at the boutique in Rome the second timezone version in stainless steel of the
Drive watch.
I do believe that this specific watch is the best way to enter the Drive collection: you take advantage of the case shape and of a lovely dial lay-out. I like the way the second time zone is displayed. Obviously, we find again the similar system used with the Rotonde. A retrograde hand is used to display this timezone on a 12 hours scale and it is combined with a day/night display.
Look at the shapes of the displays: they are all different and this gathering creates a beautiful energy on the dial.
The 40x41mm case is balanced and is worn with comfort since the lubs are short and very curved.
A very convincing watch.
We jump into a very different price range with the
Tank Louis Cartier Skeleton Sapphire watch. I wrote a lot about this watch already and it's pure logic. It is my fav Cartier of the last years.
Everything in this watch is perfectly achieved: the size (30x39mm), the flat case design and obviously the finishes and the architecture of the movement.
When I observe it, I have the feeling to be in front of a light and delicate machine. But don't get it wrong! The caliber 9622MC features strong performances with a power reserve of 3 days and a 4hz frequency.
Elegant and comfortable, easy to wear, spectacular of both sides, this watch gathers the best of Cartier: refined style and strong horological content. A masterpiece.
The problem with some Cartier watches which use the Flying Tourbillon movement (the 9452MC) is that I may find them a bit too large for the 25mm diameter of the movement. Because it is a known fact: this movement is rather small and shall be used with cases with reasonable sizes.
Fortunately, this version of the
Cartier Ballon Bleu Flying Tourbillon is flawless. The 39mm diameter is the right one and like magic, the dial becomes more balanced.
So, everything is ready to fully enjoy the superb behaviour of the Tourbillon which occupies almost all the lower side of the dial. The size reduction of this watch was really a good idea!
One of the assets of the Cartier Manufacture is its ability to offer alternative Perpetual Calendar displays.
Look at this
Rotonde which gathers a
Perpetual Calendar and a chronograph. The date is indicated thanks to a peripheral scale. The most interesting point is the retrograde display of the days of the week. The months and the leap year use the same subdial. The 42mm case is large enough to make the data legible and to keep the elegance of the piece. I would however used a different hand color for the chronograph functions.
The watch is powered by the movement 9423MC which features a power reserve of 48 hours and a 4hz frequency.
This
Tortue XXL Perpetual Calendar watch offers a similar display. It is a spectacular watch with an open dial which reinforces the technical side. The 45,6 x 51mm size gives to this Tortue a strong presence on the wrist and we know that with a non-round watch, each mm can dramatically change the feeling of the dimensions and the way we perceive them.
The peripheral display works even better in this context and I love how the retrograde day display is integrated into the overall design.
The caliber 9422MC has a similar performance than the 9423MC with a slightly higher power reserve. This Tortue XXL Perpetual Calendar is not a mere classic watch. It is a watch with a strong character!
The Panther is the symbol of Cartier. So I couldn't leave the boutique without a reminder of this fact! And what is better than this beautiful
Rotonde Mystery? The Panther motif was created with grisaille gold-paste enamel and the visual rendering is gorgeous. Even the diamonds seem to become more discreet in front of this Panther which surrounds the mysterious time display.
Actually, the artistic approach is for me the best way to take advantage of the specific lay-out of the Rotonde Mystery and this watch is an excellent proof that when the artistic approach and the technical features are on the same page, the achievement can only be successful.
The case diameter is 42mm but the watch looks a bit larger due to its specific dial.
But sadly, the morning was almost over and it was time to leave the boutique and to resume my walk on the Via Condotti. So I need now to tell you how to finish this perfect morning. Just walk a bit toward the Piazza di Spagna:
...And have again a wonderdul coffee at the Antico Caffee Greco!
Because at the end, it is not forbidden to enjoy a Cappucino before and after the visit of the Cartier boutique!
To be fully honest with you, I went just after the visit to the Pincio and to take sunny pictures of the Calibre Diver. But that's a different story!
I would like to thank a lot the staff of the Cartier boutique for the warm welcome.
Fx
This message has been edited by foversta on 2016-09-10 13:46:07