Cartier Métiers d’Art Watch Collection 2013 part 6: Straw Marquetry

Since Cartier decided to set up the Haute Horlogerie division, they have tried new techniques in both future technology and ancient skills to explore the possibilities of craftsmanship. On one hand, they are pushing the frontiers of mechanical engineering and on the other hand, they are reviving forgotten decorative arts like plique-à-jour enamelling, grisaille enamelling, straw marquetry, granulation and cameo.

In this sixth report of the techniques found in the Métiers d’Art Watch Collection, we will be looking at an ancient handcraft technique  – Straw Marquetry.

Straw marquetry is a handicraft similar to wood marquetry, except that straw is used instead of wood veneer. The common blog sites and press releases state that the craft is thought to have first been practised in the East with examples brought to England in the 17th century.  Let's explore this assertion. 

Straw art exists across Asia and it is prevalent in regions without trees for wood. Even today, Mongolia and Central Asian Steppes are exporters of straw art.  

 Eastern Straw Art

 
Screen with Three Chinese Ladies: Straw Marquetry

 
Uzbekistan Coat-of-arms from central Asia: Straw Marquetry

Japanese New Year straw wreaths (shimenawa) and temple adornments are popular souvenirs but straw marquetry did not achieve the high status of other media like lacquerware and wood marquetry. This is possibly because straw has good braided construction strength but poor durability as marquetry. Thus, there is a tradition of rustic straw art from the Far East.

 
Shimenawa New Year Wreath

Japanese Straw Giant Sandals

For scale, the black square is half the height of an adult person.

 
Japanese Farmer's Straw Apparel

Western Straw Marquetry

Easter eggs are decorated with straw applique in the Christian tradition especially in Eastern European countries. There is a slight difference in the way the straw is prepared; for marquetry, the straws are soaked, split and ironed; for egg decoration the straw is not ironed.

To mimic the varying shades of wood veneer, wheat or oat straw is split, then soaked in cold, warm, or hot water. The strips are then ironed yielding a variety of tones from pale gold to dark brown. Colour could be added to the surface with various varnishes, which also enhanced the glossy appearance of the marquetry.

There are accounts of nuns in France and Switzerland making items using straw marquetry.

The craft nearly disappeared until the 1930s when it was 'reinvented' by André Groult and Jean Michel Frank in the period of Art Deco. It has been practiced since then, mostly in France. 

 

Place of origin: France
Date: ca.1770
Artist/Maker: Unknown
Materials and Techniques: Straw marquetry on pine with cast brass fittings

The most well known straw marquetry was produced by prisoners of war from the Napoleonic wars and the most famous prison for straw marquetry was H.M. Prison Norman Cross in Huntingdon, England.

 
Place of origin: London, England
Date: 1732
Artist/Maker: Hering, C. F.
Materials and Techniques: Straw marquetry

 
It starts with a bundle of raw straw.

 
Natural straw produces six different colours from golden yellow to reddish brown. 

 
For the last 2 years, Cartier has been highlighting straw marquetry; a technique for restoring graduated colour by creating warm silky shades.

The straw is first split and flattened then cut with a marquetry saw and assembled piece by piece from golden yellow to reddish brown, the natural straw colours and shades add light to the drawing.

 

Cartier Rotonde de Cartier koala motif was launched in 2012.

Cartier Métiers d’Art Watch Collection 2013 

 

Cartier Rotonde de Cartier lion motif was launched in 2013.

The majesty and imperious demeanour of Panthere Leo (Lion) is captured with the rich spectrum of colours and texture afforded by the straw.

Techniques and creative perspective produce a dignified and noble lion pattern. It takes about 45 hours of work to complete the straw marquetry dial.

Cartier Métiers d’Art Series

Cartier Métiers d’Art part 1 - Grisaille Enamel: CLICK the following URL link:
cartier.watchprosite.com

Cartier Métiers d’Art part 2 - Miniature Painting and Plique-à-jour Enamel: CLICK the following URL link:
cartier.watchprosite.com

Cartier Métiers d’Art part 3 - Engraving and Champlevé Enamel: CLICK the following URL link:
cartier.watchprosite.com

Cartier Métiers d’Art part 4 - Gold Granulation: CLICK the following URL link:
cartier.watchprosite.com

Cartier Métiers d’Art part 5 - Agate Cameo Carving: CLICK the following URL link:
cartier.watchprosite.com

Cartier Métiers d’Art part 6 - Straw Marquetry: CLICK the following URL link:

cartier.watchprosite.com

Dr M. Teillol-Foo (2013) PuristSPro