image

A chance encounter with the Chopard XP Skeletec

mkt33
Avatar

The LUC Skeletec was, in retrospect, the most interesting watch I saw during my visit to the Madison Ave. Chopard Boutique.  

 

none

 

I once owned an example of the LUC QF.  However as much as I admired the movement and the QF certification, the watch was seldomly worn.   Why? I couldn't fall in love with the aesthetics of the dial no matter how hard I tried.

The modified hands and conical indicies just didn't work for me. The lume, while outstanding, shouldn’t have been on what I considered to be a dress watch.   Also the noticible rotor wobble and slight noise of the Cal. 9.96 were distracting for me.  

 

none

 

Now four years later, the Skeletec has the right blend of traditional and contemporary looks for my tastes.   Of course the most obvious detail is the partially skeletonized dial.

 

 

none

 

The bridges are skeletonized in a circular motif to reveal the underlying wheels of the gear train.   This contemporary design element is coupled with classical details on the rest of the dial. The applied rose gold baton for hour markers, the dauphine hands, the lack of lume remind the owner that the LUC Skeletec is meant as a dress watch.  

 

none

 

If you take a close look, you will find that the dial not only has a pleasant contrast of colors between rose gold and rhodium gray but it also displays several finishing techniques:   From the horizontal geneva stripes on the skeleltonized bridges, to the radially brushed finish of the stacked barrels, to the perlage on the visible underside of the 22k microrotor and, and finially to the polished anglage on components of the keyless works.

Some have criticized Chopard for the apparent asymmetry of the 3 - 4 o'clock cutout to expose the keyless works, I for one think it is an interesting touch and keeps it looking like other partially skeletonized watches out on the marketplace.

 

The Caliber 96.17-S, I think is just an evolution of the Cal 9.6. The skeletonized bridges continue the same circular motif through the display back.On this particular sample, the rotor wobble and noise are thankfully gone.  

 

none

none

 

The case and lugs are now one piece.Perhaps a bit of an easier construction technique compared to the previously laser welded lugs on the LUC QF.  

Noticed the stepped lugs on the QF.

 none

Now lugs are continuous with the case on the Skeletec.

 

none

But on the wrist, the models rocks.   Definitely the LUC Skeletec is a contender for my next watch purchase.

 

 none

 

Best, Mike

 



This message has been edited by MTF on 2013-04-15 09:04:54

Comments:
Avatar
MTF April 15th, 2013-08:59
LUC Chopard XP Skeletec has no wobble? Dear Mike, Thank you for the recent report of the LUC Chopard XP Skeletec, whose skeletonised movement is based on the cal 9.96. I note with interest your observation that the micro-rotor 'wobble' is diminished in the sample you examined. I must admit tha... 
Avatar
mkt33 April 16th, 2013-07:52
Hey, which model is that? and why has it been hidden from view? :-) I handled the Skeletec very carefully and wasn't to aggressive with it on the wrist. Afterall it was piece brought in for WatchWeek and I didn't want to break it :-) Next time I'll play with it a bit more and see if my initial observation regarding the la... 
Avatar
patrick_y April 17th, 2013-10:52
I like the old lugs... I really like the old laser-welded lugs on the previous case. But agreed, the aesthetics of the dial is a little off.
Alvin Hong April 17th, 2013-20:31
It's gorgeous I like it too. Very elegant. But not my better half, so I don't have one :(
0-10-4

Load More Comments




 Next Article
image
AndrewD
Avatar

A visit to the Fleurier Ebauches Workshops

AndrewD
Avatar
Fleurier Ebauches provides further evidence that Chopard intends to be a powerhouse in Swiss watchmaking. Not content with just producing hand-made exotica in the L.U.Chopard range, Chopard established Fleurier Ebauches in 2008 to produce a greater number of in-house movements and guarantee their independence and vertical integration. There was still some construction going on around the manufacture when I visited in October last year, but inside is a hive of activity ... I was fortunate enough to get a glimpse inside Fleurier Ebauches.


Go to top.

About US | Contact

© 2017 - WatchProZine