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Baselworld 2013: Highlights from Romain Jerome

Ornatus-Mundi
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Baselworld 2013: Highlights from Romain Jerome

The world of watchmaking is as diverse as never before and offerings cover all market ranges, complications and tastes. Sometimes you cannot make out the wood for the trees and the danger is you miss an interesting offering. Too often it happens.

So what to do? Stick to the major players? Guarantees high click and reply rates. 

I made it a habit of getting out of my horological comfort zone when I visit the fairs, especially Basel. Romain Jerome is one such example where it takes some audacity to wage a report. RJ, since a couple of years headed by former Jaquet-Droz CEO Manuel Emch, puts exotic if not literally exorbitant materials into the focus of their offerings: titanic DNA, volcanic DNA, moondust DNA, you get the message. Ridicule was a common reaction to these watches. 

Last year Oliver and myself paid a visit to the RJ booth and discovered some unusual conceptual approaches wrapped into a concise package consisting of a highly individual design, solid yet conventional watchmaking and excellent detail quality.

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Manuel Emch then hinted that the term 'unusual' will soon be associated with RJ's mechanics as well. This year the first two results could be seen, one already on the market (and very successfully so if I look at the wrist of a few fellow collectors and journalists ;-)) and one just to be presented - the first one that could rightfully be called haute horlogerie.

Let's start with the latter one: The RJ Moon Orbiter!

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What is this? Let's go through this clockwise (how else?) from the top. First, there is a window with - nothing? Wrong, it showcases the dial that contains real moon dust:

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Following this there is an eccentric time display at 3 o'clock:

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And a power reserve indicator at 6 o'clock. But what is the strange element at the left?

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The seconds display aka flying tourbillon!

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And what a tourbillon it is! Monochromatic, technical, brute - and...

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... massive! Its cage strongly resembles a space rocket.

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The display back exposes an automatic movement with an unusual rotor:

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The rotor is not the only strange element. The entire tourbillon bridge simulates a spacecraft launch platform.

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Its really worth to inspect the naked movement in detail. It clearly has character, a strong polarising one. The very technical finish eliminates any doubt:

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The dial side is more in line of what one expects from a complication. Fine perlage throughout.

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The real interesting part however is the tourbillon assembly. An elaborated construction suspends the cage in mid-air:

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Note how massive all the elements are!

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It is refreshing to see how apparently simple the entire movement layout is. It is not, for sure, but the overall design just focusses on creating a stage for the tourbillon. And the tourbillon itself demands just the right level of attention and does not dominate the watch.

Which would be a pity as it has much more to offer: The dial for example (see above), or the case:

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The case is crafted from stainless steel and alloyed with real parts from the Apollo 11 spacecraft (RJ certainly would not do it without...). 

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The material must be quite expensive as much surface is made of sapphire crystal ;-). I like how the RJ designers have used the available openness to emphasise the tourbillon suspension:

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As can be easily imagined the case is not exactly tiny. In fact, 44.5mm x 48.5mm have to be matched to the wrist. The larger the watch the more difficult it is to find a one-fits-it-all design. RJ kept this in mind and came up with a really well executed flexible system.

A cylinder system ensures that the watch nicely wraps around any wrist. It has the added benefit that it even adjusts automatically to changing wrist diameters (e.g. during the day):

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I could barely wait until Mr Emch had finished his explanations on the machine and I finally could strap it on. Boy does this have presence!

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Whatever angle you look at it gives the impression of a compact, powerful deus-in-machina.

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The dimensions are well balanced with the design features and give it a - relatively! - non-obstructive character.

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I could to help but this watch seems to talk to me.... Fasten your seat belts and put your space-seat in an upright position...!

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The second watch I'd like to present is already known to some: the RJ Spacecraft:

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A highly original watch stemming from the joint endeavours of Manuel Emch, Eric Giroud and Jean-Marc Wiederrecht - the latter two well-known suspects when it comes to unusual horological objects or machines...

So, what does to produce?

“The combination of these four functions – lateral, linear, jumping and retrograde hours – is unprecedented”, says Jean-Marc Wiederrecht. Its also not very difficult to grasp if I may say so.

The main centre of attention is the laterally jumping retrograde hours display on the front:

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The corresponding fine-tuning, i.e. the read-out of the minutes, is located on the back. Its a comparatively conventional continuous minute disk: 

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The case itself is a modern interpretion of the 'futuristic' watches watches from the 60s and 70s like the GP Casquette or - even closer! - the Synchronar:

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"An unusual trapeze-shaped model featuring a black PVD-coated titanium case, the Spacecraft both surprises and intrigues. Its rectilinear profile and its facetted surface echo the aesthetic of spacecraft." [Press Kit]

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 "A black rotating disc with a red indicator transferred on the sapphire crystal indicates the minutes on the top of the case, while the linear hour display is read off laterally, thereby giving time a whole new dimension." [Press Kit]

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"Time-setting is done via a screw-lock crown at 12 o’clock." [Press Kit]

A cigar for the press team - where please is the 12 o'clock position on a quadrangular watch with a "linear hour display [that] is read off laterally"?

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Certainly not where the text describes...

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Again Manuel Emch had something under his sleeve - the uncased movement! And like the Moon Orbiter's clockwork its outer appearance belies the technology within (which is where the third mastermind behind the project comes into the picture: Jean-Marc Wiederrecht and his team at the Geneva-based manufacturing facility Agenhor):

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The movement features a kind of spring-driven carriage that drives the hour display visible on the side of the watch by means of a red-lacquered cursor moving beneath the metallised sapphire crystal every 60 minutes.

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The carriage glides (better: jumps) on two finely polished rails. Note the tiny rubies that precisely position the carriage and reduce movement friction:

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If you ever come into contact with this watch please do yourself a favour and set the time! The tactile feeling as well as the sound is that of a rugged, well-damped precision mechanism. It has some 'column-wheel' quality to it if you know what I mean.

I shall finish with a couple of wrist shots. However, I have the feeling that they are almost meaningless. Sure, they show that the watch is remarkably wearable, small, and readable. 

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One small criticism here: I found the strap (some nylon-type cloth) very comfortable but I think it does not do the watch justice. Its optically somehow disconnected to the watch and looks like an afterthought.

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But they cannot convey the message in its entirety. The lightness, the skin-friendlyness, the unusual design, the sound, that fact that a strange object captured your wrist - no image can transport the meta-level.

Thus, for a last time I'd like to cite from those who (should) know communications better than I do:

"Space pilots of the world, prepare for lift-off! The Spacecraft will carry you off on an intergalactic mission to explore uncharted territories…  " [Press Kit]

Another cigar to the press team!

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Bottom line: Under Manuel Emch Romain Jerome immensely sharpened its profile and set out to offer specially themed watches that do not only communicate through their (exotic) choice of materials and designs but also (increasingly!) through their indigenous, proprietary mechanisms. RJ made very informed and conscious decisions about the structure and the degree on integration the brand needs to best deliver on this profile, and came to the conclusion to rely on outside experts (design as well as technology) as they deem fit.

This year's offerings which are, and I should point this out clearly, only the two highlights of their novelties. Time constraints unfortunately did not permit any extensive look at the collection. The two watches shown each fascinate in their very own way, deliver original technical and aesthetic solutions and therefore without doubt will help tremendously to shift up the image of the brand amongst collectors. One may like the style or not, they are concise both in themselves as well within the broader collection of RJ timepieces. Thus, its encouraging to see where the brand is going. 

I hope you liked this report!

Thanks for reading,
Magnus

P.S.: This is a report that almost, by a very, very thin line, wouldn't be - but thanks for the efforts of all involved and particularly due to the flexibility of the RJ team it happened in the end. Thank you for that!

This message has been edited by AnthonyTsai on 2013-05-31 15:09:04 This message has been edited by AndrewD on 2013-06-04 22:38:29

Comments:
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aaronm June 2nd, 2013-11:05
I consider this a huge improvement... I still don't like their watches, but at least now I, as a prototypical demanding customer, am LOOKING at them, rather then dismissing the brand offhand... A
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Ornatus-Mundi June 3rd, 2013-04:39
This is great to know... having an open mind does come with surprises! Thanks for your comment, Magnus
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Ed. W June 4th, 2013-00:19
I have to agree, it seems they've moved away from ____ dust/particle/fragments/parts towards offering something horologically interesting.
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Marcus Hanke June 2nd, 2013-14:58
Cool! Love both of them! ... ... thank you for that interesting report. I am glad to see that Mr. Emch is developing the brand, but keeping its embodied "DNA". Regards, Marcus
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Ornatus-Mundi June 3rd, 2013-04:44
Marcus, I think Manuel Emch successfully employs... the skills he learned at Jaquet-Droz, a brand that he very carefully developed as upon the essence (as biologist I have a problem to combine DNA and watch in one sentence ;-)) as he perceived it. Its interesting to witness where he drives RJ. Cheers, Magn... 
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Marcus Hanke June 3rd, 2013-05:02
"Essence" is good ... ... I hated the introduction of "DNA" into the marketing babble, but after years and years of being exposed to its use, I apparently have adopted it. Shame on me ... Marcus
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bernard cheong June 3rd, 2013-02:37
And...when I bought their first watch..rusty Titanic, I too thought I was nuts That watch has actually GAINED in resale...funny. So has the Moondust.
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Ornatus-Mundi June 3rd, 2013-04:48
Bernard... I think its safe to call you a 'certified rogue' when it comes to champion unusual, unknown and under-appreciated watch brand and -makers. I remember myself being full of resentments against the RJ brand when I learned of it first time. It was only after ... 
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bernard cheong June 3rd, 2013-05:25
Hello friend and friends I am a crazy chap. I am happy to read any response to my small remarks. Really...I think I was very very alone in RJ Titanic. I hope that as the purists grow, they become self aware. Notice I said "they", becuase you are already self aware. It is a great ... 
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AndrewD June 4th, 2013-22:37
Thinking outside the box Thanks Magnus, Strong, individual designs. I really like the Moon Orbiter and despite its bulk it seems to sit well on the wrist. Interesting movement architecture as well, so it's not a case of fluff over substance. Well done RJ. Thanks for the report. A... 
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Marcus Hanke
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Baselworld 2013: Longines

Marcus Hanke
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Longines at Baselworld 2013 presented by Marcus Hanke This year Certina and Tissot are celebrating their anniversaries, while last year it was Longines’ turn. To celebrate its 180th anniversary, Longines released a large array of great new watches in the Anniversary and Saint Imier-collections. However, there was some serious delay in getting these watches to the dealers, unfortunately. This year, the manufacturer seems to consolidate the growth of its line-up, so the number of novelties is not very large.


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