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Review: A dizzy view on Diving Watches from the Fifties.

amanico
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All is here, summed in one or two pictures, or almost.

 The roots of Diving Watches have to be searched in the Fifites, and the brands which set the fundamentals of what are our modern toolwatches are represented here:

 Blancpain and the Fifty Fathoms,  and Rolex with the Submariner, of course... Since 1953.

 Then, the others: Tudior, Omega, Breitling, Jaeger Lecoultre, Zenith, Longines, and even Breguet, the great brands of that era wanted to play the underwater game.

 The cards of this game are simple:

 An automatic movement, to preserve the seal between the crown and the case, a turning bezel, a legible dial under all light conditions.
 
Then some found some improvements: The screw in crown ( Rolex ),  or the Alarm ( Jaeger-Lecoultre ).

 An exception to the basic rules of the Diving watch: Jaeger Lecoultre, whose bezel was not turning, the diving being timed by the alarm...

 Here is my personal conception of the infernal tower. 6 are missing, though: The JLC European Deep Sea Alarm, the Tudor 7922, the Breitling Superocean Chronograph, the Breguet, the Longines Nautilus Skin Diver, and the Zenith S 58.

 I still have to hunt the 5 last ones, for my biggest pleasure, but even without them, the show is pure dizziness.

 From the top to the bottom: Tudor 7924; Rolex 5508, Omega CK 2913, Breitling Superocean, Lecoultre Deep Sea Alarm ( US ), Blancpain Early Milspec and Blancpain Early Rotomatic Incabloc: 

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The good thing with a stack is that it allows you to immediately see, notice the differences between the watches.

 Here,  mostly the case, the bezel, the crown, and the plexy.

 - The crowns, from what you can see can be small, too small, like on the Breitling Superocean, which is fastidious, very fastidious to wind, or big, very big, like on the Tudor 7924, which is a pure element of coolness and desirability.

 The size goes from 5 to 8 mm, and each extra millemeter makes a huge difference. The stack brings a brilliant demonstration, here.

 - The case is a much more important detail than we could think.

 Here we have all kind of sizes, from 37 mm ( Superocean ) to 41 mm ( The Fifty Fathoms ), with an average 38 mm ( Rolex and Tudor ), but also all kind of thickness, the champion being the Tudor, here with something like 15 mm while the king of thinness is, withlut doubt, the Superocean.

 More than the numbers, which is interesting with a stack is that it shows the true character of a watch.

 We have some refined competitors, such as the Superocean, the Omega CK 2913 or the Lecoultre Deep Sea Alarm, these last two sharing the same case ( Huguenin Frères ).

 The profile of these 3 watches, and their beveled lugs, is almost scultptural, which would make a Fifty Fathoms or a Rolex / Tudor look normal! 

The Rolex 5508 looks elegant, with its thin case, while the Tudor is the king of machos, without any doubt.

 The Fifty Fathoms have a more " basic " case. After all, they were designed as toolwatches for divers, and that was the most important point.

 You will notice that the Milspec has a microbillé case, which is unique for a diving watch from the Fifties, as far as I remember...

 - As for the bezel, same differences among the brands. An element of style which goes with the character of the watch.

 As previously written, the form and the functions are closely linked: The bezel is a tool, so it has to be luminous and to turn.

 Which is, undisputably the case for the Rolex / Tudor and the Blancpain watches.

 We have some particular examples, here....

 The Omega, with its very thin bezel, is very elegant,  but practical?

 The Breitling, with its funny concave bezel is beautiful, but efficient?

 And what to say about the non turning bezel of the Lecoultre / Jaeger-Lecoultre Deep SEa Alarm? Cool, but not useful at all, as the time was measured though the alarm, not through the bezel.

 - Last point, the Plexy.

 Each of these watches has its plexy, differently shaped. But we can say that, basically, there are two schools, here: The slightly domed, and the hyper domed plexys.

 For the distortion, there is nothing worse than the hyper domed, but in terms of sensuality and coolness, it wins, by far.

 If you are not convinced, have a look at the Rolex / Tudor Big Crowns...

 More sensual than elegant, the hyper domed plexy has an inconvenient: It adds some important height to an already thick case.

 But it may also be seen as part of its coolness.

 Anyway, I hope that you are now convinced that a stack is not only a kind of show off or dangerous game for immature adult ( what I am, by the way... none  ) but most of all a delicious and very interesting way to enhance the differences which may exist between our beloved watches, even when they belong to a same category or Family.

 Looking forward to reading your comments and thoughts,

 Best.

 Nicolas.


Comments:
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Joepny April 30th, 2017-06:22
Great post and you definitely should add more pictures of the stack from all angles I think this gives us all an idea of the limited playground that manufacturers have to deal with when they create a watch. The dfferences are in mm. And the other thought is Rolex has not changed much from vintage to modern whereas Breitling & Blancpa... 
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amanico April 30th, 2017-12:14
Omega is in between. A faithful reiteration, and a more modern one. I agree on the rest.  
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MichaelC April 30th, 2017-06:25
JENGA! That was the first thought. Now, for my more mature observations, that is a great way to illustrate the differences. I would like another shot from the strap side if you have one, shot half way up. This will help with the plexy shapes. Very interesting to see the different bezel det... 
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amanico April 30th, 2017-12:15
My pleasure, Michael. Sadly, I don't have other stack pictures of these watches.  
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HSTE April 30th, 2017-06:47
Wonderful stack of grail watches my friend. Fantastic to see the cases side-by-side (or should I say top-on-top). My favorite is the Breitling for its weird design/bezel shape, the DSA and the BP FF's. Great post! Cheers, HSTE
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amanico April 30th, 2017-12:17
The Breitling is certainly special. I agree on that. I wrote this article some 5 years ago, and added some more watches in my collection... I will publish another article, a giant one, later this year, or next year. Fasten your seat belt. All the best, my friend. Nicolas
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hs111 April 30th, 2017-07:06
Waaooaahh !.. What a Helluva post.. I'm inclined to call it seminal, yet comprehensive, finally very interesting + educational ! :)( Actually, when reading I went back & forth between the written words, the spirit & message behind and the pics of these ominous stacks ! One of your posts, I have again bookmarked ! I found the division for the various discussion points, such as case, bez... 
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amanico April 30th, 2017-13:17
And better, to collect. Vintage diving watches is a huge and exciting theme.  
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kev09 April 30th, 2017-07:47
Great post. Fascinating to see them stacked like that and to have the sometimes very subtle differences pointed out. What occurs to me when I see these vintage beauties shown together is which one was the best for diving. What I mean by that is that they were all des... 
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amanico April 30th, 2017-13:19
The important point was the screwed crown. Rolex was a precursor in that domain. I will explain all that in a deeper way in another article to come.  
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