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Pre-SIHH 2013: Calibre de Cartier chronograph with in-house movement

SJX
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As a preview of the new watches that will be shown at SIHH 2013, Cartier has announced the new Calibre de Cartier chronograph with in-house 1904-CH MC movement. A chronograph is the obvious choice to extend the Calibre de Cartier line, since the watch case is intended as a sporty, masculine style.

This will be available in rose gold or steel, with the option of a leather strap with folding buckle or a matching bracelet.

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The chronograph retains several of the design cues of the time-only Calibre de Cartier, like the three-date aperture as well as the prominent crown guards.

A thoughtful detail is the minute track that is engraved on the inner rim of the bezel.

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Specs of the Calibre de Cartier chronograph:

Diameter: 42 mm
Crown: seven-sided crown in steel adorned with a faceted blue synthetic spinel
Crystal: sapphire
Case back: sapphire
Water-resistance: 100 m / 330 feet / 10 bars
Dial: silvered opaline dial, snailed in part, stamped on the XII numeral, the hour markers and aperture, Roman numerals and black transferred hour markers. Two snailed counters (hour/minute) with diamond-set bevel.
Bezel: steel with engraved rail-track
Hands: sword-shaped in black oxidised steel with a luminescent coating

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And movement specifications:

Movement: Manufacture self-winding mechanical chronograph calibre 1904-CH, calendar window at 6 o’clock
Casing-up diameter: 11 ½ lines, 25.58 mm
Total diameter: 26.18 mm
Thickness: 5.71 mm
Number of jewels: 35
Number of parts: 269
Balance: 28,800 vibrations / hour (4Hz)
Power reserve: 48 hours
Finish: côtes de Genève

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The movement is based on the 1904 MC and highlights include:

- Column wheel, visible through display back

- Vertical clutch Linear hammer for chronograph reset

- Double barrels

- Ceramic ball bearings for rotor 

- Bi-directional click winding mechanism

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Notice that the chronograph construction is very similar to calibres from other Richemont brands, notably JLC.

For those wondering the click winding mechanism is similar to Seiko's magic lever.

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Live photos to come soon.

- SJX

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This message has been edited by SJX on 2012-11-16 01:53:51

Comments:
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Nicko16 November 16th, 2012-05:11
Its Nice! But I wish they would make the date window a single number
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Ed. W November 16th, 2012-06:30
Glad to see it's a proper chronograph (albeit made by JLC). Looking forwards to some live photos.
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SJX November 16th, 2012-20:37
It is an in-house calibre not made by JLC. Though as I noted there are similarities in the construction. - SJX
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Ed. W November 16th, 2012-21:47
Alright I'll have to let Cartier go on this one although a helping hand from La Grande Maison may not be a bad thing.
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AnthonyTsai November 16th, 2012-08:11
Very nice!  
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jporos November 16th, 2012-09:11
Steel version is quite nice... look forward to seeing some photos on the wrist.
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foversta November 16th, 2012-13:24
The powerful design of the case works well with this complication. Thanks SJX! Fx
rockmastermike November 16th, 2012-13:31
Very Handsome nt  
lexxori November 19th, 2012-17:07
Thought I could warm up to this... ... but Calibre does not do it for me...
kpk December 9th, 2012-08:45
SJX, do you like this piece? What would be the pricing for the SS version?
0-10-10

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SJX
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A look at the Santos-Dumont with horse mosaic

SJX
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Last year at SIHH Cartier unveiled the Rotonde de Cartier with turtle motif and the response from clients was extremely positive - the 10 pieces sold out in a flash. So for 2012 a mosaic technique was used for the Santos Dumont in white gold, though with a twist. Before the pieces of the mosaic are put in place, however, the dial begins with the white gold base. The neck, mane and nose of the horse are hand-engraved solid gold, while the rest of the animal is outlined in gold as well.


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