The Chopard Grand Complication

L.U.C Perpetual Chrono - Sketch

L.U.C Perpetual Chrono Platinum

As I intimated before, the new L.U.C Perpetual Chrono is perhaps my 2nd favourite 2017 novelty presented by Chopard at Baselworld fair.  Read previous Baselworld 2017 Chopard Report [click]

Although, I'm equivocal about platinum as a case material, I went with my head rather than my heart. I prefer white metals nowadays so the silvery grey of platinum is a good match for the trendy blue dial. The real attractions are of course, the sublime hand-wound chronograph and a fine perpetual calendar combining features from two of my best L.U.C timepieces: L.U.C Lunar One and L.U.C 1963 Chrono.

This 20-piece L.U.C Perpetual Chrono limited edition "is intended for modern gentlemen, connoisseurs and devotees of exceptional objects", which is the definition of PuristS like Mr Karl-Friedrich Scheufele and us.

Karl-Friedrich Scheufele wearing L.U.C 1963 Chrono PuristS Edition

Calibre 03.10-L

We've seen the finely crafted Calibre 03.10-L movement base before in the special L.U.C 1963 Chrono PuristS Edition 'without date', as worn by the boss himself all week at Baselworld.

The base movement is the Calibre 03.07-L.

Calibre L.U.C 03.10-L

Entirely developed and manufactured by the Chopard Haute Horlogerie workshops, L.U.C calibre 03.10-L is constructed around a column wheel that controls all chronograph operations including the flyback function.

The zero-reset is accomplished by progressive-contact hammers to ensure precise action. The smooth but firm activation of the timing-related components is served by a vertical coupling clutch.

Upon this most excellent base mechanism, they built the perpetual calendar of the L.U.C Perpetual Chrono.

Calibre L.U.C 03.10-L

Legible Dial

L.U.C Perpetual Chrono Platinum

This calendar is familiar with large twin-aperture date display, surrounded by indicators of day, month and cycle of standard and leap years.

To top it all, the useful day/night indicator and exquisite orbital moon-phase display complete the dial.

The latter achieves a graphic and accurate reading of the moon age, with only one-day deviation every 122 years.

L.U.C Perpetual Chrono - Sketch

Achieving better legibility than most 'grand complications', the architecture of the perpetual calendar was adjusted to offset the day/night indicator by a few millimetres.

A matching adjustment was made for the leap year indicator to give a quaint feline-like face.

Depending on your generational age, you may "see" Felix the Cat or Hello Kitty or Pikachu as the face of your timepiece.

L.U.C Perpetual Chrono Platinum

Double Certification of Precision

L.U.C Perpetual Chrono Platinum

The L.U.C Perpetual Chrono has earned double certification by independent authorities. The rating precision of its L.U.C Calibre 03.10-L was certified by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC).

Each platinum watch – both movement and case – has successfully met the evaluation criteria of the Poinçon de Genève (Geneva Seal).

Formerly attesting to the movement only, the Poinçon de Genève currently subjects the whole watch to the test as a guarantee of superlative craftsmanship.

L.U.C Perpetual Chrono Platinum

The movement quality criteria are supported by other standards such as water resistance, precision, chronograph and perpetual calendar functions, as well as the power reserve, that are meticulously appraised before being awarded the quality hallmark.

Chopard proudly belongs to the select circle of Haute Horlogerie brands in Geneva that continue to be tested independently.

L.U.C Perpetual Chrono - Sketch

Noble and Ethical materials

L.U.C Perpetual Chrono - Sketch

After a limited series in Fairmined gold launched in 2016, the L.U.C Perpetual Chrono appears in platinum this year.

950 platinum is a noble and completely stable metal with a neutral shade of grey.

The 45 mm case is vertically satin-brushed on the sides and mirror-polished on the bezel as well as the lugs, to create a textured finish that gives it greater visual depth and design 'tension'.

The dial of the L.U.C Perpetual Chrono is solid gold, decorated with a hand-guilloché motif radiating from the large twin-aperture date display.

A galvanic treatment endows it with its deep blue shade, the colour chosen by Chopard for all its platinum limited series, that creates subtle light effects from the hand-guilloché 'radiating rays'.

L.U.C Perpetual Chrono Platinum

Noble materials are also used on the L.U.C calibre 03.10-L, which is made of nickel silver, a naturally light grey alloy that is ideal as a surface treatment but cannot tolerate scratches.

Nickel silver is harder than brass, more resistant to oxidation and acquires a natural patina. Any mistake made in executing the Côtes de Genève motif, circular-graining, satin-brushing and polishing on the movement is irretrievable. This movement thus calls for the most expert hands in the Chopard Manufacture.

The strap of the L.U.C Perpetual Chrono is rightfully noble too and made of hand-sewn, large square-scaled, vegetable-tanned, alligator leather. As with a bespoke suit, the lining is as good as the outside of the suit; Chopard made the strap lining from chestnut brown small square-scaled alligator leather.

L.U.C Perpetual Chrono Platinum

Measurement of Time: Long and Short Epochs

The perpetual calendar chronograph is a unique complication; it measures two time frames: the long scale of a calendar indicating over centuries, and the short scale for small epochs of timing.

This duality is the marvel of our wondrous hobby.

In Use

I have but only one complaint; it seems inconceivable but Chopard has actually improved on my two L.U.C timepieces in this deadly blue nightshade L.U.C Perpetual Chrono combination.

Even the chronograph pusher action is slightly better than my 'PuristS Chronograph'.....

Just in case, the 'plain' version is not distinctive enough for you, they also have a vastly exorbitant variant:  L.U.C Perpetual Chrono Platinum Gem-Set.

It is the proverbial Chopard Bee's Knees..........

L.U.C Perpetual Chrono Platinum Gem-Set

Regards,

MTF

Technical details

Case:
950 platinum
Total diameter  45 mm
Thickness   15.06 mm
Water resistance 30 metres
18ct white gold crown with L.U.C logo 8.50 mm
18ct white gold pushers
Vertical satin-brushed case middle
Polished bezel and back
Exhibition back
Glareproofed sapphire crystal

L.U.C Perpetual Chrono Platinum

Movement:
Hand-wound movement L.U.C 03.10-L
Number of components: 452
Total diameter  33.00 mm
Thickness  8.32 mm
Number of jewels  42
Frequency   28,800 vph (4 Hz)
Power reserve   60 hours
Nickel silver mainplate and bridges
Côtes de Genève motif adorning the bridges
Chronometer-certified by the COSC
Poinçon de Genève

Dial and hands:
Solid gold dial with hand-guilloché pattern centred around the date, galvanic blue sunburst satin-brushed pattern centred around the date – snailed blue case middle – blue and white transfers
Rhodiumed Roman numerals and hour-markers
Rhodiumed Dauphine-type hands for the hours, minutes, small seconds, day and month counters
Baton-type rhodiumed red-tipped chronograph sweep-seconds hand
Minute track

Functions and displays:
Central display of the hours and minutes
Small seconds at 6 o’clock
Large date at 12 o’clock
Days of the week displayed at 9 o’clock and months at 3 o’clock
Orbital moon display at 6 o’clock
Offset day/night display at 10 o’clock and offset leap-year indication at 2 o’clock
Vertical coupling-clutch chronograph with flyback function
12-hour counter at 9 o’clock
30-minute counter at 3 o’clock
Time-setting with stop-seconds function

Strap and buckle:
Hand-sewn matt blue alligator leather strap, brown alligator leather lining
Platinum pin buckle

Ref. 161973-9001 – in platinum
20-piece limited edition