Baselworld 2013: Tissot
Marcus Hanke
Tissot at Baselworld 2013
presented by Marcus Hanke
presented by Marcus Hanke
Together with Certina, Tissot is the second Swatch Group brand celebrating an anniversary this year: 160 years ago, the Tissot company was founded. Consequently, the brand is launching several interesting and also unconventional timepieces this year.
The first in the list is also the one expected for the longest time: The T-Touch Solar. While Asian manufacturers, especially Citizen, Seiko and Casio are offering solar-powered analogue multifunctional watches since years, the huge Swatch Group seemed not to emphasise this technology; aside the rather simple Swatch Solar, photovoltaic energy production for watches was not offered.
Finally, the innovative T-Touch gets its own power station, with a solar cell integrated into the dial. While the larger gent’s model was still in its pre-series production status and might see some changes until finally coming into the shops, the various ladies’ models are completed. Not that the solar cell is invisible, and despite being located under the mother-of-pearl of some dials, it is fully effective.
As mentioned already in my Certina report, the new Powermatic 80 selfwinding movement makes its appearance also in the Tissot line. Compared with the former, one notices the Tissot’s nicer finish on the movement and especially the rotor. the Tissot Luxury Automatic Chronometer has a highly elegant and classic dial layout, and an unusually refined steel case, with a unique structure on its sides. While also the dial of the Tissot appears to be better finished than that of the cheaper Certina, I think the location of the date window at 6 of the Certina DS was the aesthetically better choice than the position at 3 of the Tissot. Additionally, due to the movement dimension, the date window is placed rather far within the dial, which is also more obvious on the Tissot than on the Certina.
The new ETA C07.111 movement is based on the well-known ETA 2824, but was completely rebuilt with a long power reserve of 80 hours in mind. To achieve not only this long reserve, but also a steady accuracy rate over this time, ETA reduced the oscillation frequency of the balance to 3 Hertz (21,600 A/h), and developed a new index-less escapement regulation. For the limited anniversary series, the movements were submitted to the chronometer certification to the COSC.
Not only the gentlemen can enjoy the new movement, but the Powermatic 80 is also offered in the ladies’ series.
Another novelty of the ETA, that is exclusively delivered to specific subsidiaries of the Swatch Group, is the modification of the 2824 with several options for asymmetric dial layouts. Various “wheelwork kits” permit the relocation of dial indications relative to the crown: While Hamilton gets an asymmetric regulator dial, Tissot offers an asymmetric small second in its Le Locle line ...
... and this interesting new member of its Couturier line, with a small hours and minutes display at 1, small seconds 7, and date at 9. I think this is an extremely nice watch, but also believe it to be somewhat spoiled by the unworthy rose gold PVD coating. An honest steel case would have been the better choice.
Also new is the PRS 516 Extreme chronograph. While the 516 always has been a somewhat nostalgic sports chronograph, the new version boasts with countless small design details, like the multiple red T integrated on the hands, the strip date with frame, cover glass and allen screwheads, etc. etc. Altogether, this results in a somewhat overloaded appearance.
Until now, the PRS 516 chronograph was still equipped with the ETA/Valjoux 7750 movement, but with the new Extreme, this model line, too, executed the switch to the much cheaper and simpler cal. ETA C01.211 movement, that was originally developed for the Swatch automatic chronographs. It is easily identifiable by its 6 hours counter at 6.
The same movement is used in the massive and very modern designed T-Race Moto GP limited edition chronograph.
Let us step away again from the plastic parts movements to some really interesting and nice novelties from Tissot: First, there is a strikingly beautiful re-edition of a classic Tissot, the Heritage Navigator. Available in stainless steel and 18k pink gold, this limited edition features a pure world timer dial, with a city names disk rotating in the center, and fine Dauphin hands. It is powered by the ETA 2893-1 GMT movement. This Tissot is a favourite of mine, since it has perfect proportions, not too large, and nicely thin.
The second specialty is the T-Complication Squelette. If you associate the term “Skeletonized movement” with masterly handcrafted movement plates and bridges, cautiously reduced until as much material as possible is removed, while retaining just enough of the structure to assure technical stability, then this watch is nothing for you. The times of a Kurt Schaffo or Armin Strom as masters of skeleton movements seem to be over, at least, this is the impression one has when looking at the modern CNC jigsaw movements that have become increasingly popular and are also marketed as “skeleton” movements.
While this new Tissot has nothing to do with that special art of manually skeletonizing an existing movement, it is nevertheless a highly attractive, modern interpretation of a structurally transparent hand-winding movement. The famous Unitas 6497 Lépine was produced in a specially skeletonized version, with attractive holes and gaps wherever they look nice and permit interesting views of the movement components. Complemented it is by blued hands and screws.
The last specialty I want to show is the Tissot I liked most; less as a timepiece as such, since I would barely wear it, but because it was made. In a time when the younger generation is increasingly replacing the wristwatch with the time display on the smartphones, Tissot decided to make a pocket watch. Not a full-grown pocket watch for men, with tons of complications, but a small, golden pocket watch for ladies, adorned with enamelled patterns on the front and back of the yellow golden case and seven diamonds, the Tissot Pendant 1878.
I mean, did anybody expect such a watch, from a major brand as Tissot? Did anybody expect a major industrial group like Swatch to shell out money for something like this? Together with other novelties, as the Swatch System 51, pieces like the Pendant 1878 make me believe that the Swatch Group belongs to the important “out-of-the-box-thinkers” in the watch industry. As long as they do not simply follow established fashions, but emphasise the unconventional, even if this means the - temporary - return to age-old shapes and products, I think the business will successfully get on. I am glad to see Tissot being a driving force behind this development.
This message has been edited by Marcus Hanke on 2013-05-26 11:15:28
This message has been edited by Marcus Hanke on 2013-05-27 02:18:51 This message has been edited by Marcus Hanke on 2013-05-28 22:58:05
Comments:
amanico May 26th, 2013-11:26
Well the Tissot Navigator is a re re edition rather than a re edition. As Tissot re edited this watch in a LE of I don't remember how many pieces in the 90ies. But I do agree that it is a nice watch, very nice. Any idea of the diameter of the case? The other which has some interest is the so called skeleted, which I see more...
Marcus Hanke May 26th, 2013-11:30
Navigator case diameter ... ... Unfortunately I have no exact list of specifications, but I believe it to be some 42mm wide. Regards, Marcus
amanico May 26th, 2013-11:55
Which is much more than the original and the former re edition. I have to see it in the flesh, though... Best, and thanks for the information. Nicolas.
Marcus Hanke May 26th, 2013-11:57
And which made it a wise decision to dispense with the date window -nt nt
timerider May 28th, 2013-12:58
I agree that no date is a good date on this piece. The Navigator is already gaining high interest in the US and particularly in Northern California. S. Francisco is the chosen city instead of Los Angeles for our time zone and that is a rare commodity(due to the past edition when San Francisco was still th...
foversta May 27th, 2013-14:07
I found the watch too big. It is a pity because it is a very worthy re-interpretation. I found its dial pretty convincing. Fx ...
cazalea May 28th, 2013-07:21
I like this watch a lot So are there gold and steel, white dial and black dial alternatives? Do the main hands run on a 12 hour lap, or 24 hour? Thanks Cazalea
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Bill
A fresh new look
Bill
Please welcome the new look and pardon our dust. The old one is still there on the right side menu if you still which to use it. Enjoy the weekend. Best Bill This message has been edited by AnthonyTsai on 2013-05-24 10:17:00 .
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