Let’s continue with reviewing the Novelties from this year’s SIHH in more detail and let’s look at the Girard-Perregaux Classic Bridges 45mm and 40mm.
Many thanks to Blomman again for providing the live shots from SIHH
I must openly admit, that was a novelty I did not expect at all. Yes, more complications on the Laureato like a chronograph was kind of expected and that GP will have again a high complication exceptional time piece in one form or another for us, was also expected. GP still surprised us though with that mind-blowing Tri-Axial Tourbillon Minute Repeater.
But let’s go back to the Classic Bridges and let’s look back a couple of years to 2016. 2016 marked the 225th anniversary of GP since Bautte started in 1791.
And for this anniversary, GP released a Limited Edition of 225 individually themed watches under the label Place Girardet.
So why do I come back to this watch? Because it was the first time, that GP put the iconic bridge design, here a single arrow-shaped golden bridge in a watch without a Tourbillon. Instead the bridge is holding the front-visible balance wheel.
Why was that step so important? Well, as PuristS we may say that Golden Bridges and Tourbillon belong together like escapement and pallet fork and if you look at one of the Tourbillon creations with three-golden bridges, like the 45mm Tourbillon with arched bridges:
it seems like a sacrilege to use the golden bridges with a plain balance wheel.
But then, the creation of a Tourbillon is one of the most complicated and time-consuming complications that comes at a certain price and prevents the golden bridge design to become more accessible at lower price points.
So reducing the complexity by removing the Tourbillon, gives GP the ability to produce larger numbers at attractive prices.
The Place Girardet was a one-off limited edition that got its charm from the individually designed dials.
The second follow-up in that “Bridge” theme was the Neo Bridges from last year:
The Neo Bridges is a through-and-through modern watch and with its technical appeal, the absence of the Tourbillon is no issue at all.
So what should we make of the new creation that combines the classic golden bridge design with the look of the Neo Bridges and its open-face dial?
My first impression is that this is a watch you should not judge from photos. It provides its special appeal through its highly polished finishing and the sparkle when moving in the light.
To me that is the most compelling part of the new Classic Bridges. Technically, it is very much like the Neo Bridges and you can easily see the family relationship between both calibers.
While the Place Girardet sported the variable inertia free-sprung balance, called Microvar by GP, both the Neo Bridges as well as the classic bridges opted for a different, simpler solution.
There is intention behind that though. The Neo and the Classic Bridge balance wheel beats at 21600 vph, unlike the Place Girardet with Microvar at 28,800 vph.
The slower beat, simply provide a more visible action of the mechanism, hence it was chosen to have it beat slower so the owner can fully appreciate the mechanical work taking place.
I remain a bit torn. With the classic golden bridges, I associate the Tourbillon, but then I also like the fact that the exceptional finishing of the golden bridges becomes more affordable.
The Neo Bridges bypasses this issue with the modern arched titanium bridges. But then, I was also a bit hesitant about the Neo Bridges at the beginning but then it really convinced me when I was able to try it on.
I assume, I will be equally convinced by the Classic Bridges once I can put my hands on it. So I will surely report back with more views once that took place.
Now coming to the difference between the 45mm and the 40mm versions.
Obviously there is quite a size difference. In fact, the difference of 5mm is relatively large so it is not just a matter of a smaller or larger wrist, I think.
Here are two wristshots comparing both.
Also the bridges on the 40mm are quite a bit smaller, while the overall design is identical, yet just shrunk to fit the smaller case.
What I’m actually thinking here is that perhaps GP created the perfect “His and Hers” watch pair. I think 40mm can be confidently worn by the modern woman, and the 45mm, even large, will fit most men perfectly well.
So if you have a wedding coming up…
Best,
CC
Technical Specifications:
Classic Bridges 45 mm / 40 mm
Case:
Material: pink gold
Diameter: 45.00 mm / 40.00 mm
Height: 12.15 mm / 11.70 mm
Water resistance: 30 metres (3 ATM)
Movement
Reference: GP08600-0002 / GP08600-0001, mechanical with automatic winding
Diameter: 37.20 mm (161/2’’’) / 32 mm (14¼’’’)
Frequency: 21,600 Vib/h – (3 Hz)
Number of components: 207
Jewels: 29
Power reserve: min. 48 hours
Functions: hours, minutes
Reference 86000-52-001-BB6A / 86005-52-001-BB6A
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