The original JB 200 is not a watch like any other: it is one of the rare diving watches that were officially provided to the French Navy in the 80s. The idea of reissuing this historic model was born in Jacques Bianchi's mind last spring. At more than 80 years of age, Jacques Bianchi is one of the people who have contributed to forging Marseille's artisanal heritage. And needless to say, he has kept all the energy and dynamism of his best days. Launching a reissue project is never easy, especially when this project is part of a more ambitious approach, which consists in relaunching a brand in order to avoid being confined to a style exercise with no future. The success of such an undertaking lies above all in the ability to bring together a talented team, and this is what Jacques Bianchi has done. Jacques Bianchi relies on Fabrice Pougez, the creator of MAT Watches, who has contributed all his know-how in product development and manufacturing, brand building and knowledge of the industry's players and subcontractors. Let's not forget that MAT Watches has built its reputation and expertise in the field of military watches, some of which have equipped special forces. There was a convergence of passion and specialties between the two partners that made their meeting inevitable. Simo Tber joined this duo, particularly in charge of communication and digitalization, activities that are indispensable in today's watchmaking world, especially when the first stage of marketing is carried out through a Kickstarter campaign. Let's not forget Paul Miquel's role in the project as his research on the history of the JB 200, the evidence of its endowment and the identification of the military divers who used it have been extremely valuable. This is how three different generations came together around a common project: the effective rebirth of the JB 200.

The original JB 200 was powered by a quartz movement and had a date window at 6 o'clock. The good news is that the reissue is equipped with a self-winding calibre and that the date window has been removed. As a matter of fact, a reissue is not necessarily a reinterpretation... in a worse way of the original model. One can find better and it is the case here! These two main modifications position the reissue of the JB 200 in a more watchmaking dimension while respecting the character traits of the original model.

Because, the JB 200 does not lack character!  The first element that catches the eye is obviously the silhouette of the large diver (reading his watch) that crosses the dial and connects the index at 8 o'clock to the one at 2 o'clock. This diver makes the JB 200 identifiable at first glance and almost single-handedly creates the identity of the watch. The finishing of the dial is excellent for the price. The diver is executed with precision and to the naked eye, the rendering is irreproachable. The back of the dial is slightly grained. The luminescent indexes, which alternate discs and rectangles with the traditional inverted triangle at the top, use a Superluminova with an ivory tint that appears close to white or cream depending on the light conditions. Their colour is identical to that of the hands and the whole is very pleasing to the eye as it defines a harmonious and balanced dial. In order to preserve this chromatic coherence, the Superluminova of the unidirectional bezel with black insert is identical to that of the dial. It is to be noted that the handling of the bezel is a little bit firm but at least it is not taken in error from the point of view of safety. The legibility is excellent and the diver knows how to be discreet behind the luminescent components. The minute hand is clearly distinguishable from the hour hand thanks to its pointed end and I appreciate the rectangular lollipop-type second hand.

The second characteristic element of the JB 200 is the steel "destro" type case. The proportions have evolved compared to the original model. Not the diameter out of the crown which remains equal to 42mm but the integration of an automatic movement, thicker than a quartz movement, obliged to redesign the shape of the case and notably those of the middle part and the lugs. The result is very convincing. The watch is a little bit thick (13,3mm) but this height of the case is logical in the context of an automatic diving watch with a 200 meter water resistance. Moreover, the work on the design has allowed to define a fluid style not devoid of curves. I even found a touch of "bio design" in the curves that accompany the crown guard and the lugs. The case remains bulky but does not seem massive. Moreover, the observation of the case middle part allows to clearly distinguish the 3 parts (back, middle part and bezel) which breaks the feeling of thickness.

The third element that plays an important role in the aesthetics of the watch is the "mirror polished" flange. It makes the watch more luminous, plays with the indexes and accentuates the volume effects. I really liked this flange because it brings a touch of originality while remaining discreet.

The movement that equips the reissue of the JB 200 is therefore an automatic calibre. It is a Seiko NH35 movement which is extremely well known. Using such a movement in the context of a watch initially marketed via a Kickstarter campaign is an asset because its wide distribution and its reliability give confidence. Its power reserve is around 40 hours for a frequency of 3hz. The manual winding is done by turning the crown downwards, considering its position at 9 o'clock. So, certainly, the movement is Japanese but its assembly is made in Franche-Comté while the controls are made in Marseille.

The reissue of the JB 200 uses a black Tropic rubber strap. I found it very comfortable and pleasant to the skin. It has a long length, logical in the spirit of a diving watch. It is however easy to replace it by another strap because the lugs are standard (20mm) and because it is equipped with quick release spring bars. In any case, it keeps the watch firmly on the wrist which is very important considering the size of the case.

The case back has an engraving of the MAT Watches logo. This detail also gives confidence. The implication of Fabrice Pougez proves the seriousness of the manufacturing and I felt in the perceived quality of the prototype all his know-how.

The new JB 200 will be marketed initially through the Kickstarter campaign which has started on June 15. The introductory price is 594 euros (including VAT) (the commercial final price will be 990 euros), which gives the watch an excellent quality-price ratio. In any case, I really appreciated the work done. The watch is very carefully made and I know that a lot of attention has been paid to it, such as the point by point design of the numbers on the bezel. I sincerely believe that the campaign is an excellent opportunity to acquire a sincere watch, made by passionate professionals and which is part of a historical and legitimate context. It gives in any case the possibility to wear a part of the history of French diving watches and I almost feel like saying: a symbol of the city of Marseille.

Pris:

+ a sincere and legitimate watch

+ a qualitative product considering the price

+ the finishing of the dial and the case

+ the mirror polished flange which makes the dial luminous

Cons:

- the bezel is a bit hard to handle

- the crown at 9 o'clock makes its handling a bit more delicate

Fr.Xavier