The Cartier Calibre Diver was unveiled at the SIHH 2014. It is first real diving watch from Cartier and despite this premiere, it is distinguished by the respect for the codes of the brand in an unusual context. Hardly thicker than the basic Calibre Automatic (11mm vs 10mm), the Calibre Diver offers a slender (thanks to the 42mm diameter) and rather elegant style allowing it to be at ease in all circumstances even far from... an aquatic environment.

From the point of view of performance, it complies with the ISO 6425 standards and provides a water-resistance to 300 meters. Even if for a diver, I tend to prefer a central second hand, the Superluminova treatment is effective and brings into focus the key indicators. The spirit of the brand is reflected in the imposing XII at the top of the dial, in the shape of the case and in the octagonal crown set with a synthetic faceted spinel.




The first version of the Calibre Diver uses the traditional color codes of the diving watches with a black dial offering a strong contrast with the hands and the other luminous elements. I also like very much the design of this watch that I find more convincing in this "diver" evolution than in the basic version. It is at the same time more daring and its versatility allows it to be worn with a suit without any problem. The rubber strap which comes with the watch is comfortable and aesthetically blends well with the watch elements. However, I would have preferred a less smooth texture in contact with the skin. In other words, the pins of the above would have been also welcome under the strap to make the skin better breathe and avoid an excessive sweat.

The SIHH 2016 was marked by the presentation of the Calibre Diver with blue dial and bezel. Blue is perhaps the trendiest color in the watch industry and therefore it is not surprising to discover that this version which is available with all available cases: steel, pink gold and two-tone.



However, there are two major differences between the blue and the black versions that go beyond the pure chromatic change. The first difference is that the blue bezel is made of ceramic, which is a first for Cartier. I remind you that the bezel of the first version of the  Calibre Diver is made of steel coated with ADLC. The ceramic bezel has different features than the steel one: it is obviously much more stable since it doesn't have any coating. However, in theory, it has a higher risk of breakage.

The second difference is related to the bracelet. The black rubber strap is  replaced (in the version I tested) by a blue calfskin strap with a rubber lining manufactured by Hirsch. I love this bracelet,  very flexible and very pleasant both from the aesthetic and comfort points of view. The shape of the rubber elements makes the air circulate better and the skin sweats less than with the rubber bracelet of the Calibre Diver black.

The lovely combination between the color of the bezel and the spinel one. You will also notice the shape of the rubber elements that contributes to the comfort and allows  the skin to better breathe:




When I discovered the Calibre Diver Blue at the SIHH, I was not totally seduced by the rendering of the blue, both on the dial and on the bezel. Was it due to the prototype? The lights conditions? In any case, the final version which has just reached the boutiques  convinces me more on this point thanks to a more intense and deeper blue. Surprisingly, the blue matches well the pink gold case and gives a more original side to the watch. The steel version is less surprising because the combination between blue dial and neutral case material is relatively common in the world of diving watches.


The movement that powers the Calibre Diver Blue is obviously still the in-house caliber 1904-PS MC. This double barrel movement is efficient and has an excellent winding efficiency. The double barrel aims to increase the torque but not the power reserve (48 hours) which however remains long enough.



The Calibre Diver Blue is for me a successful evolution of the first version even if its presentation is not surprising. The new color scheme makes it more casual than its predecessor. It appeared to me more fun but at the same time less versatile from the pure style perspective than the black version. The choice between the two versions is in my opinion based on the expected use of the watch. If the aim of the watch is to become the basic of the collection, I have a preference for the black version. If its aim is to be a complement in the same collection, the blue becomes  very attractive and impresses me with its less formal side ... not to mention the beautiful combination between the color of the bezel and the spinel one.

The pink gold version offers a more surprising contrast of colors:




Thanks to the team of the Cartier boutique of Paris Capucines.

Pros:
+ The new color scheme that makes the watch less formal
+ The finishes of the bezel and of the dial
+ The efficient movement 1904-PS MC
+ The comfort of the bracelet

Cons:
- The power reserve is large enough but a little short by today's standards (48 hours)
- The blue version is less aesthetically versatile than the black version

This message has been edited by foversta on 2016-06-27 13:56:40